which axle sleeve is better ?
#21
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So what purpose do the plug welds serve other than keeping the sleeve from sliding around? Correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't you creating a weak point when you drill multiple holes along the length of housing? Serious question because I wasn't super great with physics ( many moons ago even )
#22
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it will keep the axle from twisting around the sleeve and possibly still breaking. It ties them together. Your axles come with fill weld to the differential. If welded properly it will not weaken anything, just make the axle tubes stronger.
#23
How does the axle TUBE twist around the sleeve when they are joined (either by interference fit or welding) and there is no opposing force on the sleeve?
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6 or so holes on long side 3" apart rotate 90 degrees of each other anymore is over kill---
A weld is not a weak link a discontinuity is, ie porosity, suck back, not cleaning the area before hand introduces contaminates into weld which males for a weak link....
6 or so long side 3 on short side...chamfer the end at a 45 degree angle and weld around to axle tube end...
ALWAYS MAKE SURE TO CLEAN WELD AREA, AND NOT WITH BRAKE CKEANER BECAUSE OF FUMES...
Notro sleeves have a larger ID than the rest they pound in and are knurled, the rest are weld in...
I prefer self in bit of I were to do a nitro sleeve because I want 35 spoken rcv axles I'd grind it with a flap disc as to reduce a smidge of the OD so I can slide them in and weld up....
Welding around d the tube 90 degrees of each other doesn't allow it to loac the tube with stress and twist.
A weld is not a weak link a discontinuity is, ie porosity, suck back, not cleaning the area before hand introduces contaminates into weld which males for a weak link....
6 or so long side 3 on short side...chamfer the end at a 45 degree angle and weld around to axle tube end...
ALWAYS MAKE SURE TO CLEAN WELD AREA, AND NOT WITH BRAKE CKEANER BECAUSE OF FUMES...
Notro sleeves have a larger ID than the rest they pound in and are knurled, the rest are weld in...
I prefer self in bit of I were to do a nitro sleeve because I want 35 spoken rcv axles I'd grind it with a flap disc as to reduce a smidge of the OD so I can slide them in and weld up....
Welding around d the tube 90 degrees of each other doesn't allow it to loac the tube with stress and twist.
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6 or so holes on long side 3" apart rotate 90 degrees of each other anymore is over kill---
A weld is not a weak link a discontinuity is, ie porosity, suck back, not cleaning the area before hand introduces contaminates into weld which males for a weak link....
6 or so long side 3 on short side...chamfer the end at a 45 degree angle and weld around to axle tube end...
ALWAYS MAKE SURE TO CLEAN WELD AREA, AND NOT WITH BRAKE CKEANER BECAUSE OF FUMES...
Notro sleeves have a larger ID than the rest they pound in and are knurled, the rest are weld in...
I prefer self in bit of I were to do a nitro sleeve because I want 35 spoken rcv axles I'd grind it with a flap disc as to reduce a smidge of the OD so I can slide them in and weld up....
Welding around d the tube 90 degrees of each other doesn't allow it to loac the tube with stress and twist.
A weld is not a weak link a discontinuity is, ie porosity, suck back, not cleaning the area before hand introduces contaminates into weld which males for a weak link....
6 or so long side 3 on short side...chamfer the end at a 45 degree angle and weld around to axle tube end...
ALWAYS MAKE SURE TO CLEAN WELD AREA, AND NOT WITH BRAKE CKEANER BECAUSE OF FUMES...
Notro sleeves have a larger ID than the rest they pound in and are knurled, the rest are weld in...
I prefer self in bit of I were to do a nitro sleeve because I want 35 spoken rcv axles I'd grind it with a flap disc as to reduce a smidge of the OD so I can slide them in and weld up....
Welding around d the tube 90 degrees of each other doesn't allow it to loac the tube with stress and twist.
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Wow that's the last time I try a long response on my broken phone...screen is cracked and touch doesnt input quite right...lol
My response earlier has TYPOFEVER.....sorry for that guys glad people sort of understood....
My response earlier has TYPOFEVER.....sorry for that guys glad people sort of understood....
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What is going to be the easiest way to clean the rust,debris,rats,etc out of the axle housing ? I was thinking maybe an emory wheel or whire wheel and drill then blow it out with an airgun from the diff side. An extension can probably be made from a piece of allthread.
#29
Likely, most of your rust buildup is going to be in the first foot or so unless you do a lot of wet stuff.
Fabricate with a longer rod (I only have this pic from another project); cut a slit on the end of the rod and insert a strip of emery cloth . With a brakeclean soaked rag tightly wrapped around and long rod (that allthread you mentioned is what I used for this + zipties), I went around the axle tube wiping/pulling out the rust/debris (not stuffing it back in, thin set up). After, stuff a clean rag down the axle tube (again, brakeclean) to keep debris out of the seal and diff and then run your "flapper" down the tube with your air grinder or whatever you use to spin it at a pretty good rate. Just cleaning the surface for a good prep, not trying to remove metal, etc.
Reach in with a wire with a bent end and retrieve the rag you stuff earlier and that will pull the debris you created with it. Set up the axle with a heater while assuming you had the sleeves sit in a freezer overnight.
Pull them out of the freezer and without delay, pound in, should just take a few taps.
And do your gussets and ball joints while you're there.
Fabricate with a longer rod (I only have this pic from another project); cut a slit on the end of the rod and insert a strip of emery cloth . With a brakeclean soaked rag tightly wrapped around and long rod (that allthread you mentioned is what I used for this + zipties), I went around the axle tube wiping/pulling out the rust/debris (not stuffing it back in, thin set up). After, stuff a clean rag down the axle tube (again, brakeclean) to keep debris out of the seal and diff and then run your "flapper" down the tube with your air grinder or whatever you use to spin it at a pretty good rate. Just cleaning the surface for a good prep, not trying to remove metal, etc.
Reach in with a wire with a bent end and retrieve the rag you stuff earlier and that will pull the debris you created with it. Set up the axle with a heater while assuming you had the sleeves sit in a freezer overnight.
Pull them out of the freezer and without delay, pound in, should just take a few taps.
And do your gussets and ball joints while you're there.
Last edited by fredrok; 09-08-2013 at 08:39 AM.