roadking54

other costs....You may want to factor in a front axle upgrade or reinforcement for those 37's, a gear swap, and a rear bumper and tire carrier to hold that larger/heavier spare....along with your lift and new drive shafts that is

jeepjackal

im looking to buy an 2011 2 door,,, i want to run 40's,,
wayoflife,, what would you suggest i get to accomplish this,,it will be a daily driver but i also do a lot of offroading as well here in the midwest,, i realize ill need dana 60's, 5:38 gears,,,but i have no clue on what lift to get,,,any advise will be helpful

RayHoliO

Sounds like you're the man to talk to

I've heard complaints about an ARB bumper + winch (like I'm installing this weekend) trashing factory coils.. I think that's the MAIN reason I'm looking at lifts.. I would be cool with just popping in a few spacers, but I think after adding a roof rack, rear bumper, etc.. I might be replacing my springs and shocks anyhow....

does that sound reasonable? or am I worried over nothing?

If I AM going to have to install new springs and shocks.. I'm mostly interested in ride quality... but if I can make room for 34 or 35 inch tires.. might as well do that at the same time.

I love trails.. and a little rock crawling is pretty cool.. but I'm not going to be taking the 'hard' way up the mountain simply to test my rig, and climb every boulder..... I'm more interested in the view from the top..... and getting there without my wife puking.

Any experience with adjustable shocks? are they worthless? or actually worth looking into?

wayoflife

wow, you aren't messing around are you?

for as much lift as you're going to need and as big of a tire you plan on running, i think you need to talk to off road evolution and get one of their long arm kits with coil overs. their kit is specifically designed to work with 60's and even come with high clearance rear control arm mounts that can only work with this setup. talk to mel and let him know that i sent you

wayoflife

the extra weight will cause your coils to sag but, i wouldn't say that they'll necessarily trash your coils. installing a set of spacers is probably the cheapest and easiest solution to your problem but, if you're wanting to stay at a relatively stock height but be able to carry more weight, you might want to look into a set of factory height OME HD coils. as far as shocks go, i wouldn't say that adjustables are worthless, they're just a pain to use and more trouble than they're worth. i might recommend a set of factory rubicon shocks over them or, if you're looking for something nicer, a set of OME shocks.

RayHoliO

Right on man.. I sure appriciate your help.. You help a lot of people on here.. takes a rare person to put aside that much time for others.. it's often thankless... So THANK YOU.

I've got a rubi, so I'm already on them there rubi shocks.. probably wouldn't see much of a difference with performance in an EMU shock, right?

My plan is to install the bumper, and see how it sits.. I'll likely end up putting in some EMU HD OEM height springs and at least a front spacer...

Do you see anything wrong with only replacing the front springs until I get my back bumper?

wayoflife

LOL!! thank you, i really do appreciate it.

the OME shocks will offer a softer ride than the rubi shocks which tend to feel firm by comparison. as far as your plan goes, i think your approach is a good one. take small steps and address what you need when you need. if your front end needs help, address it then and the same goes for the rear.

WhiskyPirate

not to sidetrack since I was aware of the short d/s issue for 2 doors, but I did not know that rear upper ca's were needed when you replace with a double cardin u joint shaft.
can someone enlighten me?

jenly8

Anybody have problems with rear coil bind on a 2 dr with 4" lift? By the time I get the driveline at the right angle, the coils are really bound up.

nthinuf

Aftermarket shafts use different joints, and need different angles. With stock shafts, you want the pinion and the tcase output to be roughly parallel. With aftermarkets, the pinion needs to be pointed up at the tcase. ( go out to Tom Woods driveline, click on the tech info area up top, and look at Geometry 101, you will see some good pics and an explanation)

So, you need some way of 'tilting' the axle enough to get the pinion lined up...