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The best "daily driver" lift

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Old 01-13-2011, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by jenly8
Anybody have problems with rear coil bind on a 2 dr with 4" lift? By the time I get the driveline at the right angle, the coils are really bound up.
What do you mean by bound up? Are the coils bowing?

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...-Degree-Wedges
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Old 01-13-2011, 01:59 PM
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Yes they are Bowing and am wondering how that effects the performance of the spring
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Old 01-13-2011, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by WhiskyPirate
not to sidetrack since I was aware of the short d/s issue for 2 doors, but I did not know that rear upper ca's were needed when you replace with a double cardin u joint shaft.
can someone enlighten me?
as mentioned already, with a u-joint style double cardin shaft, you need to set your pinion so that it's relatively parallel to the shaft. you will need adjustable upper control arms to do this.

here's what your pinion looks like from the factory - the pinion is parallel to the output shaft...


and, here's what it should look like when installing an aftermarket u-joint style drive shaft...





Originally Posted by jenly8
Yes they are Bowing and am wondering how that effects the performance of the spring
it doesn't really effect anything. but, depending on what track bar you have, you may find that the coils make contact with it. the degree wedges work okay but if you really want to address the bowing, i would install a set of JKS adjustable lower spring perches instead.



http://www.northridge4x4.com/proddet...S-2400&cat=273
Last edited by wayoflife; 01-13-2011 at 02:07 PM.
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Old 01-13-2011, 02:20 PM
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Thanks for the info. Do you think it would be smarter to have welded perches
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Old 01-13-2011, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by jenly8
Thanks for the info. Do you think it would be smarter to have welded perches
no. also, if you decide to change your lift height in the future, the JKS perches will allow you to make corrections as needed.
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Old 01-13-2011, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by nthinuf
Aftermarket shafts use different joints, and need different angles. With stock shafts, you want the pinion and the tcase output to be roughly parallel. With aftermarkets, the pinion needs to be pointed up at the tcase. ( go out to Tom Woods driveline, click on the tech info area up top, and look at Geometry 101, you will see some good pics and an explanation)

So, you need some way of 'tilting' the axle enough to get the pinion lined up...
I read up on the 101 and it has good info, it brings up a lot more question, but great info. I was wondering though what was meant when he said "Ultimately you need to be certain that your driveline will rotate freely under full axle droop." Can anyone elaborate?

I am doing my homework now because I plan on going with a 3" long arm (or short arm) kit. I have a 2 door, so I have to replace the DS so I figure if I am going to do the rear I might I well do the front to. I definitely am going to run 35's but want the ability to run 37's. This means I am going to have to regear. IF I do regear I will go to 5.13. What should I keep in mind with I kit if in the future you might be regearing?
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Old 01-13-2011, 03:19 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by coorsfan
I read up on the 101 and it has good info, it brings up a lot more question, but great info. I was wondering though what was meant when he said "Ultimately you need to be certain that your driveline will rotate freely under full axle droop." Can anyone elaborate?
you can only have a u-joint bend so far before it starts to bind and no longer rotates freely. this is not something you need to worry about unless you are running really tall coil overs.

I am doing my homework now because I plan on going with a 3" long arm (or short arm) kit. I have a 2 door, so I have to replace the DS so I figure if I am going to do the rear I might I well do the front to. I definitely am going to run 35's but want the ability to run 37's. This means I am going to have to regear. IF I do regear I will go to 5.13. What should I keep in mind with I kit if in the future you might be regearing?
your lift kit will have no bearing on your gears and you will not need to be concerned with this.
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Old 01-13-2011, 06:13 PM
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Originally Posted by nthinuf
Aftermarket shafts use different joints, and need different angles. With stock shafts, you want the pinion and the tcase output to be roughly parallel. With aftermarkets, the pinion needs to be pointed up at the tcase. ( go out to Tom Woods driveline, click on the tech info area up top, and look at Geometry 101, you will see some good pics and an explanation)

So, you need some way of 'tilting' the axle enough to get the pinion lined up...
Originally Posted by wayoflife
as mentioned already, with a u-joint style double cardin shaft, you need to set your pinion so that it's relatively parallel to the shaft. you will need adjustable upper control arms to do this.

here's what your pinion looks like from the factory - the pinion is parallel to the output shaft...


and, here's what it should look like when installing an aftermarket u-joint style drive shaft...







it doesn't really effect anything. but, depending on what track bar you have, you may find that the coils make contact with it. the degree wedges work okay but if you really want to address the bowing, i would install a set of JKS adjustable lower spring perches instead.



http://www.northridge4x4.com/proddet...S-2400&cat=273
Thanks for the info guys! Great info that I was not aware of. Much appreciated!
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Old 01-14-2011, 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by wayoflife
thif you're wanting to stay at a relatively stock height but be able to carry more weight, you might want to look into a set of factory height OME HD coils.
Can't find 'em anywhere..... Are you sure that they make such a beast?
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Old 01-14-2011, 06:21 AM
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Originally Posted by RayHoliO
Can't find 'em anywhere..... Are you sure that they make such a beast?
OME has all kinds of springs for all kinds of needs. give david at northridge4x4 a call and he should be able to help you track something down. if they don't exist, i would be surprised.
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