axle U-joints and ball joints shot
03-25-2010, 10:31 AM
#11
JK Jedi
The ProSteers have only been out a few weeks but we've already had some great feedback. Customers have told us that their steering wheel shimmy is gone and the whole front end feels much tighter and stable. Yes, they are expensive but they will be the last set you you ever need to buy.
03-25-2010, 01:16 PM
#12
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I just got my heep back from the piece of mind inspection and was told my ball joints an u-joints were on there way out as well!!!
The aftermarket serviceable balljoints appear to be all offset?
The aftermarket serviceable balljoints appear to be all offset?
03-25-2010, 03:20 PM
#14
Sponsoring Manufacturer
03-25-2010, 03:24 PM
#15
JK Jedi
03-26-2010, 08:52 AM
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03-26-2010, 09:43 AM
#18
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Anyone got a "write up" or dummy's guide to checking if your ball joints are bad? u-joints? Just had axles swapped for D44 rubis and wouldn't mind checking this out... These axles were used and I know they were wheeled before; not sure how many miles on them though. A 4WD shop installed them and didn't mention anything, so I am hoping that means I'm OK, but it could just mean they didn't really look closely enough to tell me...
FWIW, it drives better than it did before with new axles, lift, and 35s. I did have some abnormal tire wear on passenger side front stock BFG MT though when I removed it and odd shimmy at 50mph or so before the swap...
FWIW, it drives better than it did before with new axles, lift, and 35s. I did have some abnormal tire wear on passenger side front stock BFG MT though when I removed it and odd shimmy at 50mph or so before the swap...
Last edited by redrockin7; 03-26-2010 at 09:45 AM.
03-26-2010, 11:16 AM
#19
JK Jedi Master
Anyone got a "write up" or dummy's guide to checking if your ball joints are bad? u-joints? Just had axles swapped for D44 rubis and wouldn't mind checking this out... These axles were used and I know they were wheeled before; not sure how many miles on them though. A 4WD shop installed them and didn't mention anything, so I am hoping that means I'm OK, but it could just mean they didn't really look closely enough to tell me...
FWIW, it drives better than it did before with new axles, lift, and 35s. I did have some abnormal tire wear on passenger side front stock BFG MT though when I removed it and odd shimmy at 50mph or so before the swap...
FWIW, it drives better than it did before with new axles, lift, and 35s. I did have some abnormal tire wear on passenger side front stock BFG MT though when I removed it and odd shimmy at 50mph or so before the swap...
Jack the front tire off the ground.
Place a jack stand under the axle next to the jack.
Lower to put some weight on the jack stand.
Place a long pry bar under the tire.
Have someone pry the tire up and down while you watch the lower ball joint for up and down play.
Axial (up and down) movement in the lower ball joint should not exceed 0.050"
Have someone grab the tire at top and bottom to wiggle the top in and out while you watch the upper joint for side play.
Radial (side-to-side) movement in the upper ball joint should not exceed 0.060"
Even if the upper joint checks good, change both if the lower checks bad.
03-26-2010, 11:19 AM
#20
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Doesn't take much of a write-up.
Jack the front tire off the ground.
Place a jack stand under the axle next to the jack.
Lower to put some weight on the jack stand.
Place a long pry bar under the tire.
Have someone pry the tire up and down while you watch the lower ball joint for up and down play.
Axial (up and down) movement in the lower ball joint should not exceed 0.050"
Have someone grab the tire at top and bottom to wiggle the top in and out while you watch the upper joint for side play.
Radial (side-to-side) movement in the upper ball joint should not exceed 0.060"
Even if the upper joint checks good, change both if the lower checks bad.
Jack the front tire off the ground.
Place a jack stand under the axle next to the jack.
Lower to put some weight on the jack stand.
Place a long pry bar under the tire.
Have someone pry the tire up and down while you watch the lower ball joint for up and down play.
Axial (up and down) movement in the lower ball joint should not exceed 0.050"
Have someone grab the tire at top and bottom to wiggle the top in and out while you watch the upper joint for side play.
Radial (side-to-side) movement in the upper ball joint should not exceed 0.060"
Even if the upper joint checks good, change both if the lower checks bad.