Axle trusses: Artec or Evo?
#11
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I have not regeared it yet as I’m pretty happy with the 4.10s for now because of the better mileage when DD. Like I said I know it’ll be the weak link in everything so it has been being considered to go to 4.56 or 4.88. I know a lot of people also say the rubi locker is weak too, did you end up changing yours or did you swap it into your better housing?
Last edited by resharp001; 10-17-2021 at 06:51 AM.
#12
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I just sold a set of Rubi axles for $3900. Prices are starting to rise on them since nobody wants the JL axles. Its not close to buying 60's but is pretty good money for a set of factory 44's
#13
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https://fusion4x4.com/collections/je...rcial-shipping
I would recommend this set for up to a 38" tire.
https://fusion4x4.com/collections/je...ep-wrangler-jk
This kit for 40"+
Neither is need for a daily driver/weekend warrior though. Neither is 37" tires.
I would recommend this set for up to a 38" tire.
https://fusion4x4.com/collections/je...ep-wrangler-jk
This kit for 40"+
Neither is need for a daily driver/weekend warrior though. Neither is 37" tires.
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https://fusion4x4.com/collections/je...rcial-shipping
I would recommend this set for up to a 38" tire.
https://fusion4x4.com/collections/je...ep-wrangler-jk
This kit for 40"+
Neither is need for a daily driver/weekend warrior though. Neither is 37" tires.
I would recommend this set for up to a 38" tire.
https://fusion4x4.com/collections/je...ep-wrangler-jk
This kit for 40"+
Neither is need for a daily driver/weekend warrior though. Neither is 37" tires.
#15
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If building big, a rubicon is not the best choice and certanly not a new one but you can run most trails out there on 35's and 4.10 gears on the rubicon and 2.5" of lift. The ones you are not going to be able to run are going to be steep waterfalls, and trails with rollover and body damage possibilities, most daily drivers/weekenders will avoid those trails anyway. I am not telling you to do an axle swap, my advise was to stay on 35's drop down to 2.5" coils and add C gussets.
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If building big, a rubicon is not the best choice and certanly not a new one but you can run most trails out there on 35's and 4.10 gears on the rubicon and 2.5" of lift. The ones you are not going to be able to run are going to be steep waterfalls, and trails with rollover and body damage possibilities, most daily drivers/weekenders will avoid those trails anyway. I am not telling you to do an axle swap, my advise was to stay on 35's drop down to 2.5" coils and add C gussets.
would you recommend putting $100 into sleeving the front? I know nitro has the pound in kit but not sure how well that actually works
#17
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Sleeves are not worth the money either. The only geometry issues you would have by dropping down would be with the rear drop brackets (don't need) and you would have to come up with different frame mounts.
I am not a great fan of the long arm kit (or anyone elses), I would save the money and just run the short arm kit they have. No real benifit except for a slighly better on road ride and you loose clearance on the trails. I also perfer 4 mounts holding the front axle on vs 2.
I am not a great fan of the long arm kit (or anyone elses), I would save the money and just run the short arm kit they have. No real benifit except for a slighly better on road ride and you loose clearance on the trails. I also perfer 4 mounts holding the front axle on vs 2.
#18
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Just my 2c, I had a lot of problems with Revolution rear shafts. Runout was bad on three of them and the customer service was awful. Also, their 'lifetime warranty' turned out to be one shaft, once, at great expense. I switched to Ten Factory and have had zero issues since.
Also, I've been on long arms, 37s, and reinforced 44s for six years now (Artec rear truss btw), daily driver with a few trips a year wheeling. It may not be ideal, but it can get you by for a while.
Also, I've been on long arms, 37s, and reinforced 44s for six years now (Artec rear truss btw), daily driver with a few trips a year wheeling. It may not be ideal, but it can get you by for a while.
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Just my 2c, I had a lot of problems with Revolution rear shafts. Runout was bad on three of them and the customer service was awful. Also, their 'lifetime warranty' turned out to be one shaft, once, at great expense. I switched to Ten Factory and have had zero issues since.
Also, I've been on long arms, 37s, and reinforced 44s for six years now (Artec rear truss btw), daily driver with a few trips a year wheeling. It may not be ideal, but it can get you by for a while.
Also, I've been on long arms, 37s, and reinforced 44s for six years now (Artec rear truss btw), daily driver with a few trips a year wheeling. It may not be ideal, but it can get you by for a while.
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Another option is to buy a bare ProRock 44 housing and swap in your internals. I would definitely re-gear for the 37's at this time, but you can retain the factory E locker. Chromoly or RCV shafts would be a nice upgrade as well. You can get the Dynatrac ball joints already pressed on, and they are they are much better than stock and rebuildable.