It begins....
04-28-2009, 09:52 AM
#51
Just yalls' opinions here....I've been working on drivelines for damn near thirty years. I always thought it was simple and straight forward. So, those of you who've done successful gear swaps now.......don't yall think that most of these shops talked about on here are robbin people blind? I sure do. We used to swap gearsets out at the DEALER for 200 bucks an axle. Labor only of course.
04-28-2009, 11:09 AM
#52
JK Super Freak
Thread Starter
Just yalls' opinions here....I've been working on drivelines for damn near thirty years. I always thought it was simple and straight forward. So, those of you who've done successful gear swaps now.......don't yall think that most of these shops talked about on here are robbin people blind? I sure do. We used to swap gearsets out at the DEALER for 200 bucks an axle. Labor only of course.
Hell, when I was speaking to some of my local buds they thought I was nuts to even attempt this??? That kind of mentality perpetuates the the problem and shops treat it like surgery. I understand that they have a business to run, and they probably have all the special tools they need to pay for which only make the job that much easier....but we're looking at about 450-500 USD an axle on average up here.....200 would be alot more reasonable, I may have been tempted to just pay that........but again along with having someone else do the work opens you up to having it done poorly or potentially improperly...tkob knows
04-28-2009, 10:12 PM
#54
JK Newbie
Join Date: Jan 2009
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I want to be somewhere in the 2200 range. Right now I have 321's and 75mph is 2000 in 5th 
But still pulls fine Sorry for the high jackI think 4.88's with a stick would be fine. I had 5.13's with a stick and it was a tad too low, but only noticed it on the interstate, i was over 3k rpms at 65 mph.
so 4.88's would work a little better, probably be closer to around 2.8k rpms?
but the auto's seem fine with 4.10's and 35"s as long as you flash you computer to know you have 35" tires.
What gears do you currently have? if you are moving the 3.21 or 3.73, then yeah 4.56 would be worth it, but if you already have 4.10's then I wouldn't jump that small, i would go all the way to at least 4.88's.
don't get me wrong though, i loved my 5.13's around town and on the trail, just burned up more gas on the interstate.
so 4.88's would work a little better, probably be closer to around 2.8k rpms?
but the auto's seem fine with 4.10's and 35"s as long as you flash you computer to know you have 35" tires.
What gears do you currently have? if you are moving the 3.21 or 3.73, then yeah 4.56 would be worth it, but if you already have 4.10's then I wouldn't jump that small, i would go all the way to at least 4.88's.
don't get me wrong though, i loved my 5.13's around town and on the trail, just burned up more gas on the interstate.
04-29-2009, 06:39 AM
#56
JK Freak
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Rancho Cucamonga, Ca
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08-28-2011, 02:18 PM
#57
I regeared my rubicon myself. Replaced pinion flanges with Yokes for the new driveshafts. I built a bar to engage the yoke holes using grade 8 bolts as pins. Sheared them off trying to crush the sleeves. It took well over twice the torque that the manual suggests. Needed a pipe on the breaker bar.
Be sure to use new pinion nuts when replacing gears.
Mike
Be sure to use new pinion nuts when replacing gears.
Mike
