Anyone running the Rugged Ridge Engine/Trans Skid on a 13' Rubicon?
03-14-2014, 06:35 AM
#11
Install problem
Ok, so the install went fairly well. not as well as my MOPAR front skid, but I'd say 90% successful.
Issue 1: The large center rear hole of the skid did not line up with the hole on my under transfer case support bracket.
not a big deal bolted the skid up solid everywhere and drilled the hole out a bit. Then the bolt went in kind of crooked, but it's locked down now.
If I didn't have the factory transfer skid (Do only Rubicons have this?) I may not have bothered w/the center hole.
OK, now the bigger issue, which may be my fault, but the instructions were not clear.
I noticed the bolt that attached the hanger brackets to the engine mount brackets, when tightened, makes contact with the ENGINE mounts. so, what's happening is the vibration from the engine is now being directly transmitted to the frame and new skid plate...
Did I install them backwards? should I remove the bolts, cut them shorter (or buy new), and install back?
Removing and reinstalling means they shouldn't move any, so that sounds easy enough.
Did anyone else run into this? The vibration isn't killer, but is certainly there. I can feel it at idle, and especially when the JK upshifts too soon... (anyone have a programmer that can changes shift points)?!
thanks guys.
I'd also be curious if you could shorten the front hanger mounts say.. 1"? the skid is great and beefy and the what not, but I feel like I lost 2" of clearance under my oil pan!
Issue 1: The large center rear hole of the skid did not line up with the hole on my under transfer case support bracket.
not a big deal bolted the skid up solid everywhere and drilled the hole out a bit. Then the bolt went in kind of crooked, but it's locked down now.
If I didn't have the factory transfer skid (Do only Rubicons have this?) I may not have bothered w/the center hole.
OK, now the bigger issue, which may be my fault, but the instructions were not clear.
I noticed the bolt that attached the hanger brackets to the engine mount brackets, when tightened, makes contact with the ENGINE mounts. so, what's happening is the vibration from the engine is now being directly transmitted to the frame and new skid plate...
Did I install them backwards? should I remove the bolts, cut them shorter (or buy new), and install back?
Removing and reinstalling means they shouldn't move any, so that sounds easy enough.
Did anyone else run into this? The vibration isn't killer, but is certainly there. I can feel it at idle, and especially when the JK upshifts too soon... (anyone have a programmer that can changes shift points)?!
thanks guys.
I'd also be curious if you could shorten the front hanger mounts say.. 1"? the skid is great and beefy and the what not, but I feel like I lost 2" of clearance under my oil pan!
03-14-2014, 06:43 AM
#12
pics
Photos
Note the overly exposed auto cooling line, and the plastic looking transmission pan...
note the lost ground clearance under the oil pan.
I'd be fine if the skid was angled down towards the center of the jeep (across ways).
the whole thing is on an angle. the new skid doesn't have to be 'level'... it should be higher at the front.
Note the overly exposed auto cooling line, and the plastic looking transmission pan...
note the lost ground clearance under the oil pan.
I'd be fine if the skid was angled down towards the center of the jeep (across ways).
the whole thing is on an angle. the new skid doesn't have to be 'level'... it should be higher at the front.
Last edited by SabrToothSqrl; 03-14-2014 at 06:48 AM.
03-14-2014, 06:52 AM
#13
clearance
the more I look at this pic, the more I feel like I lost a TON of ground clearance here...
I'll measure tonight, but the skid looks almost even w/the freaking axle!
http://www.quadratec.com/Assets/Installation/153437.pdf
Page 3, figure 7 is exactly what I'm talking about. MORE has provided much better / clearer instructions than rugged ridge has...
I'll measure tonight, but the skid looks almost even w/the freaking axle!
http://www.quadratec.com/Assets/Installation/153437.pdf
Page 3, figure 7 is exactly what I'm talking about. MORE has provided much better / clearer instructions than rugged ridge has...
Last edited by SabrToothSqrl; 03-14-2014 at 07:04 AM.
03-16-2014, 10:30 AM
#14
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Just installed mine today, not so bad but as everyone mentions the rear bolt hole doesn't line up (PIA but I drilled it out).
Hind sight being 20/20 I would not have installed this skid plate. I bought an engine skid from I think a 2011 Rubicon off Ebay which was bigger than the 2012 Rubicon engine skid (bar). I think the 2011 engine guard was fine and with this skid I lost the side protection because I couldn't re-use the 2011 or 2012 engine skid.
Hind sight being 20/20 I would not have installed this skid plate. I bought an engine skid from I think a 2011 Rubicon off Ebay which was bigger than the 2012 Rubicon engine skid (bar). I think the 2011 engine guard was fine and with this skid I lost the side protection because I couldn't re-use the 2011 or 2012 engine skid.
03-17-2014, 04:15 AM
#15
fixed - mostly.
Well, I used smaller bolts to hold the brackets to the motor mounts. this allowed me to go bolt down, so the bolts are not contacting the engine and the vibration issues are now fixed.
I measured from my oil pan to the new skid... 5".
I LOST FIVE INCHES of ground clearance.
that's HUGE.
that's like a water buffalo many.
is everyone else losing this much clearance under their engine oil pan skid?!
I'd be ok with 2-3... but 5?!
I'd like to shorten the front 'arms' on it 2", but I don't want to royally F' it up either...
I measured from my oil pan to the new skid... 5".
I LOST FIVE INCHES of ground clearance.
that's HUGE.
that's like a water buffalo many.
is everyone else losing this much clearance under their engine oil pan skid?!
I'd be ok with 2-3... but 5?!
I'd like to shorten the front 'arms' on it 2", but I don't want to royally F' it up either...
03-18-2014, 07:20 AM
#16
ticket
I opened a 'ticket' with their support..
A customer support staff member has replied to your support request, #XXXXX with the following response:
Hello XXXX,
I apologize you had some install troubles! We could have replaced the unit had we been contacted, but I am glad to see if you have it installed. The distance you are seeing between the pan and skid is normal and this is unfortunately the spec they are all designed against. I can gladly send your complaint of lost ground clearance to the engineering team for them to be aware of though if they are not!
We hope this response has sufficiently answered your questions. If not, please do not send another email. Instead, reply to this email or login to your account for a complete archive of all your support requests and responses.
Apparently it's within spec, but I think I can make it better... if I shorten the front arms by cutting 1-2" off them, the skid would slant to the center skid... i'd gain a few inches under the front, and as any girl will tell you, a few inches can make all the difference
A customer support staff member has replied to your support request, #XXXXX with the following response:
Hello XXXX,
I apologize you had some install troubles! We could have replaced the unit had we been contacted, but I am glad to see if you have it installed. The distance you are seeing between the pan and skid is normal and this is unfortunately the spec they are all designed against. I can gladly send your complaint of lost ground clearance to the engineering team for them to be aware of though if they are not!
We hope this response has sufficiently answered your questions. If not, please do not send another email. Instead, reply to this email or login to your account for a complete archive of all your support requests and responses.
Apparently it's within spec, but I think I can make it better... if I shorten the front arms by cutting 1-2" off them, the skid would slant to the center skid... i'd gain a few inches under the front, and as any girl will tell you, a few inches can make all the difference