Y, I think you need to maybe put the pen to paper and do a little comparison, especially since those 4.10s ain't gonna be the proper gear for your plans. Cost of a regear, cost of truss kit and parts combined with likely $2k or more selling that axle to someone else and put towards and aftermarket might make sense. You'd end up spending a little more than you intended, but what you would have would be a much better product. I ended up doing a final axle swap with a mated pair of dynatrac axles (PR44 unlimited up front with a Spyntec hub conversion and a full float PR60 in the rear). I say "mated pair cuz with the wheels bored out for the hubs and a 5x5.5" bolt pattern for the hub conversion and a rare 5x5.5 pattern on rear 60 it's all sort of a combo setup that is a bit of a cluster F. DT might not be what I would buy if just purchasing from scratch cuz I take issue with a few things, but these were from someone I knew, were practically brand new, and the price was absurdly low (wealthy guy was not concerned about funds at all). And yes, I did have a rubi locker crap out on me much really sux. In my case it was shit wave spring that failed and locker would not disengage on its own. Pretty frustrating to have a unit fail for what is probably a $4 part that can't be replaced.

 

I just sold a set of Rubi axles for $3900. Prices are starting to rise on them since nobody wants the JL axles. Its not close to buying 60's but is pretty good money for a set of factory 44's

 

https://fusion4x4.com/collections/je...rcial-shipping
I would recommend this set for up to a 38" tire.
https://fusion4x4.com/collections/je...ep-wrangler-jk
This kit for 40"+

Neither is need for a daily driver/weekend warrior though. Neither is 37" tires.

 

I appreciate the advise but a total axle swap is way above budget for me right now. I’m thinking maybe I’ll hold off on the truss, have a buddy weld on gussets for now just for cheap piece of mind, and see if I can find some aftermarket housings for cheap down the road. Really sounds like I should’ve saved the money and bought a sport model lol

 

If building big, a rubicon is not the best choice and certanly not a new one but you can run most trails out there on 35's and 4.10 gears on the rubicon and 2.5" of lift. The ones you are not going to be able to run are going to be steep waterfalls, and trails with rollover and body damage possibilities, most daily drivers/weekenders will avoid those trails anyway. I am not telling you to do an axle swap, my advise was to stay on 35's drop down to 2.5" coils and add C gussets.

 

yeah I’m certainly not risking rollovers, though I do love the big rock climbs. Dropping my lift down is not an option without replacing the whole long arm kit. I have a 4.5” metal cloak kit and when buying I asked if I could could in for a 2 door instead of a 4 door so then it would be closer to 4”-3.75” but was advised that would mess up the geometry. I went with the 4.5” in the end and while it’s a great and reliable kit, I wish I was a little lower. I can’t even change the OEM fender flares out because the additional clearance would make my 35s look small and stupid
would you recommend putting $100 into sleeving the front? I know nitro has the pound in kit but not sure how well that actually works

 

Sleeves are not worth the money either. The only geometry issues you would have by dropping down would be with the rear drop brackets (don't need) and you would have to come up with different frame mounts.
I am not a great fan of the long arm kit (or anyone elses), I would save the money and just run the short arm kit they have. No real benifit except for a slighly better on road ride and you loose clearance on the trails. I also perfer 4 mounts holding the front axle on vs 2.

 

Just my 2c, I had a lot of problems with Revolution rear shafts. Runout was bad on three of them and the customer service was awful. Also, their 'lifetime warranty' turned out to be one shaft, once, at great expense. I switched to Ten Factory and have had zero issues since.

Also, I've been on long arms, 37s, and reinforced 44s for six years now (Artec rear truss btw), daily driver with a few trips a year wheeling. It may not be ideal, but it can get you by for a while.

 

thanks for the input. I know the rear shafts are all around the same price so I’ll look into it. It sounds like we have the same driving to wheeling ratio, and I’m not willing to put 10k into axles for that

 

Another option is to buy a bare ProRock 44 housing and swap in your internals. I would definitely re-gear for the 37's at this time, but you can retain the factory E locker. Chromoly or RCV shafts would be a nice upgrade as well. You can get the Dynatrac ball joints already pressed on, and they are they are much better than stock and rebuildable.