anyone have these ? Rock Rails only $199
#21
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That is the exact same picture that Smittybilt uses on their website for their SRC Side Armor. From their description "Every SRC Side Armor bolts up to your vehicle without any drilling or modifications..." So if you do have to drill, I would definately like to know. That would change my options. Of course, it also says "ComingSoon!" so who knows.
#22
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The directions for mine say drill the frame, so hopefully they aren't SRC or RRC. I might give jcwhitney a call this afternoon and see if they will tell me the manufacturer.
I looked on smittybilt website, and they say "all SRC side armor is a no drill installation". Now, the rugged ridge site only has the TJ side armor on it, but the TJ armor has the "flanges" like the ones I got from jcwhitney, and the instructions are the same which includes drilling the frame and mounting with the self-tapping" bolts. But like I said those were the TJ ones, and the site doesn't seem to have JK ones listed. I would bet the ones I have are RRC.
It looks like the difference in the RRC and SRC for the TJ was a matter of bolt on verses drill. Might be the same for the JK. ?
I looked on smittybilt website, and they say "all SRC side armor is a no drill installation". Now, the rugged ridge site only has the TJ side armor on it, but the TJ armor has the "flanges" like the ones I got from jcwhitney, and the instructions are the same which includes drilling the frame and mounting with the self-tapping" bolts. But like I said those were the TJ ones, and the site doesn't seem to have JK ones listed. I would bet the ones I have are RRC.
It looks like the difference in the RRC and SRC for the TJ was a matter of bolt on verses drill. Might be the same for the JK. ?
Last edited by Enteric; 04-02-2008 at 11:07 AM.
#24
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K, I did the driver's side last night. I'll put a few pictures up. Also, I confirmed that these are NOT Rugged Ridge, or Smittybilt. They are Made in CHINA. And are based on the TJ RRC rails that drill into the frame. K, here are the pictures if this thing works.
http://my.project-jk.com/showphoto.p...32&ppuser=1601
http://my.project-jk.com/showphoto.p...31&ppuser=1601
http://my.project-jk.com/showphoto.p...30&ppuser=1601
http://my.project-jk.com/showphoto.p...29&ppuser=1601
http://my.project-jk.com/showphoto.p...27&ppuser=1601
They were real small and I'm not sure why. Genetics I guess. I put the clickable bigger images in here.
k, hope it works
http://my.project-jk.com/showphoto.p...32&ppuser=1601
http://my.project-jk.com/showphoto.p...31&ppuser=1601
http://my.project-jk.com/showphoto.p...30&ppuser=1601
http://my.project-jk.com/showphoto.p...29&ppuser=1601
http://my.project-jk.com/showphoto.p...27&ppuser=1601
They were real small and I'm not sure why. Genetics I guess. I put the clickable bigger images in here.
k, hope it works
Last edited by Enteric; 04-03-2008 at 06:57 AM.
#28
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K, quick update. I got it all finished up last night. Everything looks great. It is a little off in places, but allows for slight adjustments after you get it all in place. Adjustments can be done because the holes in the flanges are a little bigger than the bolts, so it will move a little to allow you to fine tune the alignment. As I stated in the other post, the rails kinda "taper" in towards the back, but hardly noticeable. I am still planning on adding a "shim" of some sort to push it out the 1/4" or so it needs to be parallel with the body.
It did not come with a template, but I just put the rail up on a jack and used 2 stands to hold up the sides and added cardboard pieces under the stands one at a time to lift it up until it was level, and where I wanted it. Then I marked each hole with a sharpie marker. Dropped it down, and drilled the holes, put the self-tapping bolts through and removed them, then lifted it back into place and bolted it up.
Warning: If you get this one from China, it will come with 16 self-tapping "hardened" steel bolts. B.S. they are not hardened, or not enough. lol Sometime in the night it cooled and flexed enough to put stress on the bolts?, and I had the heads of 2 bolts shoot across the garage. Yup, snapped them right off. I'm gonna go to the bolt store today and get some REAL "hardened" bolts for all 16 and replace the cheep crappy ones from the kit. I would recommend this to everyone who gets these. I have to try and drill out the bolts with no heads that are stuck in my frame now too. Hopefully since it is drilled all the way through I can "push" them out with the drill if it will grab.
Tip: The drill bit size to use is a 9/32" bit. Most sets of bits do not have this bit. I got one from Lowes for $4, and it broke halfway through the second of 16 holes. I went back to Lowes and got a "multibit"? It is a stepwise bit that is conical shaped. Drilled the rest of the holes with this bit. Still looks like a new bit. Cost about $13, but well worth it. And it had a 9/32" step in it. I just took a sharpie and blacked out the bit above the 9/32" step, and it showed me where to stop every time. Or you can wrap it above the mark with electrical tape, and it will stop there.
It did not come with a template, but I just put the rail up on a jack and used 2 stands to hold up the sides and added cardboard pieces under the stands one at a time to lift it up until it was level, and where I wanted it. Then I marked each hole with a sharpie marker. Dropped it down, and drilled the holes, put the self-tapping bolts through and removed them, then lifted it back into place and bolted it up.
Warning: If you get this one from China, it will come with 16 self-tapping "hardened" steel bolts. B.S. they are not hardened, or not enough. lol Sometime in the night it cooled and flexed enough to put stress on the bolts?, and I had the heads of 2 bolts shoot across the garage. Yup, snapped them right off. I'm gonna go to the bolt store today and get some REAL "hardened" bolts for all 16 and replace the cheep crappy ones from the kit. I would recommend this to everyone who gets these. I have to try and drill out the bolts with no heads that are stuck in my frame now too. Hopefully since it is drilled all the way through I can "push" them out with the drill if it will grab.
Tip: The drill bit size to use is a 9/32" bit. Most sets of bits do not have this bit. I got one from Lowes for $4, and it broke halfway through the second of 16 holes. I went back to Lowes and got a "multibit"? It is a stepwise bit that is conical shaped. Drilled the rest of the holes with this bit. Still looks like a new bit. Cost about $13, but well worth it. And it had a 9/32" step in it. I just took a sharpie and blacked out the bit above the 9/32" step, and it showed me where to stop every time. Or you can wrap it above the mark with electrical tape, and it will stop there.
#30
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I couldn't get anything to come up for the 2door. A friend wants them in the 2door. You might try calling and see if they just do not have them listed. My buddy is going to call soon to ask, so if he beats you to it, I'll let you know what they say.