Papa Bear

It's been a few days since I updated this, good to be an essential worker these days but taking away from my research.
Thank you all for adding the informative comments to my post.
I'd like to add just a general rundown of where I am at and what I'm contemplating before making the purchase:
When I pitched my idea for 37s to the boys in my local Jeep posse I got a lot of pushback on going with the 37s. Most of them have 35s (so maybe jealously) with a 2.5 AEV lifts plus a few other frankenlift items (different track bars, stabilizers, springs and accessories). They are mostly saying that when you run 37s or larger you significantly reduce the DD qualities because of the larger tires and loss of power (without a regear) and the money over all to get new driveshafts, gussets and other axle reinforcement and control arms. They suggested the AEV lift provides geometry correction brackets that eliminate the need to have adjustable control arms and their arguments seemed to make sense.
I just busted out the knowledge about "hydro steer" that RESHARP001 dropped on me and they said that the whole hydro-steer package costs over $1000 dollars to do it right. So I told them I'd get back to them :-)
Anyway, I do drive 90% on the highways during the year and this ride must be more comfortable on the road than stock. Stock really sucks in my ride especially when I hit potholes, expansion joints and imperfections on the road which make my stock 2012 JKUR feel squirrelly as hell. When I upgrade my tires I do worry that these issues will be magnified. I just want a bad ass comfortable ride when taking the kids to school and then be able to pick them up after school and hit the trails (rough and rocky with log and large rock obstacles) to get us into the back country. I will be adding a winch, steel front and rear bumper and oversized tire carrier this summer and want to be able to have all of these add ons and improve my DD qualities. Am I asking for my cake and trying to eat it too? Thanks for listening and taking the time to inform me about how and what to do.

resharp001

This is a valid concern. Hydro assist can be done for ~$650 the Red Neck Ram way. It's probably one of the last upgrades for running larger than 35 tires (definitely behind brakes and all other steering upgrades), but all something to keep in mind. Seems like several "37" comments coming up in the last few days besides your thread. For just an all around capable vehicle with some modifications, you can't beat just staying on 35s. You're going to do just about everything with 35s that you'd do with 37s, and the jeep is going to be less of a headache. just my 2c.

Papa Bear

resharp001...I appreciate you.
I think you have helped me out a lot so far, I am very interested in changing my ambitions from a 37 to a 35. Do you have any experience with Metalcloak vs Synergy as far as a total suspension lift is concerned? I feel like these two companies have distinguished themselves as the most complete kits with the highest quality components.
I'm just chillin' drinking some cold beer and thinking that it's time to pull the damn trigger already. In an effort to complete the build and get out on the rapidly melting trails I want to make a decision and be able to enjoy this summer with new capabilities.
Thank you in advance, and the others who have added to this thread with great, detailed information. It is humbling when you discover that you don't know what you don't know. Hopefully when it's all ready to go, I'll see some of y'all on the CO trails.
My last questions are:
1. With 35s should I regear to 4.56 or 4.88? I like to drive fast 85-90 on the interstates during travel and I want to have access to the OD when doing so.
2. Between Synergy Stage 3, 3" lift https://www.synergymfg.com/synergy-j...tegory_id=4055
and the upgraded Stage 4, 3" lift https://www.synergymfg.com/synergy-j...tegory_id=4055
what is the benefit of running one over the other?
3. The Metalcloak Gamechanger 3.5" lift https://metalcloak.com/jk-wrangler-3...uspension.html
and a Metalcloak Gamechanger 2.5" lift https://metalcloak.com/jeep-jk-wrang...n-systems.html
Is there anything any of these lift kits are missing and would be considered "essential" in order to have a complete and fully functioning lift kit for immediate and permanent use?

resharp001

Gosh, it's been a long time since I've pulled up a Synergy lift to look at it. I can't believe that 3" stage 3 kit is $3100, and you're not even getting their adjustable TB included, and the lower arms in that kit look like they are fix lengthed. Jeesh. I do not have a full MC lift myself. My jeep was built along the way, but I do have a full set of their arms, the TB, and the DL. I am a firm believer in their Duroflex bushings. I'd chose MC over Synergy every day, but Synergy over a lot of the others out there.

Choosing between 2.5" and 3.5" kits gonna be a personal choice, but just like with 37s......the higher you go the more things to address, and higher does not equate to increased performance. With MC springs you should expect to see more actual lift than the stated number too. That 2.5" lift could easily net you 3" or more of actual lift. It's different on every jeep. Get up over 3" and your front driveshaft is a ticking time bomb. The boot protecting the CV joint at the TC side will rip, spew grease under the tub, and that joint will dry out. I have seen this happen on a simple 2.5" budget boost that never left the pavement, so it happens in general, but will be quicker the higher you go. Budget for a front driveshaft.

Also, up over 3" is where you start getting in to high-steer kits or what you'll commonly see us referring to as drag link flips. That would add another couple hundred to the kit if you go with the higher option (includes their DL and a raised TB bracket for the axle. If you're gonna do it right, don't ignore the TR either which adds bit more.

