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Axle Question

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Old 07-08-2016, 06:10 AM
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Alright so I've been starting to do my homework on swapping out my axles now that I'm doing more rock crawling and stepping up to 37s.

Not sure if I will find a set from a junkyard or go with a new set but in my research I've been seeing a lot of after market axles have manual locking hubs.

What I can't figure out is why does someone want (or need) locking hubs if they have selectable lockers. Any tech guys know the answer?

Last edited by bob987909; 07-08-2016 at 06:14 AM.
Old 07-08-2016, 06:23 AM
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A lock out hub allows you to disconnect the front end when driving on the road in 2wd to get better gas mileage, less wear on the front drive lines and transfer case, allows you to run with an out of balance front driveshaft. If you should break a axle shaft you simple disconnect the front end instead of having to pull the shaft to run home.
Old 07-08-2016, 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by TheDirtman
A lock out hub allows you to disconnect the front end when driving on the road in 2wd to get better gas mileage, less wear on the front drive lines and transfer case, allows you to run with an out of balance front driveshaft. If you should break a axle shaft you simple disconnect the front end instead of having to pull the shaft to run home.
Thanks for the help! I figured it was something like that. I don't know if it justifies the added cost though....

I've had to pull my stock shaft on a trail and it wasn't too much of a pain
Old 07-08-2016, 06:37 AM
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I don't know if its the crew I wheel with but the Majority of them run Warn Manual hubs in the front. So naturally my end game goal is to go with that. I think I overheard one of my guys talking about if you strip a shaft you can just manually unlock them and limp it to the shop or trailer where you have base camp.
Old 07-08-2016, 06:41 AM
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Also every time I ride bitch. I'm the one who has to get out and Turn them on and off. What really messes me up is some are 1/2 turn 1/4 turn and full turn. I always ask when I'm turning hubs on just to make sure.
Old 07-08-2016, 01:17 PM
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Manual hubs are the way to go. You also gain serviceable parts in the end instead of just replace the unit bearing. I've got too many miles to justify the cost to go to manual hubs and the 5*5.5" lug pattern otherwise it'd be on my doorstep already.

Depending on how hard you wheel, realistically, Yukon makes a kit that will 'fail' in the locked position so you're not left on the trail with 3 wheel drive.
Old 07-09-2016, 03:38 AM
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Originally Posted by karls10jk
Manual hubs are the way to go. You also gain serviceable parts in the end instead of just replace the unit bearing. I've got too many miles to justify the cost to go to manual hubs and the 5*5.5" lug pattern otherwise it'd be on my doorstep already.

Depending on how hard you wheel, realistically, Yukon makes a kit that will 'fail' in the locked position so you're not left on the trail with 3 wheel drive.
In my area we have a lot of water crossings. How do they last after a few of those? Would they need to be serviced after each crossing?
Old 07-09-2016, 03:47 AM
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The ones I've rebuilt have an o-ring that seals the crap out and the ends are slam full of grease so it takes a lot to ruin them. I never had any issues out of the ones I've run. I've had them on 4 different Ford trucks and converted one of them from auto hubs to manual.

The only part that does suck is if you're driving along thinking things are going great and you drop into a mud hole, then you have to reach down and lock the hub as opposed to just pulling the lever. The same applies to cold/ wet weather use too. Thinking ahead eliminates that issue.
Old 07-09-2016, 06:19 AM
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And in the winter you may need to carry a propane touch. The lock switch tends to freeze up and you need to thaw them out in order to lock the hubs.
Old 07-09-2016, 06:22 AM
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or when it gets cold you can simply leaved them locked in and use the stick inside to engage the front wheel drive.


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