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Ball joints wearing out?

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Old 09-21-2013 | 09:17 AM
  #11  
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Dynatrac balljoints!!
Old 09-21-2013 | 05:46 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by morganhertel
May also be bent parts.. If you have been wheeling with 35s the C's might be bent already. I have a 2013 and have already replaced the ball joints, the drag link and welded in gussets and a truss...

For me the synergy stuff is a good compromise between curry or other really bullet proof parts... Either way have fun..
I have sleeves and gussets on my front end, so I should be ok.
Old 09-21-2013 | 05:47 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by ronjenx
The thing I did that brought back the new Jeep feel to the suspension, front and back, was replace the lower control arm bolts and track bar bolts with bolts of the proper size. Kits are available from some of the forum vendors.

The difference was felt immediately after installation.
Good thought - I think those are the "grade 8" kits I always see people talking about?
Old 09-21-2013 | 06:53 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Brightwhite
Good thought - I think those are the "grade 8" kits I always see people talking about?
Yes; grade 8 bolts and self locking nuts. They are a little larger then OEM, so they fit the hole with less room to move around. Also, they are not threaded all the way to the head like OEM. The threads on the OEM bolts act like cutting tools in the brackets and in the center spacers, creating even more room to move about.
Old 06-05-2014 | 06:42 PM
  #15  
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How in the world were you able to get a dial indicator inside the rim on top of the knuckle to measure .050" vertical play and what surface did you attach the magnet to?
Old 06-05-2014 | 07:05 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Bronco_Bustin
How in the world were you able to get a dial indicator inside the rim on top of the knuckle to measure .050" vertical play and what surface did you attach the magnet to?
Vertical play is measured at the lower ball joint. The magnetic base, or c-clamp base, can be attached to either the C or the knuckle.
Play can be estimated with a measuring stick. Get a measurement and convert to a decimal number.

Last edited by ronjenx; 06-05-2014 at 07:09 PM.
Old 06-12-2014 | 09:23 AM
  #17  
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Default Dynatrac Ball Joints

Well here is my testimonial on the Dynatrac’s. I have a Stock Dana 30 with 33’s. I ran them for about 42K miles daily with about 100 miles off road for 20 Months. They needed rebuilding at 10K longer then stock but I don’t think that’s enough. I took them to the reputable Jeep shop that has sold about 40-45 sets of these. It was the first set to need replacing so it was R&D time for them. 16 hours at least one specialty tool made they were able the rebuild them. They could have sold me new ones and changed them out faster and cheaper then rebuilding them. Needless to say they are not happy and will be complaining to Dynatrac that these ball joints are not as advertised as it takes at least 2 hours for the glue to dry on each ball not including all the rest of the stuff.

As advertised on their website:
“The Dynatrac ProSteer Ball Joints provide higher strength, longer life and once installed can be rebuilt without special tools. This improves servicing the ball joints more easily in the field or at home. Rebuilding the ProSteer Ball Joint at home or at your local shop will cost less than having new OEM ball joints installed at an alignment shop or the dealer.”

Sorry but BS

All that being said when worn out they were still better then stock as the stock ones vibrated at any speed these just vibrated at 65+.

PS they only charged me regular ball joint rate not the 16 hours because they knew it was going to be R&D time.
Old 06-12-2014 | 04:10 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by ronjenx
Have someone grab the tire at top and bottom to wiggle the top in and out while you watch the upper joint for side play. Radial (side-to-side) movement in the upper ball joint should not exceed 0.060" Even if the upper joint checks good, change both if the lower checks bad.
That doesn't make sense to me. Isn't that doing the same thing? Checking for up and down play? In my mind you would want to grab the tire by the sides and wiggle side to side..
Old 09-22-2015 | 03:23 PM
  #19  
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15 Months later on the rebuilds and their shot again changing to Synergy. :(


Originally Posted by realjeep
Well here is my testimonial on the Dynatrac’s. I have a Stock Dana 30 with 33’s. I ran them for about 42K miles daily with about 100 miles off road for 20 Months. They needed rebuilding at 10K longer then stock but I don’t think that’s enough. I took them to the reputable Jeep shop that has sold about 40-45 sets of these. It was the first set to need replacing so it was R&D time for them. 16 hours at least one specialty tool made they were able the rebuild them. They could have sold me new ones and changed them out faster and cheaper then rebuilding them. Needless to say they are not happy and will be complaining to Dynatrac that these ball joints are not as advertised as it takes at least 2 hours for the glue to dry on each ball not including all the rest of the stuff.

As advertised on their website:
“The Dynatrac ProSteer Ball Joints provide higher strength, longer life and once installed can be rebuilt without special tools. This improves servicing the ball joints more easily in the field or at home. Rebuilding the ProSteer Ball Joint at home or at your local shop will cost less than having new OEM ball joints installed at an alignment shop or the dealer.”

Sorry but BS

All that being said when worn out they were still better then stock as the stock ones vibrated at any speed these just vibrated at 65+.

PS they only charged me regular ball joint rate not the 16 hours because they knew it was going to be R&D time.
Old 09-22-2015 | 04:16 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by realjeep
15 Months later on the rebuilds and their shot again changing to Synergy. :(
My Synergy joints lasted 5k miles. The ball joints on the JK axle are small and asking them to handle a 5-6k lb jk on 35s is a tall order. And it's exactly why I can't understand people who buy prorock 44s. Great, you have a stronger housing, too bad you have the same baby ball joints, hubs, brakes, etc.

You don't need new joints. You need smaller tires or a bigger axle. Otherwise, just keep rebuilding them.


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