Tim08JK

Were you able to crawl under your Jeep and take a look?

Yeah, you guys are right, I wasn't thinking. He'll only be able to narrow it down to either being the front axle or driveshaft by pulling the front shaft.

afletche

decided to take it offroad today instead. it is now very noisy about 3/4 of the time in 4WD and pretty embarrassing driving around - the only time it happens in 2WD is for about 5 seconds immediately after shifting from 4WD. I tried to locate the sound and it could be coming from the driveshaft. so it's coming off tomorrow - which unfortunately means getting the skid plates off, which are bent to shit - sure they won't go back on too easy......

afletche

finally got under the Jeep and managed to get the bent up skids off to look at the driveshaft. the rzeppa joint was trashed. removed the shaft and the boot is all torn up and the joint is totally loose. that was almost certainly where my noise came from. no noise in 4WD now!

is it ok to drive for extended time without the front driveshaft? obviously in 2WD.

guess it's time for a new driveshaft. i figure a 1310 is enough for now. adams, tom woods, je reel? i heard that with some of the aftermarket shafts you don't need to swap out the yokes - any reason why i want to avoid this type? - it's obviously going to make the install easier?

it's a 4 door with 3.5" lift, stock axles (d30/d44), 35" tires

thanks for the help, alan

video.... https://youtu.be/DzmlmHNSR9k

Tim08JK

Yeah, there is no problem driving in 2WD without the front driveshaft.

All three aftermarket driveshaft vendors that you listed have a solid reputation. Personally, I went with Adams for my front driveshaft. The driveshaft I ordered came with a transfer case yoke (instead of using the stock flange type thing) and retained the flange at the axle. I'm not really sure of the reasons to avoid retaining the stock flanges, if there are any. Someone else may need to chime in on that.

I don't really think there's any reason to run a 1350 driveshaft if you're on 35's (unless you plan on going bigger). Should be fine with the 1310.

Jp3792

I run a coast 1310 driveshaft. Havent had problems. It replaces the stock flange. If you do go that route of driveshaft make sure you torque it to the correct specs if you dont want to have to rebuild the front diff. 😃

Invest2m4

Yeah, 1310 for sure. Unless you have an LS and 40"+ tires.

The t-case yoke has to be swapped, but that's easy. I highly recommend going with the bolt on flange adapter in the front rather than changing the pinion yoke. The pinion nut torque process when done correctly, is a pain. Not done correctly and you risk having too much or too little bearing preload. The flange adapter means you don't have to mess with that and it is plenty strong.

afletche

i put the new front driveshaft in today (adams 1310 with bolt on flange adapter for the front) - pretty easy install. no more noise in 4WD! thanks for all the advice.