Unlimited_Fun

This week I'm doing the project, and yesterday took off most of the parts. I still need to remove the ball joints and u-joints today.

I was surprised to find that the seal on the axle didn't meet the body and the axles are that rusted.

When I put them back in, is there a trick to seating these seals again to prevent water from entering that axle cavity?

14Sport

It lets more than just water in. Mine had mud and sand in there as well. I used a threaded rod I had with a big fender washer attached to pull all the crap out before re-assembly.

jadmt

those are where they should be. they do not fit tight remember they spin with the axle so if they are tight they will melt from friction.

Mark Doiron

That happened to mine, too. And, with the axles sleeved and a dust shield on the outer part of the shaft, that muck stay trapped in there until the mud wore a groove into the Chromoly shafts, causing front seal leaks. Fortunately was able to turn the shafts and replace the seals to stop the leak. Fellow who did the machine work--old time off-roader, suggested to never seal those tubes off because they always let muck in, but not back out. Instead, fill up the area next to the inner seal with marine grease--lots of it--to keep the muck away from the seal. That's what I did about 75K miles ago and haven't had a problem since.

14Sport

That's a good idea. Next time I'm in there.

I pulled a front axle from a JY XJ and it had a large groove worn in it too. So bad I couldn't even use it so I've seen what can happen.

I read they have aftermarket shields that are supposed to be better but haven't seen them yet.

Unlimited_Fun

Guides @ 2 each, dust cover spins freely, not water tight, got it. I'm flushing the pumkins and replacing the diff fluids after I get the rest of the job completed.

So I got both ball joints off one side, and the Synergy upper and lower back on and straight using a shim. But the other side, holy freakin . . . I can't get it, I've worn myself out. I even ejected the inner shaft hoping that might help, but it's a no go. I have a 1\2 bar about 30 inches long and even with a little cheater extension, I've gone as far as I have the strength to go, I can't make a smidgen of a turn more.

Maybe being under pressure over time will help it budge, but at this point I'm dead in the water with the project.

jadmt

beat on the side of it with a hammer while under pressure.

Mark Doiron

1. Make sure you're going the right way. Don't ask how I know.

2. If beating doesn't work, apply lots of heat. We used a welding torch on one of mine.

jedg

You're trying to get the ball joints out? Best bet is to rent a ball joint tool from your fav auto parts store. And even better if you have an air ratchet. The other trick is to lower the the side of the axle you're working on so that you get the frame and spring bucket out of the way.

Performance Tool W89304 - Ball Joint Tool Adapter Set | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Unlimited_Fun

Thx guys, I just needed the torch and BFH, it's done now.

I have 2 different ball joint sets.

4 pressed out, 3 pressed in . . . I'm running out of gas for the day.