Best Direction on Rear Axle /Coilovers
#21
JK Junkie
It'll be on a 44--not a 60. I was going thru the possible scenario of just getting a rear 60, while keeping the front 44 with adapters until he could upgrade the front as well. My advice being to to just save and get both front and rear d60s at the same time instead of running 1.5" backspacing on D44 balljoints and unit bearings.
#22
JK Junkie
Plus new wheels, plus drive shafts, plus a few other odds and ends to get the brakes and e brake working. I just went through this about 6 months ago after bending my stock rear. Total cost was around 15k with a new set of beadlocks. After attempting to sell my existing wheels and prorock 44 for a few weeks and having a couple buyers back out. I gave up and did the unthinkable. I bought a semi float 60 rear.
#23
JK Junkie
Plus new wheels, plus drive shafts, plus a few other odds and ends to get the brakes and e brake working. I just went through this about 6 months ago after bending my stock rear. Total cost was around 15k with a new set of beadlocks. After attempting to sell my existing wheels and prorock 44 for a few weeks and having a couple buyers back out. I gave up and did the unthinkable. I bought a semi float 60 rear.
I bought e-brake lines for my Sterling and they were $35.
The axles are 8x6.5. About the most common wheel size for offroading. You can find wheels for nearly free.
And back to the original point I made, you gain nothing with a semi float 60 other than a lighter wallet. Either keep the 44 or get a real axle.
#24
JK Enthusiast
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Northridge has a package deal for $12k shipped that includes shafts. I bought e-brake lines for my Sterling and they were $35. The axles are 8x6.5. About the most common wheel size for offroading. You can find wheels for nearly free. And back to the original point I made, you gain nothing with a semi float 60 other than a lighter wallet. Either keep the 44 or get a real axle.
But the truth in what I have read is that the rear 44 with a good set of shafts, locker and truss will handle 37s all day long and that is about $1500 all said done. Coilovers are mainly eye candy in the rear...as I have no complaints on how it rides now. (Front is totally worth it in my opinion, much smoother and coils do not become unbound)
#25
JK Junkie
Yeah, just a little derailing...lol
But the truth in what I have read is that the rear 44 with a good set of shafts, locker and truss will handle 37s all day long and that is about $1500 all said done. Coilovers are mainly eye candy in the rear...as I have no complaints on how it rides now. (Front is totally worth it in my opinion, much smoother and coils do not become unbound)
But the truth in what I have read is that the rear 44 with a good set of shafts, locker and truss will handle 37s all day long and that is about $1500 all said done. Coilovers are mainly eye candy in the rear...as I have no complaints on how it rides now. (Front is totally worth it in my opinion, much smoother and coils do not become unbound)
#26
JK Super Freak
Where did they snap? The op has a rubi 44 in the rear if I'm not mistaken. They are 32 spline so just wondering if it would of made a difference
#27
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#28
JK Freak
It's a difference of 0.1" in axle shaft diameter between a rubi 44 & regular 44. If you're breaking 30 spline shafts you'll most likely be breaking 32 spline shafts.
#29
I did 35 spline shafts in my rear 44. Same shafts you will run in a SF 60. With an ARB, gears, and labor, came out to about 2k.
But if you find yourself bending and breaking housings then a trail 60 might be a good idea. But most people will bend flanges and break R&Ps and in those cases a trail 60 will not help you.
But if you find yourself bending and breaking housings then a trail 60 might be a good idea. But most people will bend flanges and break R&Ps and in those cases a trail 60 will not help you.
#30
JK Junkie