Wightmn

For some items, the wait till it breaks theory is great. Axle/drive shafts are a great example.

For others, preventative measures can save you a bunch in the long run. I did truss and c gussets before i moved to 37s. Bent Cs or a broken axle are a big deal. While the axle is pulled out, ball joints are an easy swap. You will have to do it later if you run stock bjs anyway. The stock rear axle flanges are weak. Mine didn't break, but bent enough to annoy me. Read lots of squeaking and brake wear. And that was on 35's. Gears will make a huge difference. I highly suggest you drive several ratios with your tire size, engine and transmission if you can. 4.56 is just right for me, but I'm in Kansas with a 3.6 and auto.

IMO, there isn't a best way. How you drive it will make all the difference. Some of our local guys go slow, pick a smart line and wheel just fine with lots of stock parts. Others are heavy with the skinny pedal and tend to break stuff. Some will tell you to go full Dynatrac and all the trimmings right out of the gate. Others say build it as you go. All depends on how fast you want to part with your money.

For me, the fun is all in the build process. Have fun and post pics.

nthinuf

5.38's are a good choice for 07-11 autos with a 3.8. You have a 2015, with a 3.6. I would guess that a lower (numeric) ratio might be more appropriate for you, but there are plenty of threads to read through to help you make the decision. There is also a good rpm chart based on year and transmission in the faq's stuck at the top of this modified area.

NoQuarter#121

Its a good system for how I use the rig.
Rides pretty nice, works good offroad.

Some hardcore guys like long arm systems better.

I store the JEEP in my shop with 14' doors, so yeah it fits.

buckeyedolfan

If your not going to wheel it couldn't you just do a 2.5" lift and flat fenders with 37s and be good for mall crawling?

Sent from my Jeep or RZR