Best short arm kit
12-11-2013, 03:19 PM
#1
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Best short arm kit
What is the best short arm lift kit.I just traded in my 09 rubicon for a 14 I ran a o.m.e 2.5 with 35 km2. This time around I am looking to do a full suspension with all the links the. The 2.5 wasn't enough hight the underneath of my Jeep got hammered from the rocks. I think I want to go 4 in I kept my 35s was considering the Currie Rock jock kit with maybee fox shocks
12-11-2013, 03:57 PM
#2
What is the best short arm lift kit.I just traded in my 09 rubicon for a 14 I ran a o.m.e 2.5 with 35 km2. This time around I am looking to do a full suspension with all the links the. The 2.5 wasn't enough hight the underneath of my Jeep got hammered from the rocks. I think I want to go 4 in I kept my 35s was considering the Currie Rock jock kit with maybee fox shocks
I think I'm leaning towards the RK 3.5 max flex lift as it comes with everything needed except shocks a bump stops. Flip kit, all arms, extend lines, track bars are all included. May throw in a 1" tf spacer if I don't get the clearance I need. Have read that the fox shocks complement the lift nicely.
12-11-2013, 04:25 PM
#4
JK Jedi
Imo best and a kit don't go together. If you know what your doing you can build a better setup than any kit will provide and it will suit your specific vehicle setup.
Last edited by Maertz; 12-12-2013 at 05:25 AM.
12-11-2013, 04:57 PM
#5
Forum Tech Advisor
It depends on your budget, your intended use on and off road, the weight of your rig, whether you tow or carry heavy loads, whether you prefer a "sporty" ride or a soft ride, and whether you still have enough money in your budget to do drivetrain upgrades, regearing, etc.
12-11-2013, 05:34 PM
#6
JK Enthusiast
It depends on your budget, your intended use on and off road, the weight of your rig, whether you tow or carry heavy loads, whether you prefer a "sporty" ride or a soft ride, and whether you still have enough money in your budget to do drivetrain upgrades, regearing, etc.
Last edited by Roryslife; 12-11-2013 at 05:40 PM.
12-11-2013, 05:53 PM
#7
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Plenty of money,,, rock krawling,, nice ride,,, clear anything from 35's to 40's,,, if money isn't the issue I would not stay with a short arm. Rebel Off Road makes a nice coilover kit I have wheeled with and in,,, very nice product! However,, there are a ton of great options out there,, if it were me it would be a choice between the Rebel, RK, or Metalcloak. I'm sure you can find 20 guys to agree with me,, and 20 to disagree. Good luck!
Last edited by big dr; 12-11-2013 at 07:03 PM.
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12-11-2013, 06:53 PM
#8
Forum Tech Advisor
Build with 35s:
Flat flares, with a little trimming of the rear fender well pinch seam and a front stubby bumper.
4.5" backspaced wheels.
Old Man Emu long travel shocks from Northridge4x4. They are 11.5" travel shocks that are fairly soft riding. The fronts are 16" collapsed and 27.5" extended. The rears are 16.5" collapsed and 28" extended.
You can run these shocks with 1.25" front extended bumpstops. JKS has front extended bumpstops that size that bolt to the lower coil perches.
I'd run EVO RockStar skids (or similar) on the rear axle that relocate the rear lower shock mounts up about 1.5" and provide more ground clearance.
With the RockStar skids, the rear OME LT shocks need about 2.5" extended bumpstops. I'd either do Rock Krawler weld-on adjustables or Teraflex 2.5" rear bolt on bumpstops.
I'd run JKS front and rear adjustable sway bar links if I had a Rubi front electronic disconnect system, or I'd run front and rear Currie Anti-Rock sway bars.
I'd need brakelines long enough for about a 5"-6" lift. I'd probably buy Crowns.
I'd probably run either Rock Krawler 2.5" triple rate coils or Metal Cloak 2.5" dual rate coils. I'd talk with Jeremy (Rock Krawler) and Matsonian (Metal Cloak) about whether I would net 2.5" with the weight of my rig with their coils. I'd also want to know if there would be a coil bind problem only running 1.25" front extended bumpstops.
I'd run rear lower coil retainers. Currie or JKS would be fine.
I'd run Teraflex front and rear adjustable track bars.
I'd run either Currie or Rock Krawler control arms--all 8.
I'd weld gussets to the front axle side trackbar bracket and do a JKS rear weld-on axle side bracket brace.
This setup would allow all 11.5" front and rear shock travel, with the lowest required extended bumpstops without further relocation of shock mounts, and with stock control arm mounting locations.
Why not more than 2.5"-3" lift? Steering, taller required extended bumpstops, and needed front shock relocation.
The closer you get to 4", the more you want a drag link flip kit for steering correction. Drag link flip kits require at least 3" front extended bumpstops--unless you are willing to cut and notch the frame. 3" front extended bumpstops are almost enough to run 40s and way too much for 37s and smaller with flat flares. To use all of 11.5" shock travel, the lower front shock mounts would need to be relocated almost 2".
