Bent Tie Rod
#41
Just one point of clarification... I keep seeing people mentioning that it is solid there for stronger. The reality of the matter is that you can obtain 95% of the strength with 15% of the thickness. Pound for pound, solid tie rods and not as strong as DOM. That being said, I do like the Rock krawler product because of the warranty.
I do understand your point and agree with you 100%. I dont know the conversions and strengths to be able to compare... But 1 3/4" chromolly hs a strength of "X". So what comparable DOM do you have to run to exceed this? It might end up requiring something along the lines of 3" diam and .250" wall... or 1" and .500" wall?? They arent really apples to apples. It would be interesting to find that out. My point is of what is available on the market currently, that fits into this narrow "channel" I believe the RK is the best for the application.
Another thing to consider when comparing DOM to solid, is that once the DOM is even dented, is loses its strength dramatically. Think of it this way... remember the empty beer can trick? You smash it on your forehead and look tough. Do that with a can that does not have a single dent or imperfection in it and your head will HURT! Put the smallest little dent of crease in that can, and it crumbles easily.
#42
Where do you find the info on the RK warranty in specific reference to the tie rod?? I couldn't find it. The only thing I saw was in reference to the track bars and control arms. It also seems to only apply to complete systems?
#43
JK Super Freak
Pound for pound you are right. If you find a DOM tubing of equal length as the RK Tie Rod, I'd like to know the overall diameter and the wall thickness!!!!
I do understand your point and agree with you 100%. I dont know the conversions and strengths to be able to compare... But 1 3/4" chromolly hs a strength of "X". So what comparable DOM do you have to run to exceed this? It might end up requiring something along the lines of 3" diam and .250" wall... or 1" and .500" wall?? They arent really apples to apples. It would be interesting to find that out. My point is of what is available on the market currently, that fits into this narrow "channel" I believe the RK is the best for the application.
Another thing to consider when comparing DOM to solid, is that once the DOM is even dented, is loses its strength dramatically. Think of it this way... remember the empty beer can trick? You smash it on your forehead and look tough. Do that with a can that does not have a single dent or imperfection in it and your head will HURT! Put the smallest little dent of crease in that can, and it crumbles easily.
I do understand your point and agree with you 100%. I dont know the conversions and strengths to be able to compare... But 1 3/4" chromolly hs a strength of "X". So what comparable DOM do you have to run to exceed this? It might end up requiring something along the lines of 3" diam and .250" wall... or 1" and .500" wall?? They arent really apples to apples. It would be interesting to find that out. My point is of what is available on the market currently, that fits into this narrow "channel" I believe the RK is the best for the application.
Another thing to consider when comparing DOM to solid, is that once the DOM is even dented, is loses its strength dramatically. Think of it this way... remember the empty beer can trick? You smash it on your forehead and look tough. Do that with a can that does not have a single dent or imperfection in it and your head will HURT! Put the smallest little dent of crease in that can, and it crumbles easily.
#45
Hmm... hadnt thought of that one before. But in order of dollars I think the knuckles are the most, then the tie rod, then the tie rod end. I would bet the TR or TRE would go long before the knuckle would. Just a guess though with absolutely zero facts to support that theory!
#46
#47
I made mine by myself as use SCM420 steel (sorry, no idea which is equivalent in US spec.) and reaming holes on knuckles to make high steering.
If tie rod is too strong, not easy to fluctuate, both ends will be worn out easily regardless of type of end ball.
If too mild, steering quality will be not enough good.
I think soft is better than harder because harder one cause another issue on next components of tie rod.
If tie rod is too strong, not easy to fluctuate, both ends will be worn out easily regardless of type of end ball.
If too mild, steering quality will be not enough good.
I think soft is better than harder because harder one cause another issue on next components of tie rod.
#48