Bedliner thoughts / brands
09-18-2012, 05:59 PM
#1
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Bedliner thoughts / brands
K so I know there is plenty threads on here about bed lining the inside of your jk but this is mine dammit! Haha anyway I want to bed line inside my 2012 jk an I really want todo it myself but I have had bad experiences with Herculiner in the past with it coming off an fading how hard is it really an can it be done in a weekend? What's the best brand for longevity so many questions,.. Please help me my Jeep brothers!!!
09-18-2012, 08:16 PM
#3
Raptor Liner
I used Raptor Liner and did a thread about it. Total cost with supplies was just under $200. I already had an air compressor. I read every thread I could before pulling the trigger. You best 2 DIY choices are Raptor (needs air compressor) liner or Monstaliner(most commonly rolled on). I love mine and it is super easy to clean with just a wet towel. I have had it rain a couple of times with the back windows out. It's really nice to not have to worry about it. I've also had it super dusty and a bit muddy and it cleaned up in no time.
Prep takes the most time. I would have it all sanded before the weekend your going to spray. Masking takes about 3 hours. Spraying take about another 3 hours. It's 2 coats with an hour between them. After you spray your going to want to have it sit for a day. Then be sort of gentle getting the seats installed and heavy cargo. A couple days would be better. The official instructions say it will be hard after a week. It would be better to line it before it gets too cold.
RAPTOR OFFICIAL INSTRUCTION SHEET-> http://www.u-pol.com/documents/datas...RLB-TDS-US.pdf
LINK->https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-s...hreads-238739/
Pictures of my Jeep Raptor lined
I used a heat gun on this cubby door. It sort of has a bedlined texture after that. I also put a couple coats of liner to finish it. You want to be careful if you do this to work slowly to not get lines in it (like mine below). The liner will not hide uneven texture on the lid.
Good Luck with what ever you choose. It's defiantly one of the best mods you can do.
Prep takes the most time. I would have it all sanded before the weekend your going to spray. Masking takes about 3 hours. Spraying take about another 3 hours. It's 2 coats with an hour between them. After you spray your going to want to have it sit for a day. Then be sort of gentle getting the seats installed and heavy cargo. A couple days would be better. The official instructions say it will be hard after a week. It would be better to line it before it gets too cold.
RAPTOR OFFICIAL INSTRUCTION SHEET-> http://www.u-pol.com/documents/datas...RLB-TDS-US.pdf
LINK->https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-s...hreads-238739/
Pictures of my Jeep Raptor lined
I used a heat gun on this cubby door. It sort of has a bedlined texture after that. I also put a couple coats of liner to finish it. You want to be careful if you do this to work slowly to not get lines in it (like mine below). The liner will not hide uneven texture on the lid.
Good Luck with what ever you choose. It's defiantly one of the best mods you can do.
Last edited by Rooster76; 09-18-2012 at 08:23 PM.
09-18-2012, 08:35 PM
#4
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If you're looking for a cheaper route, I used rustoleum bedliner that comes in spray paint cans. Doesn't have the thick texture of line-x or rhino but it works great for this. Wouldn't suggest it for the bed of a work truck but I love it! Vert easy and as stated above, prep is the majority. Good luck!
09-19-2012, 05:18 AM
#6
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Why not use Lizard Skin? Its actually designed for sound and heat control plus works as a moisture barrier. I just used it in my JK and it turned out amazing and it's way cooler and quieter in my JK now.
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09-19-2012, 09:14 AM
#9
I think you might be talking about Raptor Liner where you have to mix in some hardner before spraying. As far as I know Rhino liner is only sprayed on at Zebart locations by technicians.
RAPTOR OVERSPRAY
The overspray was about like a rattle can or less. Not really all that bad. It doesn't hover in the air. I would put a cover over all the paint anyways, dash, and half way up the roll bar. There is very little chance it would get up by the speaker bar. I would recommend using plastic drop cloths for the big areas. They have them at lowes you can get in 9X12 in 3 packs ($5.50). While I had some plastic to use, I would think about 2 of those 3 packs would cover most of the big areas. Cutting up trash bags would probably work better then tons of newspaper that take a lot of tape to apply.
This is picture after I sprayed. You can see the spray didn't wander too much.
SCUFF PAINT
I used 120 grit sand paper. I tried one of the sponge sand pads and it was trash. I wouldn't use sand paper lower then 100. You don't want to go down to bare metal if you can help it. You want to get rid of all the shiny clear coat and then stop. The factory primer the best surface you can paint on. You can use a higher grit but it will take all day. Another option is to get a red scotch-brite pad. I ended up finding them at Ace hardware after I was done spraying. I used them later when bedlineing my grill and they worked great.
If you do go down to bare metal use one coat of self-etching primer spray. Try to keep it mostly on the metal. The etcher part isn't great on paint.
That's interesting I assumed you had to spray over it. What's the texture like? Do you have any pictures?
The overspray was about like a rattle can or less. Not really all that bad. It doesn't hover in the air. I would put a cover over all the paint anyways, dash, and half way up the roll bar. There is very little chance it would get up by the speaker bar. I would recommend using plastic drop cloths for the big areas. They have them at lowes you can get in 9X12 in 3 packs ($5.50). While I had some plastic to use, I would think about 2 of those 3 packs would cover most of the big areas. Cutting up trash bags would probably work better then tons of newspaper that take a lot of tape to apply.
This is picture after I sprayed. You can see the spray didn't wander too much.
SCUFF PAINT
I used 120 grit sand paper. I tried one of the sponge sand pads and it was trash. I wouldn't use sand paper lower then 100. You don't want to go down to bare metal if you can help it. You want to get rid of all the shiny clear coat and then stop. The factory primer the best surface you can paint on. You can use a higher grit but it will take all day. Another option is to get a red scotch-brite pad. I ended up finding them at Ace hardware after I was done spraying. I used them later when bedlineing my grill and they worked great.
If you do go down to bare metal use one coat of self-etching primer spray. Try to keep it mostly on the metal. The etcher part isn't great on paint.
That's interesting I assumed you had to spray over it. What's the texture like? Do you have any pictures?
Last edited by Rooster76; 09-19-2012 at 09:28 AM.
09-19-2012, 12:29 PM
#10
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Originally Posted by Zenabi
Is that like a roll on thing?
Search for a post I started called "drain plugs and spray in liner " there are some pics...
It's awesome I was just thinking today wow it is so much quieter and cooler in my JK. No more hot jeep inside after its been sitting on the sun.
Only real problem is now I can actually hear what my wife and kids are saying lol
Last edited by HLKSTER; 09-19-2012 at 12:33 PM.