Any tips to getting more flex from a 2" OME lift?
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Another possible option is to add shock extensions to the front shocks and raise the rear lower shock mounts. These things will increase travel as long as your bump stops are set appropriately to protect your shocks from bottoming out. Another benefit of raising the rear shock mount is that you have better protection for the shock and increased clearance if you trim off the old mount.
Rob
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Rob
Sent from my HTC Glacier using Tapatalk 2
#16
What I'm looking to do is get TO the point where the shocks are the limiting factor, and decide if I am satisfied with that.
I'm a metal stud framing project manager, making some brake line drop brackets is a piece of cake, I've got some 16 ga metal & a chop saw in my shed... gravy. but I wanted to see if there was a better way to go about it... I've heard some say that's a poor way to do it, looks like you can get lines for the rear on fleabay for $90 that are intended for a 4" lift... thinking that's "better", but I can make a bracket for free & see where I can get to for free.
Lost, so to get to that point, you just pulled what slack you could get, no extensions up front?
That's basically what I'm trying to figure out. The rear obviously needs extension or relocation, but I don't want to drop it a few inches, disconnect, and think I'm fine, then rip out a brake line.
I get how the front works, but when disconnected, the links stop me quite a ways from full extension of the shocks up front. (rear shocks are about 1-1.5 from extension in rear like I mentioned)
Rob, got a link for the extensions you mention?