Which Axle Assembly
#31
Super Moderator
Sounds expensive. I know you mentioned earlier for 35s you would recommend going 4in wider than stock. Seeing as though many of us are just talking about replacing the front axle, wouldn't going that route also require a rear axle replacement with that added width as well as new wheels with less back spacing to gain the reduced stress you mentioned?
#32
JK Jedi
No, you would make up the rear width with adapters. You would be able to run the factory wheels with the wider axle and if moving to 37's would be in the cards then you would do new wheel with 4.5"-5.5" of back spacing. Then after running 37's and braking axle shafts when you upgrade the rear to a 60 (most are min 68") your front would match the rear.
You have to think down the road instead of buying the cheapest thing available right now or you make expensive mistakes.
And again I totally recommend against buying a 44 front for the front the uses the factory unit bearings. Either get a 60 or a 44/60 hybrid that has the 60 outers with lock out hubs and big brakes.
You have to think down the road instead of buying the cheapest thing available right now or you make expensive mistakes.
And again I totally recommend against buying a 44 front for the front the uses the factory unit bearings. Either get a 60 or a 44/60 hybrid that has the 60 outers with lock out hubs and big brakes.
#33
Because it runs the stock knuckles, stock brakes and the BBK work just fine. I had stock brakes in it for a couple of months then installed the Mopar BBK that is currently on it now.
My combination is the Core 44, 4.56 gears {if I knew I was going to eventually be on 37's, I would have gone 4.88's), ARB and RCV axles. It was right at $5K when done. Mainly due to the RCV's.
My combination is the Core 44, 4.56 gears {if I knew I was going to eventually be on 37's, I would have gone 4.88's), ARB and RCV axles. It was right at $5K when done. Mainly due to the RCV's.
Last edited by cranbiz; 11-27-2019 at 09:24 AM.
#34
JK Newbie