Anyone running 35s on stock gears...
12-24-2009, 09:52 AM
#31
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I have been running 35's on the stock 410's for over two years. Not the greatest on the highway(usually turn off OD when towing) but other than that, it works. Reprogramed and things got better. As far as gas mileage? wouldn't have bought a jeep if I was that concerned about it. Get on the average 15.5 highway and 13.5 city.
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12-24-2009, 12:56 PM
#33
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I believe the reason this question is asked it because people want to know if they will need to save money for 35's and gears at the same time. And it is my humble opinion that you can with out a doubt get your 35's and stick with stock gears for as long as you want with out any undo problems (within reason).
And if I may play devil's advocate for a second one reason not to re-gear could be if you want to switch tire sizes throughout the year. For example, you live in a snowy enviroment and want to run winter tires, well you will find it harder to find 35" winter tires. So if you wanted to run smaller winter tires you could do so with out problem. Running smaller then 35" tires with taller gears would not be very good. Or maybe you're going on a cross country road trip and don't require your heavy 35" Toyo mud tires to goto grandma's house, you can throw on your stockers.
Again I'm not saying gear don't drastically improve your performance, just 35" tires and gears do not go hand in hand. ( Like say > 4.5 lift on a 2 dr REQUIRES new drive shafts)
So guys get your 35's and drive around, maybe you'll be like me and still enjoy the ride maybe you'll be like others and hate it, if that's the case save your pennies and get gears.
Merry Christmas Everyone, hope you all find nice Jeep toys under your tree.
And if I may play devil's advocate for a second one reason not to re-gear could be if you want to switch tire sizes throughout the year. For example, you live in a snowy enviroment and want to run winter tires, well you will find it harder to find 35" winter tires. So if you wanted to run smaller winter tires you could do so with out problem. Running smaller then 35" tires with taller gears would not be very good. Or maybe you're going on a cross country road trip and don't require your heavy 35" Toyo mud tires to goto grandma's house, you can throw on your stockers.
Again I'm not saying gear don't drastically improve your performance, just 35" tires and gears do not go hand in hand. ( Like say > 4.5 lift on a 2 dr REQUIRES new drive shafts)
So guys get your 35's and drive around, maybe you'll be like me and still enjoy the ride maybe you'll be like others and hate it, if that's the case save your pennies and get gears.
Merry Christmas Everyone, hope you all find nice Jeep toys under your tree.
Last edited by gripthor; 12-24-2009 at 01:00 PM.
12-24-2009, 07:06 PM
#34
JK Freak
I am running 35s on my 4 door X 6 speed with 3.21 gears and no major issues other than acceleration similar to a 1991 Geo Metro. I do plan to regear to 4.88s once I get funding, but for now I am fine. I am able to maintain speed on back roads and highways, just need to downshift and run in 4th gear on an incline on the highway. Fuel mileage is about 17 average with mostly back road stop and go driving.
For those of us that can't afford to do a complete build all at once, don't fear running 35's with 3.21 gears, as long as you don't need to get anywhere too quickly.
For those of us that can't afford to do a complete build all at once, don't fear running 35's with 3.21 gears, as long as you don't need to get anywhere too quickly.
12-24-2009, 07:57 PM
#35
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But I'm in an automatic...
It's funny, I asked the same question about three weeks ago before I did the built. I have 3.73 gears and a manual tranny, I'm now running 35 inch tires and have not re-geared. Don't give it a second thought. The jeep does fine-- essentially it becomes a five speed (which I actually prefer... First gear is now "taller"). No experience with auto tranny, but for a manual-- no worries.
12-24-2009, 08:23 PM
#36
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I have 4.10s, 35 inch Toyos (10ply), on cheap 17 inch steel rims. With the superchip, it feels much like it did , with no superchip and the stock 32s.
I live in Las Vegas, 2500 feet high. Two trips a year on the highway to Moab, I can live with it. Now from Denver, to Moab, up I-70 thru the Eisenhower tunnel.
NO WAY
I live in Las Vegas, 2500 feet high. Two trips a year on the highway to Moab, I can live with it. Now from Denver, to Moab, up I-70 thru the Eisenhower tunnel.
NO WAY
12-24-2009, 11:01 PM
#37
JK Enthusiast
I'll give an opposing view & point out a few things.
First, the guys that say it is fine with stock gears haven't driven their rig regeared. So, they don't really have a solid basis for comparison.
If you browse the threads/posts of those who have regeared & have an actual basis for comparison, they never say they regretted rehearing, only that they regretted waiting so long to regear or that they did not regear low enough.
So, the more valid thread & poll would be:
Who actually has regeared with 35s & thinks it wasn't worth the $1000-$1500?
Second, it is a matter of priorities.
A regear should cost no more than $1000-$1500.
It is rated as a 10 hour job. So, labor should be between $600-$1000.
The parts are $400-$550 depending on wheher you buy overhaul kits.
For those that say it is a budgetary thing, you can buy 3.75" backspaces 15x8 wheels for $40 each (no grinding or rubbing issues), and 35x12.50R15 KM2s or MTRs w/Kevlar for $200 each. So less than $1250 for 5 wheels & tires. Then, you can run 35s with a less than spending $500-$700 on a lift in the 2.5" to 3" range, & you'd have a great ride. Add $309 for a Superchips, & the total upgrade cost is around $2000--less the proceeds from selling your stock wheels & tires.
Instead, many guys spend more than $2000 on their tires & wheels alone. Then, they spend another $1000+ on a Superchips, intake, & exhaust. So they have a $3000 build & then say they can't justify or afford gears.
