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Which Axle Assembly

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Old 11-10-2019, 07:27 AM
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Default Which Axle Assembly

So after weeks of reading I’m still undecided. I have a 2016 Willy’s wheeler JKU. I really want to build it in a logical way so I don’t waste time and money on replacing parts multiple times or major break downs on trails. End goal is 4.56-4.88 gears with 34-35” tires on a DD I can take on long weekend camping/off-roading. With a 2.5-3” lift. Mostly trails and mud driving with some hills and rock when I can find them. So I’m trying to decide which way to build my axle assemblies. Here are the options as I see it. Feel free to add another one if you want.

Run what you got. I could reinforce my D30 throw in a lunch box locker and try not to break it. Cheap quick and I could do it right away.

Factory Rubicon D44. Buy a set of take offs. Reinforce them and upgrade to more aggressive lockers later. Stronger than D30 but not a lot. I’d get 4.10 gears and lockers better in the short term but still need upgraded to get to my goals.

Aftermarket front assembly. I can pick exactly what I want. I really think it will be plenty strong for what I need. I’d have to regear rear axle at the same time. I’d be stuck with factory rear axle and lsd. At least for awhile.

Im kinds leaning towards getting some take off rubi axles and just building them into what I want over time. Is there much of a advantage of a Rubi rear D44 over my stock one besides the locker.

Thanks
Old 11-10-2019, 08:29 AM
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As someone who started on a D30 and then swapped to Rubi axles which I built up, I'd say that outside of ponying up for an aftermarket axle, there's not a clearcut answer. A lot depends on your intended use, and your ability. If you can't weld and build the axle yourself, then building a Rubi D44 makes no sense cuz by the time you pay for all the welding labor, you're in it for the same price as a PR44 and you STILL have a weaker axle. That is not to say that a Rubi 44 wouldn't work for you, just something to consider. One thing to keep in mind, especially in the rear is that a Rubi 44 rear e-locker is 32-spline. When that craps out and you have to replace the locker, your choices are limited to another rubi 2-pin e-locker, or upgrading to a 35 spline and buying new axle shafts as well. It's actually better to have a non-rubi rear axle that you just upgrade to start with IMO. You also run in to other little nuances like this.....want to outboard some new shock mounts?...well, the gussets get in the way so they prevent you from doing so which forces you to continue forward with additional bracketry.

The weak point in all the axles is going to be ball joints. I'd say with a D30 or a Rubi 44, throw gussets on, plan on BJ replacement, outboard the shocks and go have fun. If you can afford it and you plan to have the jeep a long time, look for a PR44. Think of it as something you could sell later down the road if needed more than wasted funds.

Unfortunately, outside of a large cash expenditure, there's not a perfect solution to the axle upgrade dilemma.

Last edited by resharp001; 11-10-2019 at 08:35 AM.
Old 11-10-2019, 08:43 AM
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Default Thanks resharp001

That’s some good info I really appreciate it. I’ll have to look into outboarding the shock also not something I’m really familiar with. I was wondering if a rear Rubi axle assembly was a good upgrade sounds like it’s a mixed bag lol
Old 11-10-2019, 08:49 AM
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You might not need it with 2.5" lift, but often what you find is that when the front end articulates, the shock bodies will rub against the frame rail....so you move them out a bit for clearance. Again, may or may not be relevant to your particular build, but you run in to little things like that. I probably have a ton more to say than my original post....but it's one of those things where there's so much to say it's hard to capture everything at once.
Old 11-10-2019, 05:31 PM
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What you upgrade to relates to your intended use, are you putting more power in the Jeep and your driving habits. Some guys can have fun with an LS 6.2 in a Jeep with stock axles and not break them. Others, can most likely break a D60 with a stock motor.
Old 11-20-2019, 08:30 PM
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Still kicking this around. Sounds like the aftermarket D44 front is the way I should go. I just have trouble justifying the cost. Especially to replace a part that currently works fine. Any suggestions on what brand to get and where to get the best price. Seems like there quite a few options.
Old 11-20-2019, 10:43 PM
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The Dana Ultimate 44 is an upgrade over the rubi front axle. Decent price, but arguably not in the same league as the PR or Tera options. Another to look at is the G2 Core 44. Prices seem to be lower than PR/Tera from what I remember, and G2 offers rebates every so often. (think the last rebate period was in July?)

One thing you might do is check out Northridge4x4, they have a nice axle builder where you start with the empty housing and then add your specific choices for gears/locker/shafts/ball joints/etc. It's nice to see how the various options affect the overall price, and makes for a better apples to apples comparison between mfg's.
Old 11-21-2019, 04:23 AM
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Are you in a hurry to get this done? I ask because I wheel with 35's on my d30 and it's fine. I've got 3.73's and open diffs. I've replaced the ball joints, added c gussets, and did small skid plates for the front lower control arm mounts. When it dies then I can move the ball joints to another axle and keep playing. No reason to start replacing it right now.
Old 11-21-2019, 04:54 AM
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I'm gonna throw one more option out there for you. Regear, add a locker to the rear, and go enjoy it. The rear locker will make a big difference, you buy yourself a lot of time to really upgrade the front, and although you're probably having to put $750 in the front to regear it, if it gets you a couple years of use then that's not too big of a cost to have a 4WD jeep that gets you out playing around. The problem with any D30 is just putting too much money into it. I'd say $750 to regear that front while just leaving it open isn't the end of the world. You may need to replace ball joints at some point, but it's a wear item just as it would be on a D44. Maybe later on you upgrade the front axle to an aftermarket housing, and can always keep your eyes peeled on craigslist and the forum classified sections for a deal.
Old 11-21-2019, 07:29 AM
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Thanks for the advice guys. I’m not in a big hurry. Just thought if I new what I wanted I might find a good Black Friday deal. But there is plenty of other stuff to spend my money on right now.

I have the factory trac-loc in the back axle. That is still working fine. That’s why I wanted to focus more on the front. I just hate to spend money on building up an axle then replace it a year later.

After talking with my wife. I think I’m going to keep my build a little more mild for now and spend more on taking it out on long week ends.

Currently I’m looking to install.
Mopar 2” lift with geo bracket from AEV
new 295/70/17 MT tires and rims
brake lines.
Probably should add C brackets and more skid plates

Just installed a Flashpaq.
Heated seats
Bolt upgrade


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