resharp001

I asked about BJs just to eliminate the typical tight steering that is experienced right after replacing (and before break-in). That's obviously not an issue. Since it is free to do, I'd remove the stabilizers if it were me, and then take it for a test drive. Gas charged units aren't ideal for a stabilizer. Theoretically they should be offsetting each other as you have one pointing each direction, but I'd still start by eliminating those just so you can have a clear idea what it feels like without them before moving forward. Just my opinion.

You need to keep your DL and TB parallel, so don't remove the drop pitman and leave the TB as is otherwise the angles will be out of whack and you'll likely see some nasty bumpsteer.

rock7174

I’ll try that first. It doesn’t cost anything to take on and see!

jabeaudett

If the Lift Kit came with the raised track bar mount and a drop pitman arm then yea id leave them both on. But if it came with the drop pitman and you either needed the relocation bracket or just wanted it, his DL and TB may not be parallel with the drop pitman arm now.

Digger 5

How did you measure the caster? Stock is 4.7 prox and 6 should make it drive better. Generally, with 6* of caster even the loosest JK drives decently. With the lift you have and the caster angle you suggest, your pinion angle must be horrible (unless you have an aftermarket housing with added caster. I've seen many JK's with lift in your range with less than 2* of caster. Yes, adjustable control arms can change it but then the pinion angle is an issue.

rock7174

resharp001

Factory is 4.2*.

Too high caster will start to give you some issues with a double cardan DS which will cause some driveline vibes. The CV joints in the factory shaft will appear to accommodate the high caster better in the short run, but at your height, the boot at the CV joint at the transfer case side will fail. The boot will rip, spewing all the grease on the underside of the tub, and the joint will die. You'll either need to replace with the Teraflex high angle rzeppa or a new aftermarket shaft. I'd note that the factory DS is going to die regardless of your caster. It just can't handle that height. The caster should be a long term thing you think about in how it related to the DS, but the high caster shouldn't be the cause of your issue here.

rock7174

I'm hoping to get some time tomorrow to take the stabilizers off. If that doesn't work, I was already planning on dropping the front DS and seeing what it rode like. I wish there was some definitive answers out there, but everything seems conflicting. One guy will say 0 pinion angle will work with stock DS, another guy says it won't, etc. Sounds like every situation is unique to the set up you have. I'll try the process of elimination. Thanks for the help.

resharp001

I'm not implying that your issue is at all related to the DS, just highlighting the issue you will eventually have since it came up. You would know if you had driveline vibes cuz you'd feel it in your butt while driving. Your DS will die, but that is unrelated to any steering issue you have. I wouldn't waste time removing that from DS unless you're just hankering to do it.

In general though, yes, every modified vehicle is different. That's just part of modified life. Remove SS's which should take 5 minutes, drive and report back.

I'll lay off the responses to the thread doesn't get bogged down. I'm sure a few more will chime in.

Rednroll

Why does it always seem that every time someone says, "I've got loose/floaty steering issues", it always seems to be followed by "I've got an RC lift with a drop pitman arm with the dual stabilizer setup"?

It seems so common I wonder how this RC setup ever made it into market.

Sorry, I can't help but you're in good hands since Resharp seems to be starting to become an expert on this topic with the RC lifts and jadbeaudett has some personal experience.

rock7174

Update: Stabilizer is the issue. I took it off and it road pretty good. Before taking it off I measured the difference in each stabilizer to make sure that it was getting the full range of motion for left and right steering and it was quite a bit off. I never did re-adjust it after getting an alignment. Put it back on and dialed it in and it steers like it should. One thing though. The drag link hits on the right stabilizer on tight turns. Would a flipped DL give it the clearance I need? The rough country lift is a POS in my opinion. Shocks and spring suck. I'm not a big off road guy, so is there anything you guys would recommend to soften up my ride shocks/spring wise? Most of my drive is commuting. Something quality, but not thousands of bucks? Suspension is stiff as heck.