Bent Axle C vs Bent Axle Tube
#11
JK Freak
it's a nice idea but to be quite honest, i don't see how it would really make a difference. yes, i know the tubes get welded at the ends and also get's a plug weld as well but aside from that, there's really nothing significantly bonding the two together that would be needed to give it additional strength. think of plywood, it gets its strenght from the fact that multiple sheets of veneer are laminated together and by doing this, the two can work together as one with the upper sheets taking on compression forces and the lowers tension forces. now, if they weren't laminated together, they would both slide and bend no less than would a deck of cards.
It doesn't work that way. resistance to bending is a factor of the section modulus. In plywood they increased strength comes because you are increasing the section modulus (Sx) by a power of 4 when you glue two shapes together. if the two identical shapes are simply side-by-side (welded or not) or stacked (i.e. deck of cards... not welded) you only double the section modulus.
So, sleeving the axle adds the section modulus of the second tube to the section modulus of the original axle tube. I don't know how thick the sleeve is compared to the original, but if they are the same wall thickness it would roughly double the strength of the axle.
The "plywood effect" would be to weld a truss to the top/bottom of the original axle. Then, you can "double" the strength of the axle without doubling the amount of material.
Now my question... Has anyone bent a C with stock tires without spacers?
I've got 13,000 mi. on my JK & it has started to pull to the right just a bit before I added spacers last week. I don't think I can see any chamber (?) in the wheels, but may take it to an alignment shop.
If the C is bent I was going to take off the spacers & try to get the dealer to repair it. Has anyone had a dealer repair a bent C under warranty?
#12
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It doesn't work that way. resistance to bending is a factor of the section modulus. In plywood they increased strength comes because you are increasing the section modulus (Sx) by a power of 4 when you glue two shapes together. if the two identical shapes are simply side-by-side (welded or not) or stacked (i.e. deck of cards... not welded) you only double the section modulus.
So, sleeving the axle adds the section modulus of the second tube to the section modulus of the original axle tube. I don't know how thick the sleeve is compared to the original, but if they are the same wall thickness it would roughly double the strength of the axle.
The "plywood effect" would be to weld a truss to the top/bottom of the original axle. Then, you can "double" the strength of the axle without doubling the amount of material.
So, sleeving the axle adds the section modulus of the second tube to the section modulus of the original axle tube. I don't know how thick the sleeve is compared to the original, but if they are the same wall thickness it would roughly double the strength of the axle.
The "plywood effect" would be to weld a truss to the top/bottom of the original axle. Then, you can "double" the strength of the axle without doubling the amount of material.
Now my question... Has anyone bent a C with stock tires without spacers?
I've got 13,000 mi. on my JK & it has started to pull to the right just a bit before I added spacers last week. I don't think I can see any chamber (?) in the wheels, but may take it to an alignment shop.
If the C is bent I was going to take off the spacers & try to get the dealer to repair it. Has anyone had a dealer repair a bent C under warranty?
#13
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I bought my sleeves from Mt Logan Offroad for $145 shipped. (Way less expensive than BOR.)
Hope to install them, my ORE gussets & LCA skids this weekend.
Will take pics
Just Google Mount Logan Offroad Logan Utah & you will find their contact info. You have to order on the phone. They don't have an internet store.
If you drive to Logan, Utah, they will do the parts and install for abou $300 plus tax..
The RK truss is designed for their long arm system. Don' know how it would work with stock control arm brackets.
I have read that you can tell if your axle C is bent by whether there is a gap between your ball joints and their mounting location. Or, you can have an alignment done to see if your camber is out of spec.
Hope to install them, my ORE gussets & LCA skids this weekend.
Will take pics
Just Google Mount Logan Offroad Logan Utah & you will find their contact info. You have to order on the phone. They don't have an internet store.
If you drive to Logan, Utah, they will do the parts and install for abou $300 plus tax..
The RK truss is designed for their long arm system. Don' know how it would work with stock control arm brackets.
I have read that you can tell if your axle C is bent by whether there is a gap between your ball joints and their mounting location. Or, you can have an alignment done to see if your camber is out of spec.
#14
now if i dont wheel at all and have 35s, I know there is a chance to bend the C's, but shouldnt they be stout enought to take regular road driving? will i bend them just driving on the highway?
#16
They will bend off road, that is why i put the c2 gussets from off road evolution on my d44 on the rubi. I am not taking chances this time it is a p.i.t.a. Not to mention expensive should it happen again. $89.00 problem solved!
#17
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Looks good man. I still haven't decided exactly what I will be welding on mine yet. The EVO's are a given, but I am still up in the air about a truss, sleeve, or both. I am leaning towards a truss, but the question then becomes whether to use the rock krawler and use the fire axe to cut it to fit the upper control arm mount, or go totally custom.
Decisions, decisions...
Decisions, decisions...
#18
JK Junkie
Did you weld the inside side of the tube as well? It seems to me that it would not do much if only one side was welded, unless its a very very tight fit.
Looks good though
Looks good though
#19
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Just so you know, AEV apparently has a truss in development as well, as per Dave on the forums. Not a clue on details (as usual with AEV ) but their stuff is most always high quality.
I've been back and forth on upgrade the 44/get a 60 for a while now. I figure If I keep the 44, I'm gonna do it all... gears w/ ARB's, sleeves, truss, gussets, skids, shafts, and diff covers... Even with all that, it's very shy price wise compared to a 60... but strength wise I'm afraid it's still apples to ... well I guess better apples... with a slightly different flavor or something. Another deciding factor is that 60's would allow me to go 8 lug... which are just sexy to me.
I've been back and forth on upgrade the 44/get a 60 for a while now. I figure If I keep the 44, I'm gonna do it all... gears w/ ARB's, sleeves, truss, gussets, skids, shafts, and diff covers... Even with all that, it's very shy price wise compared to a 60... but strength wise I'm afraid it's still apples to ... well I guess better apples... with a slightly different flavor or something. Another deciding factor is that 60's would allow me to go 8 lug... which are just sexy to me.