Budget for ball joints. The Teraflex BJs are probably the best bang for your buck in the budget-friendly range, but still going to run ya couple hundred and 3-4 hours of fun labor (good learning experience though). If your budget allows, Rare Parts BJs would be a nice luxury. If you don't have c-gussets yet, do those in combination with the ball joints.

Common problem, especially with the factory front DS, is clearance at the exhaust crossover. A lot of people will just use exhaust spacers. They're cheap and get the job done I guess. Another, better option IMO, is re-routing that exhaust behind the crossmember. You can do this with an AFE Y-pipe, or a mom & pop muffler shop will often just do it custom for you for $50-$80, although Aspen area might be more of a premium. This also helps a little bit later on when you have to change the transmission fluid if you have an auto. We don't have a drain plug on the tranny pan and that exhaust makes for a headache reaching the rear bolts. If you do this....just protect your fuel lines with some heat shield. While we're talking about that general area.......if you think you're gonna be banging any rocks at any time, replacing that cross member with an HD option is so worth it.

If you lived in a flat area I'd say go 4.56 gears, but considering your location, I think I'd lean on the aggressive side and go 4.88s. You're gonna be winding up the RPMs on the high-end since you like to drive so fast, but I think you'd appreciate not downshifting quite as much through the mountains. Just kinda one of those "can't have your cake and eat it too" things unless you're going to get in to adding additional horse power. Definitely weigh others' gearing opinions though and talk to the locals.

I'm sure I overlooked something....my thoughts and comments are usually pretty scattered. This stuff is like going down a rabbit hole with so many different offshoots.

resharp001

Here is your opportunity. Sale is today only -

Papa Bear

What up nthinuf? I like your setup in terms of what I too would like to add on my rig. So you're saying that you actually got 4.5" of increased lift out of a 3.5" MC kit? And that is with all the gear you mentioned or was that the lift without those extras? Just trying to narrow it down to the 3.5 or 2.5 Gamechanger or a comparable Synergy Lift. I currently run 33" Falken Wildpeak AT/3 which have been very serviceable tires in my opinion. I had the Duratracs before and thought they may have been slightly better in terms of all around performance but on the rocky CO fire roads and forest service roads that lead to my favorite destinations, they are about equal. So because the tires are 80 percent remaining I want to sell em and get either the 35s or if I can come up with the time and Bobby Dinero's to pay for the 37s and the added equipment to run them, I'll go that route.

nthinuf

I've gone through several lift and component variations since I bought it back in Jan 2008, so have lost track of my actual measured height from stock. But based on this diagram that gets posted all the time, I am currently sitting at 4.5" with the MC 3.5" coils. (from previous replies, I think this is a good basis to use for my 2008 sahara, but again, no actual stock measurements from 12 years ago)



As a visual: this is 37" Cooper STT Pro's with stock flares.

As you can see, steel stubby and my 22 year old Warn 9500lb winch with steel cable, not synthetic rope. Swapped to rubi rails for some of those Colorado trails (sure miss living up there...), but generally just the light plastic sahara side-steps for daily driving. No huge heavy bumpers or skids or luggage racks or anything.

As far as the 35 vs 37 debate goes --> you know you want 37's - go for it!. It's not like there's an immediate ten thousand dollar outlay the second you put the tires on. Continue researching all of the issues that you may or may not run into and you'll form a good idea of what you will do if/when it's time.

Duoglide

I just took out the 2.5" lift springs on my '14 2 door and installed MC 2.5 coils. Is was told on the phone I'd get 3" based on steel front & rear bumpers, winch etc. It now measures exactly 3" of lift. MC explained that their lift numbers are based on 5-800# additional weights being on the Jeep. My Jeep rides much better than it did.

Papa Bear

Duoglide, I'm diggin' the extra effort you put in by calling the dealer directly to get an accurate assessment of what the lift height equates to with the appropriate amount of weight. 500-800 lbs nets you what they advertise then by that statement so a bone stock Jeep would get some extra lift...maybe an 1-1 1/2".

You said you really like your MC lift, is it the same 2.5 GameChanger I had a link to above? Was there anything not included that you added? It looks like it's a pretty complete kit, but seeing as this is my first one I have been checking the more experienced Jeepers in here for advice.

Papa Bear

[As far as the 35 vs 37 debate goes --> you know you want 37's - go for it!. It's not like there's an immediate ten thousand dollar outlay the second you put the tires on. Continue researching all of the issues that you may or may not run into and you'll form a good idea of what you will do if/when it's time.[/QUOTE]

Dzzamn that setup looks really nice with the 37s and the stubby bumper along with the stock fenders...maybe they get lovingly rubbed on when tires are fully stuffed...? I'm curious about the recommended backspacing that is recommended with such a lift and tire set up. Does that come from wheel spacers? If not, how do you make sure your wheels have the appropriate backspacing required for 37s (4.25 is what I found in some research somewhere)? If they are spacers, how do you like them/dislike them? Are there any negatives to having spacers vs wheels "properly" backspaced from the factory?