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ARB Lockers?

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Old 08-24-2013, 08:27 PM
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Default ARB Lockers?

I want to re-gear my 08 Wrangler X for obvious reasons, so 4.10's or 4.56's??? also wanted to see about getting front and rear ARB lockers as well, is there one way to do this or just piece it together?
Old 08-24-2013, 08:51 PM
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What size tires are you running or plan to run? Best to have a locker installed with gears so you are not paying labor twice.
Old 08-24-2013, 09:15 PM
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Measure your tires (measured, not mfg's spec) and plug some numbers into the chart in the faq's. Any plans of going to taller tires? Typical freeway speeds? Mostly flat roads at sea level? etc, etc...

What do you mean by one way to do ARB's? Adding lockers at the same time as gears saves on labor costs. You can lock one end at a time, or do both together. You can get lockers to fit your current shafts, or you can move up to lockers/shafts of a higher spline count for added strength.

Any plans for strengthening the front housing? Considering new shafts or balljoints? Do you 'need' thousand dollar selectables, or would something lower cost be ok? Any thoughts at all of moving to a front 44 or 60? (add up the installed costs of whatever you have planned and see where you'll end up, you just might surprise yourself with the total.)
Old 08-24-2013, 09:41 PM
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I just got done with the same project on mine. I did 4.88 with 35" tires, Yukon zip locker on the rear. I avoided a front locker on my Dana 30 when I saw how tiny the ring and pinion were. A lot of people run them but I was afraid to risk it.
Old 09-03-2013, 07:18 PM
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Sorry, I've been away. I have 33" BFG's right now. I'm stationed in San Diego area right now and I really enjoy crawling I just don't have the low end that I want it lockers period. I will be moving soon and am not sure of where yet, so that poses a small complication in my planning for all this. Do I really NEED ARB's, probably not but I really WANT them. It's not a good idea to put a locker on. Dana 30 though? that's the kinda info I was looking for. I could always just regear both and just get a locker in the rear for now. I know it's going to cost a lot, I ball parked it at $1000 per locker, $1000 per axle for labor, $400 for both info and pinion gears total, and around $300 for the compressor/tank/lines.... I didn't have any plans to switch out the front axle because I've read about them and I've seen a lot of people saying that these new Dana 30's are a lot stronger than previous ones; is this true? I'm not sure. long term I plan on turning this wrangler into a weekend warrior and get a small car to putt back/forth to work in, but or now I think I wanna go with 4.10's but I don't know a lot about it all, that's why I'm seeing what everyone thinks. Thanks again
Old 09-03-2013, 07:21 PM
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and I do plan of going up to 35's eventually, but not quite yet.
Old 09-03-2013, 07:26 PM
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Dahmer, how is that Yukon treating you? are they air activated as well?
Old 09-03-2013, 07:28 PM
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I would recommend going the used Rubi axles if you want 4:10's and lockers. You get a larger more durable gear set in the front and the rear rubi axle has larger carrier bearings and both have more splines on the axles. typically a front axles goes for 2,000 to 3,000 and a rear for 800 to 1,000. So if you shop around you can get them for 3,000 and a few hours to swap out and wire the lockers and your ready to go. Since you have an 08 you can get the wire harness and switch for the dash and its all plug and play too! I did this on my 11 sport and it was great. You still need to put gussets on either so that shouldn't be a factor
Old 09-03-2013, 07:43 PM
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Gear for the tire size you are going to end up with. Cruising with high rpm's for a while beats kicking yourself in the ass when you decide you need to regear it a second time.

My understanding of the two lockers is that the ARBs originally had a 2-pin design, and eventually it was upgraded to a stronger 4-pin design. At some point, Yukon copied the old 2-pin design and started producing it under their name. So, they are both actually 'arb' air lockers. The yukon is less expensive. The ARB has arguably the stronger design. (whether or not it would ever be an issue to most of us, no clue). And there are some indications that the Yukon may be made with inferior metal. Check for a youtube video - may or may not be accurate, but it's an interesting watch.

Personally I would not drop a thousand dollar selectable into a d30. Look at an Aussie lunchbox if you want a locker. Or look at a Detroit Truetrac, which is my favorite traction device for these 30's. (depending on your usage, a pair of truetracs may be very hard to beat)
Old 09-03-2013, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Kalitri35
Dahmer, how is that Yukon treating you? are they air activated as well?
It works great its similar to the arb in fact it is a clone of a previous model arb. They are air lockers like the arb. I was sceptical but the guy that did my gears is an authorized dealer and it comes with a lot better warranty than arb. I got the extended warranty for free since he is a dealer that includes free labor to do repairs. I would recommend them for the price, performance, and warranty.


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