Ball Joints job and additonal WHAT?
#31
Check the rod end by grabbing it at the end, and push it up and down, by hand. Any vertical movement indicates it is bad. Using pliers to squeeze them is not recommended as new ones will show movement, and it may damage the spring in the socket.
#32
Wiggling the tire from side to side at 3 and 9 is for the tie rod. But it is possible to have play that you can't reproduce this way. So also have someone gently rock the steering wheel back and forth while you look at all steering components for play. Typically any play that you can see this way or feel the other way is enough to warrant replacement.
#33
Wiggling the tire from side to side at 3 and 9 is for the tie rod. But it is possible to have play that you can't reproduce this way. So also have someone gently rock the steering wheel back and forth while you look at all steering components for play. Typically any play that you can see this way or feel the other way is enough to warrant replacement.
#34
You have that backwards kinda. Joints like that wear in the direction that they are loaded, which is from left to right in a tie rod. Any play between the stud and the body of the joint is bad in this direction. There are some situations where up and down play if a tie rod is acceptable if there is no play in the direction of load. That being said, if you can achieve any play in any direction with your hands, I would replace the joint.
I forgot to mention with the balljoints. If you don't feel any play moving the tire, also put a pry bar under the tire and lift up on the tire and look for play that way. Sometimes the extra leverage is needed to reveal the movement. I would think though a 35" tire will give you enough leverage anyway.
I forgot to mention with the balljoints. If you don't feel any play moving the tire, also put a pry bar under the tire and lift up on the tire and look for play that way. Sometimes the extra leverage is needed to reveal the movement. I would think though a 35" tire will give you enough leverage anyway.
#35
If your within reasonable driving distance of Northwoods I'd have them do it
Where I live now there is no decent shop within driving distance
Hopefully we are moving back to Maine where there is a great shop who put on my dynatracs and 37's
Matthew
Where I live now there is no decent shop within driving distance
Hopefully we are moving back to Maine where there is a great shop who put on my dynatracs and 37's
Matthew
A lot of folks recommend the C gussets.
So I think it boils down to this:
There is NO mobile welding where I live period. My choices are 1) not do gussets 2) take my rig to 4wheelparts or to Northridge 4x4 and pay them to do all the work, in the $750 - $950 range or 3) get some inexpensive welding stuff from HF and try to do it myself 4) clean and deeply score the inner C and gussets and use the worlds strongest metal epoxy on it.
I can pay the high shop labor costs and sit in a lobby all day while they do it, or allow myself 2 days in my own driveway.
So I think it boils down to this:
There is NO mobile welding where I live period. My choices are 1) not do gussets 2) take my rig to 4wheelparts or to Northridge 4x4 and pay them to do all the work, in the $750 - $950 range or 3) get some inexpensive welding stuff from HF and try to do it myself 4) clean and deeply score the inner C and gussets and use the worlds strongest metal epoxy on it.
I can pay the high shop labor costs and sit in a lobby all day while they do it, or allow myself 2 days in my own driveway.