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Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

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"beefing up" axels

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Old 09-29-2011 | 12:07 PM
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Ok, I've heard this term MORE than a few times on here....and I know it means a lot more than just regearing....my question is...what would be the best way to "beef up" an axel? What all would I need to buy? Mine is Still a daily driver, but is also taken offroad a pretty good bit. I'm just wanting bigger tires so flares won't look stupid. I've seen lots of jkers running 37s on their stock, non rubi, front axels... But the tires I want don't come in 37s to fit my rim. Do you think a d30 could handle 38s if it was "beefed up"? Still new to 4WD stuff, so please bear with me.

Thanks for Any help.

Last edited by c-mack; 09-29-2011 at 12:28 PM.
Old 09-29-2011 | 12:18 PM
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Guys are putting steel sleeves inside the axels to strengthen them and prevent bending. They are also gusseting the end parts to prevent bending and flexing. They use upgraded track bars and sway bars that are beefier. They will put a truss across the rear axel to prevent bending it.

Tera flex and other venders sell all of this stuff.

If you arent really wheeling your daily driver and just want the 37 inch look, I would guess minimal upgrades would really be needed but would not hurt to do.

I saw a sleeve and gusset kit fro under $150. you would need to be fair a welding or know a welder.

Most of the beef is needed for the extra stress when you are hammering rocks and flexing out with the huge tires.

ORW has a nice teraflex 2.5 coil lift with new extended bilsteins for under $800 shipped, that and flat fenders should let you run those monsters. If you are going to wheel it hard you may want a taller lift.

Never mind I just read your tag, you have a lift already

I dont have a jk yet, but I have been researching like mad. So my info is just a regurgitation of what I have read here.
It does not come from actual experience.

I have built a wrecked toyota with a rusted through frame, and i have built a custom V rod with fat tire conversion, and a lifted ram megacab.

But I have 0 experience with jeeps. Just my little disclairmer.

Last edited by trbizwiz; 09-29-2011 at 12:52 PM.
Old 09-29-2011 | 12:18 PM
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C-gussets will physically strengthen the axle housing. They must be welded on
Old 09-29-2011 | 12:20 PM
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I've seen guys running 38s and up just fine on 30s without the Cs and Gussets but for the price a lil insurance doesn't hurt
Old 09-29-2011 | 12:28 PM
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It can. It also means you drive it smart on the trail. Eventually, something will break but it could be a week or year and that depends on how you drive and make it stronger.
Old 09-29-2011 | 12:40 PM
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C gussets and axle sleeves. Teraflex and EVO are a couple options.
Old 09-30-2011 | 06:30 AM
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Awesome, thank you all! Those are both on the top of my to do list. One thing though, what does it normally cost to get the axel sleeves installed? Just a rough estimate...

Thanks!
Old 09-30-2011 | 02:53 PM
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EVO estimates around 6.5 hours for gussets and sleeves, but it may take longer depending on the condition of your axle.

Hourly rates vary depending on location, so you'll have to call around to get estimates.
Old 09-30-2011 | 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by c-mack
One thing though, what does it normally cost to get the axel sleeves installed? Just a rough estimate...
It can vary quite a bit by location and by which particular shop or welder you use. When you have a chance, go out to evo's website (OffRoad Evolution) and find the videos section. Watch an install of the C Gussets and Inner Sleeves so you'll have a better idea of what all is involved, and maybe an understanding of any pricing differences you run into. (ex. if one shop removes the balljoints before welding in the gussets, and another shop welds with them installed and just uses wet rags to cool, you could get a decent price difference from the extra labor of removing them). And if you are planning a gear swap, that is the perfect time to have the welding done, as the housing will already be torn apart, so it will save some labor costs.

You should also look at Outer Sleeves, Trusses, CA skids and beefier brackets just for the comparison. Depending on your budget and needs, you might find that you want to add more reinforcement. (I think outer sleeves would be my choice over the inners, since they give a better strength increase.)


Then again, if you have any thoughts or plans on a front 44 or 60, hold off on the welding and just run the 30 til it breaks.

Last edited by nthinuf; 09-30-2011 at 03:57 PM.
Old 09-30-2011 | 04:12 PM
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Obviously a dumb question(s) on my part - but are the axle tubes themselves that connect the front knuckles/rear bearing housing to the center carrier/pumpkin so weak that you must either have internal sleeves in the front (what about friction???) and external gussets for the rear tubes to keep them lined up correctly?

Seems to me the only way an axle shaft can bend is by flex due to misalignment of the external mount to the center mount? Geez it's been a long week...



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