ThinkMud

I had 3.21's in my last jk, and 4.10's now, and I would have to say it would be 100% worth it as long as you didn't have to pay a shop to do it. seriously 4.10's on the JK are just fine. I had 5.13's in my last one after the 3.21's and it was way over kill and way too low for 35"s with an stick. now the rubi has 4.10's and 35"s with the AEV procal module to set the tires right, and it's fine. no need to go any lower. just my opinion. but i would like 4.88's anyway

BlackNorthernJK

Yeah, it's really a PITA to hold that thing while trying to exert the force to crush the sleeve...once I was able to hold it perfectly steady it wasn't too bad...and I didn't even use a snipe or large leverage bar, just my torque wrench (it held up) RCJeeper has constructed a hell of a tool

100% worth it. I have no plans to exceed 33" tires...I find this gearing an absolute perfect match for this size of tire...which is probably why the engineers decided on them for the Rubis and their 32" tires.
Plus...honestly, if I do go with taller tires later I know how to install the gears myself now and have everything I need.
In the end I'm very happy. I don't think I would be as pleased with 4.56 and my current tires....we'll see what happens when these wear thin.
Current investment, about $1800CDN all in...gears, locker, LSD, overhaul kits and tools. In the end, only cost me an extra 260 in tools and my time, vs the 1200 I was looking at for install costs only....and I have gained all this knowledge and confidence now

BlackNorthernJK

Congrats man it's a beast of a tool you made there.
Don't you feel better having done this now on your own?

ThinkMud

yeah there is nothing like doing your own work. Even if I did have the money, I would much rather do it my self. just makes what ever you do 100 times better b/c you did it yourself.

you have stepped into a whole new realm of "shade tree mechanic" when you can install your own gears!

wilywillie

That looks really kicka**! I'm having the same nightmares about re-gearing my 3.21s, but like everybody says, I don't trust myself with gear and transmission work

09JKX

I have been weighting my options also. Everyone is telling me to run 488's with my 35's but being a 2door stick Im thinking i dont wanna go that low. I dont need any more acceleration I just would like to get 6th gear back. Im thinking 456's are the best for me...

ThinkMud

I think 4.88's with a stick would be fine. I had 5.13's with a stick and it was a tad too low, but only noticed it on the interstate, i was over 3k rpms at 65 mph.

so 4.88's would work a little better, probably be closer to around 2.8k rpms?

but the auto's seem fine with 4.10's and 35"s as long as you flash you computer to know you have 35" tires.

What gears do you currently have? if you are moving the 3.21 or 3.73, then yeah 4.56 would be worth it, but if you already have 4.10's then I wouldn't jump that small, i would go all the way to at least 4.88's.

don't get me wrong though, i loved my 5.13's around town and on the trail, just burned up more gas on the interstate.

Jeff09

Hi RCJeeper.

I spent quite a bit of time over the weekend looking for a flange tool for my JK. There were references to a tool in the Jeep service manaul, and I found other references to similar tools in various write-ups; but, I couldn't find a tool at local parts or tool stores.

I finally ended up using a couple of U-bolts and a 1-1/4 pipe. It wasn't pretty, it had slop in it that I concerned might damage the threads in the yokes, and I couldn't position it to place the stress along the centerline of the flange. It worked along with an impact for removing the pinion nuts; however, I would buy a tool like yours for future use if I didn't sway out the yokes with the new driveshafts. (Even a 24" pipe wrench wouldn't open far enough to let me grip the outside of the OEM yokes at the axles.)

There may just be a market for your tool... at least through the driveshaft manufacturers that provide JK products.

Good Work

Jeff

Jeff09

Hi BlackNorthernJK,

Great job with your re-gearing!

I agree with you that there is a feeling of great satisfaction in doing a job yourself. You should be proud.

That being said... between the cost of the tools, the time, and attempt to pop the blood vessels in my head, I don't think I could consider regearing my JK. Hell, I couldn't even get the front pinion nut off my JK without real effort on my part. (I was really surprised that a long Craftsman breaker bar with about a 30" cheater on the end of wouldn't budge the nut... I didn't have the best leverage under the JK... but, still, I don't know what Jeep used to torque that nut on. I'm afraid gearing will be one project that I will be trusting to an experienced mechanic.

Thanks for all your effort, and for a great thread.

Jeff

RCJeeper

I second guessed myself the last 4 hours working on the tool thinking, self, why the hell are you wasting so much time on this thing? Hearing now from all ya all, it was worth it.

I drove the JK to work this morning with a big shit eatin grin. I'm holdin off on the party for a couple of days to make sure it doesn't leak or do anything else funny, but its quiet and smooth with no leaks.

I did bend the little locker sensor in the rear Sunday afternoon trying to get the carrier shims dialed in, so that sucked ass. Do not attempt the rear rubicon diff with that sensor in place. It looks like its outa the way but heaving that 40 lb chunk of metal into place 5 or 6 times and you're bound to bump into it and ruin your day. I got lucky and had the part by Monday morning ($57) but there's 7 or 8 dealerships within an hour of my place.


Was drinking a beer around 10pm last night after the first test drive and yup, all smiles. I have an auto and 35s. I thought 5.13s would be really torquey but having done it, I'd do nothing less. Not nearly as drastic as I thought it might have been.