Dlampe

I am expecting delivery of my new Jeep in a month or so and I really want to do it "right" this time. I don't get to wheel as much as I would like and when I do I don't do things that could prevent me from diving it home. Honestly, I spend more time in the drivers seat with a tie on dreaming about joining some of you on the great trips you all talk about. I spend a few weeks every year camping in the the mountains and have done some great trails but most days I'm just running down the highway.

This conversation started in my head when I ran over a speed bump last week and it felt like I had NO suspension! I have read a lot of threads about the "best lift" and have watched countless videos from AEV, teraflex etc.. Everyone seems to to have a different theory and also build lifts to accomplish the objective in a different way.

Here's what I Am looking for and I'm hoping to start a discussion about how to achieve it. I want a 4inch lift + or - .5. I like the look of more air between the tires than I currently have with my 3 inch lift. I will be running a 35 inch tire and I want to have a great ride on the road and on the Colorado fire trials and mountain passes. Right now my jeep feels like a skateboard on those mountain roads even at 10 psi in the tires! So I want to talk about suspension geometry, spring design, shock tuning and tires. I feel like once understand these components and how they effect ride, I can find the lift that is the best compromise.

Suspension Geometry - I am interested in the high steer kits and I already have a beefy track bar but what about AEV's claim that the trailing arms need to be closer to the stock angle and not angled down? I don't see a lot of other kits addressing this issue. Is it an issue and if it is, how big? Could you feel the difference? I guess what I'm trying to discover is whether or not the AEV drop brackets are so important that it's worth sacrificing the ground clearance. Those brackets don't look that strong either. I'm open to any other thoughts on suspension geometry as well.

Spring design - linear, progressive, dual rate or triple rate? Again, keeping in mind my intended use, which direction would you go? If the progressive and dual rate springs just coil bind on the first two or three coils why mess with it? Do they actually bind running down the road? I really need some help understanding spring theory.

Shocks - Some claim to tune their springs, some have external reservoirs some are adjustable but which one is the one that will smooth out my ride and meet my needs the best? Are the shocks more responsible for the ride quality or the springs? How much does it really matter that they are tuned for the kit you buy? A lot of kits don't even sell springs with the system.

Finally tires - how does the tire construction affect the ride? Sidewalls can be C, D or E on the tires we all say are the "best". Does that effect the ride more than the other variables because they are "where the rubber meets the road"? I know air pressure is a big deal but does the other stuff matter in a measurable way?

I'm asking a lot but I hope the discussion is useful and having it all in one place might help. I already have a new front drive shaft as well but forgot to mention it.

TeraFlex

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V_Qp7L_eTqU&list=UUhC22VXvlD0W0W--qtUaPtQ Here's a video about all the different types of coils out there for a JK.

To run 35's, all you need is a TeraFlex 2.5" or 3" coil lift. Keep in mind that some companies suggest a 4" lift for 35's. So there is a little variance out there.

Honestly a high steer kit isn't really needed for a 3" but some like to have it.

Suggestion:
TeraFlex 3" kit w/ front lower & rear upper adjustable control arms, Adj front trackbar

Feel free to give me a call and chat about this.

Joe@TeraFlex 801-713-2301

afpilot82

Have you read through the "My thoughts on lifts" thread yet? If not, that should be your first stop.

TxJeepers

Old man Emu 4" kit
Aev front geo brackets instead of the OME cam bolts
Tf, mc, synergy or other top shelf brand rear uppers instead of one cam bolts
Coast or whomever 1310 front driveshaft
Call it a day

Old man emu springs and shocks are hard to beat for daily driving and yet still perform great offroad. I know from experience. I have mc springs now with OME shocks and although the mc are awesome I think I liked the ride on OME better.