What about with 37s? Same build, but I'd want 3.5" backspaced wheels so I wouldn't have to limit my steering as much. I'd need to trim the radius (front and rear) of the rear fender well pinch seams to run 37s with 2.5" rear extended bumpstops and flat flares.
What if I wanted more of a "go-fast" jeep? I'd install Teraflex SpeedBumps, and I'd use Fox or King remote reservoir shocks. I'd truss both front and rear axles. I'd run 3.5" springs so that I had more up-travel.
What if I wanted more clearance? I'd run Poison Spyder BFH front and rear bumpers that require trimming the frame horns, and I'd run larger tires instead of a taller lift.
12-11-2013, 07:00 PM
#9
JK Enthusiast
Dirtman's sticky thread that was meant to reduce these kinds of threads, but I'll go ahead and answer what I would do with your parameters.
Build with 35s:
Flat flares, with a little trimming of the rear fender well pinch seam and a front stubby bumper.
4.5" backspaced wheels.
Old Man Emu long travel shocks from Northridge4x4. They are 11.5" travel shocks that are fairly soft riding. The fronts are 16" collapsed and 27.5" extended. The rears are 16.5" collapsed and 28" extended.
You can run these shocks with 1.25" front extended bumpstops. JKS has front extended bumpstops that size that bolt to the lower coil perches.
I'd run EVO RockStar skids (or similar) on the rear axle that relocate the rear lower shock mounts up about 1.5" and provide more ground clearance.
With the RockStar skids, the rear OME LT shocks need about 2.5" extended bumpstops. I'd either do Rock Krawler weld-on adjustables or Teraflex 2.5" rear bolt on bumpstops.
I'd run JKS front and rear adjustable sway bar links if I had a Rubi front electronic disconnect system, or I'd run front and rear Currie Anti-Rock sway bars.
I'd need brakelines long enough for about a 5"-6" lift. I'd probably buy Crowns.
I'd probably run either Rock Krawler 2.5" triple rate coils or Metal Cloak 2.5" dual rate coils. I'd talk with Jeremy (Rock Krawler) and Matsonian (Metal Cloak) about whether I would net 2.5" with the weight of my rig with their coils. I'd also want to know if there would be a coil bind problem only running 1.25" front extended bumpstops.
I'd run rear lower coil retainers. Currie or JKS would be fine.
I'd run Teraflex front and rear adjustable track bars.
I'd run either Currie or Rock Krawler control arms--all 8.
I'd weld gussets to the front axle side trackbar bracket and do a JKS rear weld-on axle side bracket brace.
This setup would allow all 11.5" front and rear shock travel, with the lowest required extended bumpstops without further relocation of shock mounts, and with stock control arm mounting locations.
Why not more than 2.5"-3" lift? Steering, taller required extended bumpstops, and needed front shock relocation.
The closer you get to 4", the more you want a drag link flip kit for steering correction. Drag link flip kits require at least 3" front extended bumpstops--unless you are willing to cut and notch the frame. 3" front extended bumpstops are almost enough to run 40s and way too much for 37s and smaller with flat flares. To use all of 11.5" shock travel, the lower front shock mounts would need to be relocated almost 2".
What about with 37s? Same build, but I'd want 3.5" backspaced wheels so I wouldn't have to limit my steering as much. I'd need to trim the radius (front and rear) of the rear fender well pinch seams to run 37s with 2.5" rear extended bumpstops and flat flares.
What if I wanted more of a "go-fast" jeep? I'd install Teraflex SpeedBumps, and I'd use Fox or King remote reservoir shocks. I'd truss both front and rear axles. I'd run 3.5" springs so that I had more up-travel.
What if I wanted more clearance? I'd run Poison Spyder BFH front and rear bumpers that require trimming the frame horns, and I'd run larger tires instead of a taller lift.
12-11-2013, 07:42 PM
#10
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Join Date: Dec 2013
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Dirtman's sticky thread that was meant to reduce these kinds of threads, but I'll go ahead and answer what I would do with your parameters.
Build with 35s:
Flat flares, with a little trimming of the rear fender well pinch seam and a front stubby bumper.
4.5" backspaced wheels.
Old Man Emu long travel shocks from Northridge4x4. They are 11.5" travel shocks that are fairly soft riding. The fronts are 16" collapsed and 27.5" extended. The rears are 16.5" collapsed and 28" extended.
You can run these shocks with 1.25" front extended bumpstops. JKS has front extended bumpstops that size that bolt to the lower coil perches.
I'd run EVO RockStar skids (or similar) on the rear axle that relocate the rear lower shock mounts up about 1.5" and provide more ground clearance.
With the RockStar skids, the rear OME LT shocks need about 2.5" extended bumpstops. I'd either do Rock Krawler weld-on adjustables or Teraflex 2.5" rear bolt on bumpstops.
I'd run JKS front and rear adjustable sway bar links if I had a Rubi front electronic disconnect system, or I'd run front and rear Currie Anti-Rock sway bars.