Then, they get a lift taller than 3" so they end up spending as much as another $1000 on driveshafts (automatics eventually will need a new front driveshaft over about 2.5"-3", 2 door JKs will eventually need a new rear driveshaft over 3", and 4 door JKs will eventually need a new rear dirveshaft over 4").
With a 2.5"-3" lift, they wouldn't need new driveshafts. That $1000 alone could cover most or all the regear cost.
And, a full 3.5"-4" lift with all components runs in the $2k+ range if you want it to drive and handle very well. Whereas, at 2.5" with front lower arms and a front trackbar, you would spend less than $1000 for a similar on road ride and offroad performance.
So it is more of a big hat, no cattle thing--at least to me--when someone spends money on pretty wheels & tires and an intake & exhaust, goes over a 3" lift, then says that regearing is not worth it because they have no basis of comparison--or worse, they say that they can't afford it.
Please, no one take this post personally. It is not a personal attack or criticism on any one person.
I just wanted to point out the irony of a bunch of guys who ask if regearing is worth it from other guys who don't have a basis of comparison, many of which could actually have a basis of comparison had they prioritized funds towards upgrades that increased capability more than looks & sound.
Again, just pointing out the irony here--not personally attacking anyone.
First, the guys that say it is fine with stock gears haven't driven their rig regeared. So, they don't really have a solid basis for comparison.
If you browse the threads/posts of those who have regeared & have an actual basis for comparison, they never say they regretted rehearing, only that they regretted waiting so long to regear or that they did not regear low enough.
So, the more valid thread & poll would be:
Who actually has regeared with 35s & thinks it wasn't worth the $1000-$1500?
Second, it is a matter of priorities.
A regear should cost no more than $1000-$1500.
It is rated as a 10 hour job. So, labor should be between $600-$1000.
The parts are $400-$550 depending on wheher you buy overhaul kits.
For those that say it is a budgetary thing, you can buy 3.75" backspaces 15x8 wheels for $40 each (no grinding or rubbing issues), and 35x12.50R15 KM2s or MTRs w/Kevlar for $200 each. So less than $1250 for 5 wheels & tires. Then, you can run 35s with a less than spending $500-$700 on a lift in the 2.5" to 3" range, & you'd have a great ride. Add $309 for a Superchips, & the total upgrade cost is around $2000--less the proceeds from selling your stock wheels & tires.
Instead, many guys spend more than $2000 on their tires & wheels alone. Then, they spend another $1000+ on a Superchips, intake, & exhaust. So they have a $3000 build & then say they can't justify or afford gears.
Then, they get a lift taller than 3" so they end up spending as much as another $1000 on driveshafts (automatics eventually will need a new front driveshaft over about 2.5"-3", 2 door JKs will eventually need a new rear driveshaft over 3", and 4 door JKs will eventually need a new rear dirveshaft over 4").
With a 2.5"-3" lift, they wouldn't need new driveshafts. That $1000 alone could cover most or all the regear cost.
And, a full 3.5"-4" lift with all components runs in the $2k+ range if you want it to drive and handle very well. Whereas, at 2.5" with front lower arms and a front trackbar, you would spend less than $1000 for a similar on road ride and offroad performance.
So it is more of a big hat, no cattle thing--at least to me--when someone spends money on pretty wheels & tires and an intake & exhaust, goes over a 3" lift, then says that regearing is not worth it because they have no basis of comparison--or worse, they say that they can't afford it.
Please, no one take this post personally. It is not a personal attack or criticism on any one person.
I just wanted to point out the irony of a bunch of guys who ask if regearing is worth it from other guys who don't have a basis of comparison, many of which could actually have a basis of comparison had they prioritized funds towards upgrades that increased capability more than looks & sound.
Again, just pointing out the irony here--not personally attacking anyone.
Here is a thread about a guy who re-geared and it was worse for him:
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...ight=513+GEARS
Last edited by Foo; 12-24-2009 at 11:07 PM.
12-25-2009, 12:35 AM
#38
JK Junkie
Hmph... Good points, I still say get the 35's and then if you need to re-gear do it! Just remember you have option not to do it.
Here is a thread about a guy who re-geared and it was worse for him:
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...ight=513+GEARS
Here is a thread about a guy who re-geared and it was worse for him:
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...ight=513+GEARS
I am not exactly sure what exact hill(s) he frequents, but if it is only 1 hill, he always have the option of going slower so he can stay in the appropriate gear.
That is assuming you don't live at the top of that hill
You can find a condition like that for any gear ratio.
I would have prefered to spend the $1k on something else. If you can live with 35s without regearing, you are one of the few fortunate ones.
12-25-2009, 06:27 AM
#39
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First off, wishing all a Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays!
A day or so ago I said I would create an OD off gear chart. It's not perfect, was thrown together quickly but gets the point across. By no means is this an optimal solution! It's a solution to keep your head above water and set expectations on what comes of a tire size change without re-gearing. There are lots of negatives about going this direction and my best advice is this should serve as a stop gap until you get appropriate gears.
A day or so ago I said I would create an OD off gear chart. It's not perfect, was thrown together quickly but gets the point across. By no means is this an optimal solution! It's a solution to keep your head above water and set expectations on what comes of a tire size change without re-gearing. There are lots of negatives about going this direction and my best advice is this should serve as a stop gap until you get appropriate gears.
12-25-2009, 06:54 AM
#40
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Yeah, those combos would result in the OD off JK getting about 20lbs of additional torque and 15hp to the ground. 5.38s and an SC would make them about dead even.