Baddkarmaracing

this is the only place I have any real input for you the rest of it I am trying to learn also lol

C,D,E refers to the load range of the tire, the higher the letter the higher the load range and because of that the tire will be stiffer and make the ride worse typically. now tire pressure will also affect the ride quality, some load range D and E tires you will have to run below the recommended pressure for the tire, my tires call for 45psi but if I run that it is really rough, I have dropped it to 30psi and the ride is a lot better, I haven't driven enough at 30 to see that the tire wear is going to be normal or not but at the recommended pressure it was wearing the middle of the tire

MOPWR2U

If you want the "best" lift, you're going to have to address steering caster, driveline angles, and control arm geometry, in addition to the suspension. Nobody wants the best lift though, they just say that they do. Then when they find out what is needed to have the best they say, oh, I didn't mean that. For 4" to 5" of lift, to have correct pinion angle and caster, you're going to need a new front axle with increased caster. You can get one from Teraflex, Currie, or Dynatrac, to name a few. You should also plan on a new front driveshaft. And to have correct control arm geometry with that much lift you'll need either a long arm lift, or control arm drop brackets from AEV or Rancho. Yes, you can do the lift without all those parts, but it wont be the "best" lift. And you said you wanted the best lift, not a half assed lift that handles like a skate board.

Dlampe

You're right. that's what I want. I just want to understand how it all goes together and why some parts are needed. I'm not convinced I need an axle to get the caster right. I don't need the strength of an aftermarket axle, just the correct geometry. I have also read Dirtman's thread on suspension and it is fantastic! A truly must read. I know I can have a rig much more capable than I am with less lift but I like the look of the taller lift. I just want to fully explore that possibility before I go a different direction. I don't mind spending money on a lift but I don't want to spend recklessly and hope it works because it cost a lot of money!

MOPWR2U

I tend to agree with your taller lift plans. I went the minimal 2 1/2" lift LCG route with a 2010 and 2012 Jk, then a 3 1/2" lift with a 2013, and with my 2014. The taller lifts work better for general back country exploring. You have more suspension travel, or at least more up-travel, which smooths the ride out considerably. But like you say, it needs to be done right.

For optimal handling I like to increase width two inches for every inch that height is increased. On my Jeep I have a Teraflex 3" lift, which on a two door JK is really a 4" lift, and I have three inches of additional height by changing from 29" tires to 35" tires. But I also have axles that have a 68.5" width, and wheels with 4 1/2" backspacing, so my total width is at 82" right now.

With 4"+ lift, your caster is going to decrease in order to get the correct pinion angle. Adding caster is doing it right, decreasing caster is doing it wrong. I've done it both ways, and this Jeep has a Dynatrac front axle with increased caster. It drives much better than a Jeep with a stock front axle. It drives better than a stock JK with no lift, in fact.

Flattening out the control arms in front helps with ride quality significantly. It really decreases the harshness felt on square edged bumps. Long arm suspensions also help in this regard, but no more than the control arm brackets.

Anyway, that is just a couple of things I think need to be considered if you want to do it right. There is a lot more to be said about this, but I'll let someone else say it.

Maertz

You don't "need" a new axle for 4" lift. I ran 4.5 perfectly fine. Also you could do camber wedges or adjustable ball joints for significantly less....

Dlampe

I have spoken to quite few forum members and a few sponsors today and I think I should stick to an honest 3-3.5 lift. I have taken a good look at this Mopar lift made by Teraflex. I can have it for $2000.

MOPAR P5156140 - MOPAR® Performance 3" Lift Kit with Fox Shocks for 12-15 Jeep® Wrangler Unlimited JK 4 Door - Quadratec

To that I can add my JKS track bar and my Coast 1310 front shaft. To correct the front control arm geometry I would use the Rancho brackets with either the stock front lower arms or a set of adjustable front lowers.

Rancho RS6250B - RANCHO® Control Arm Bracket for 07-15 Jeep® Wrangler & Wrangler Unlimited JK with 3-4" Lift - Quadratec

I would have under $2500 in that set up not counting the front shaft and my track bar. How does that sound? No it might not be the "best" but I am interested in opinions you might have to improve it. I was thinking about 37's too but like the 4.5 lift, I think I would be better off with a more moderate approach. What say you?