I'd need brakelines long enough for about a 5"-6" lift. I'd probably buy Crowns.
I'd probably run either Rock Krawler 2.5" triple rate coils or Metal Cloak 2.5" dual rate coils. I'd talk with Jeremy (Rock Krawler) and Matsonian (Metal Cloak) about whether I would net 2.5" with the weight of my rig with their coils. I'd also want to know if there would be a coil bind problem only running 1.25" front extended bumpstops.
I'd run rear lower coil retainers. Currie or JKS would be fine.
I'd run Teraflex front and rear adjustable track bars.
I'd run either Currie or Rock Krawler control arms--all 8.
I'd weld gussets to the front axle side trackbar bracket and do a JKS rear weld-on axle side bracket brace.
This setup would allow all 11.5" front and rear shock travel, with the lowest required extended bumpstops without further relocation of shock mounts, and with stock control arm mounting locations.
Why not more than 2.5"-3" lift? Steering, taller required extended bumpstops, and needed front shock relocation.
The closer you get to 4", the more you want a drag link flip kit for steering correction. Drag link flip kits require at least 3" front extended bumpstops--unless you are willing to cut and notch the frame. 3" front extended bumpstops are almost enough to run 40s and way too much for 37s and smaller with flat flares. To use all of 11.5" shock travel, the lower front shock mounts would need to be relocated almost 2".
What about with 37s? Same build, but I'd want 3.5" backspaced wheels so I wouldn't have to limit my steering as much. I'd need to trim the radius (front and rear) of the rear fender well pinch seams to run 37s with 2.5" rear extended bumpstops and flat flares.
What if I wanted more of a "go-fast" jeep? I'd install Teraflex SpeedBumps, and I'd use Fox or King remote reservoir shocks. I'd truss both front and rear axles. I'd run 3.5" springs so that I had more up-travel.
What if I wanted more clearance? I'd run Poison Spyder BFH front and rear bumpers that require trimming the frame horns, and I'd run larger tires instead of a taller lift.
Build with 35s:
Flat flares, with a little trimming of the rear fender well pinch seam and a front stubby bumper.
4.5" backspaced wheels.
Old Man Emu long travel shocks from Northridge4x4. They are 11.5" travel shocks that are fairly soft riding. The fronts are 16" collapsed and 27.5" extended. The rears are 16.5" collapsed and 28" extended.
You can run these shocks with 1.25" front extended bumpstops. JKS has front extended bumpstops that size that bolt to the lower coil perches.
I'd run EVO RockStar skids (or similar) on the rear axle that relocate the rear lower shock mounts up about 1.5" and provide more ground clearance.
With the RockStar skids, the rear OME LT shocks need about 2.5" extended bumpstops. I'd either do Rock Krawler weld-on adjustables or Teraflex 2.5" rear bolt on bumpstops.
I'd run JKS front and rear adjustable sway bar links if I had a Rubi front electronic disconnect system, or I'd run front and rear Currie Anti-Rock sway bars.
I'd need brakelines long enough for about a 5"-6" lift. I'd probably buy Crowns.
I'd probably run either Rock Krawler 2.5" triple rate coils or Metal Cloak 2.5" dual rate coils. I'd talk with Jeremy (Rock Krawler) and Matsonian (Metal Cloak) about whether I would net 2.5" with the weight of my rig with their coils. I'd also want to know if there would be a coil bind problem only running 1.25" front extended bumpstops.
I'd run rear lower coil retainers. Currie or JKS would be fine.
I'd run Teraflex front and rear adjustable track bars.
I'd run either Currie or Rock Krawler control arms--all 8.
I'd weld gussets to the front axle side trackbar bracket and do a JKS rear weld-on axle side bracket brace.
This setup would allow all 11.5" front and rear shock travel, with the lowest required extended bumpstops without further relocation of shock mounts, and with stock control arm mounting locations.
Why not more than 2.5"-3" lift? Steering, taller required extended bumpstops, and needed front shock relocation.
The closer you get to 4", the more you want a drag link flip kit for steering correction. Drag link flip kits require at least 3" front extended bumpstops--unless you are willing to cut and notch the frame. 3" front extended bumpstops are almost enough to run 40s and way too much for 37s and smaller with flat flares. To use all of 11.5" shock travel, the lower front shock mounts would need to be relocated almost 2".
What about with 37s? Same build, but I'd want 3.5" backspaced wheels so I wouldn't have to limit my steering as much. I'd need to trim the radius (front and rear) of the rear fender well pinch seams to run 37s with 2.5" rear extended bumpstops and flat flares.
What if I wanted more of a "go-fast" jeep? I'd install Teraflex SpeedBumps, and I'd use Fox or King remote reservoir shocks. I'd truss both front and rear axles. I'd run 3.5" springs so that I had more up-travel.
What if I wanted more clearance? I'd run Poison Spyder BFH front and rear bumpers that require trimming the frame horns, and I'd run larger tires instead of a taller lift.