I have 37" tires coming and plan on beefing up what I can (over th next several months) but I don't know the best sequence. I have asked a similar question before but since there has been a few months I am wondering if wear would play a role in doing this differently? I have a 3.25" suspension lift and have done nothing else. Right now it drives fine with zero issues. I am doing this as precautionary and for piece of mind . . . everyone has me worried.

I don't drive off road much but don't want to worry about it if I do . . .

The things I plan on changing in sequence are:

weld on gussets (3 week back order), then front and rear trackbar, then control arms, 5.38 gears and F/R TWs drive shafts together.

There are eight control arms. I think my caster is off a bit but no driving issues although I know there is additional stress on parts I do not know what they are called. But which ones should I change, all, or just the ones that correct the caster and pinion angle? If I change just those two sets will it screw up and stress the other two sets? So many questions . . .

Thanks for your help . . .

 

Do your C-gussets at the same time you do your gears. Your going to have the front axle apart anyway. I didn't see what year your JK is but if ball joints are in the near future...do them at this time also, again, it is all apart and taking the ball joints out will make the C-gusset install easier.

Then do your tracbars and control arms so you can get everything aligned up.

Do your driveshafts last. If your not wheeling alot and are having no issues with your stockers hold off till last. Also, research your driveshafts...there have been alot of threads regarding the way TW driveshafts are being built. I'm not speaking from experience just giving a fellow jeeper the heads up.

 

I'm having issues with my woods driveshaft. It apparently wasn't sent with much internal grease but a huge gob of grease on the cv side.

sent from a super duper awesome EVO 3D

 

You're adding flats also? A body lift? Bumpstops?

If you are on a budget, you don't need all 8 arms. Front lower for caster and rear upper for pinion when you swap that shaft. (unless you want the other sets for wheelbase).

You will save some labor costs by doing gussets/sleeves/etc with the gears. If you need to space it out, do the gussets first.

Driveshafts can wait until your stock shafts start spitting grease and/or making noise.




So you did not grease it at install, and from your other thread, you are running 7 inches of lift on a 2door while using stock ca's. Your pinion is off!! And running it at those angles without grease?? Again, not an issue with the driveshaft.

 

The angle isn't off much at all. No vibrations or issues. Until now.

sent from a super duper awesome EVO 3D

 

I didn't plan on adding a body lift . . . didn't think I needed bumpstops . . . what are flats?

 

Rough Country sells all 8 control arms for $699 whereas JKS sells the front lowers for $666. Is there really that much of a difference in quality?

 

The Wrangler is designed to be a 1/4 ton truck. At some point it probably makes more sense to start with a 3/4 ton 4x4, cut the wheelbase down, and drop a Wrangler body on it so it still looks like a Jeep. Nothing is ever that simple of course, but there will always be one more weak link when trying to upgrade everything to a higher service level.

 

Yes, there is. Research how they are built, the size of the material used to build the arms, and the type of joints the have on the ends.

 

U joint is shot after 1973 miles on my woods driveshaft. Almost all highway, no off-road use.

sent from a super duper awesome EVO 3D