nthinuf

I was running 4.5" BS rims with 35's, and added 1.5" adapters for the 37's - so an effective 3.0" bs. (My 35's would rub on-road every time I turned through two particular intersections. Haven't run into that with 37's and the addition of the adapters...) Just keep in mind that there are too many variables in height/width/weight/psi/usage/etc/etc going on for any firm Backspace numbers that will work for every setup. While many people are running higher numbers, most recommendations seem to lean toward the lower end of the spectrum: 4.5" bs for 35's and 3.5" bs for 37's.

For the flares, while living in Colorado I was running 'un-cut' stock flares during the snowy months for more coverage, rarely did more than a few forest service type roads that were open at the time. For the warmer months, I swapped on a second set of chopped stock flares. (too cheap to pay for flats, so just watched craigslist and snagged a few free/cheap sets that some poor guys wife was demanding he get out of her garage!! They don't look as good as flats, but I've trashed 3 sets of them so the price works for me.

Negatives for spacers? It's an extra set of bolts you have to be aware of, and a bit more time/effort to remove them when you want to do your brakes or whatever. But no, as long as you choose a quality set, install them properly, and don't forget about them, I don't think it's any worse than running rims with an equivalent backspace. The problem with rims is that there just aren't a lot of inexpensive options to be found down in that 3-4 bs range. You're mostly looking at beadlocks, which generally are not a cheap option.

Sixty4x4

Papa Bear - lots of good advice that is confusing. I have MC 2-1/2" springs on mine. Yesterday son had his 16 JKUR with 2" TF level kit beside mine and mine was a good 1-1/2" higher with 1/2" more tire lift and V8 engine. So it was actually an honest 3" lift. Someone said they like the Duraflex MC bushing and their benefit is they let the axles flex so much easier than most others. 85-90mph in a lifted Jeep? You are brave. I don't like to go over 70mph in mine. Unless you just want looks and you have the $$ then go 37s but the rotating mass drag on those tires will be not felt in the seat of the pants. Gear down, to compensate, and you will eat fuel = less range offroad. I run (google it) Maclean Creek near Calgary Alberta on 33's and stock Rubi gears. Never bottomed out yet but scraped tow bar a few times on trail exit. It is extreme in a few places but I don't go there as I am not setup for it. Do I need more lift? Not for what I do and...… I have a winch.
Sounds like you need 35's and Game Changer package. You will be pleasantly surprised and you can modify/change components later and easily sell what MC stuff you take off. I believe there has been previous posts (many) that allude to starting smaller then grow into bigger lifts. IE you never get what you really want right off the bat.
Good Luck.

resharp001

One problem I think people run into when modifying a vehicle and looking for "the perfect" lift kit is that they think it's a one-shot thing you do and are done. In reality, it's just the beginning. Any time you modify something there is tinkering afterwards, tweaking this or that, small changes here and there. You never know what you're gonna end up with in regard to a lift until it is installed. Then you may need to change this or that. It's usually a labor of love, or a love-hate relationship, for most of us . That's the main reason why it pays to be a handy person that does their own labor. It helps you understand what's going on vs. just taking it to someone else to "fix". There are definitely general "guidelines" that you'll find are true, like the wheel backspacing. Not to say you have to follow those, but just because something works for one person in their build is not indicative it will work perfectly in yours.

I ran a net 3" BS for a while in the same manner nthinuf did (4.5" BS wheels with spacer). It worked fine for the time I needed. I'm no scientist, but logic tells me the further out your moving all that mass, the more stress on the C and ball joints. Not sure it makes a hill of beans difference in the real world with normal use or not. "Adapters" may or may not create issues with tire store service in your area. You might just ask your local shop about that before making big decisions. Beadlocks pose the same issues as many places don't want the liability of touching them. When I was looking around for beadlocks, I noticed Dirty Lift DT-1 and DT-2 wheels came in 3.5" BS, and they can be mounted both traditionally and as beadlocks with the additional ring. There are a few wheels out there like that, but the selections are sure slim for 3.5" BS.....even for beadlocks.

resharp001

I don't care either way, but there's another MC sale should you care -

barongan

never experienced it. but Looks like this is very interesting