Another Driveshaft question - '12 JKU
12-12-2011, 04:53 PM
#1
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Another Driveshaft question - '12 JKU
Since there is so much discussion about needing to change the front Driveshaft (DS) on a lifted (3" or more) '12 JK/U, I figured I would ask some questions on behalf of all the newbies. I have read enough and have received some answers to the questions below, but let's here from the experienced guys.
Should I wait for my DS to rip before I change it?
My Jeep is a Daily driver X% and I do light/heavy (choose one) offroading when I can - how long can i plan my OEM DS to last?
Will the aftermarket offer better handling/performance than stock?
Pinch/Rip in the boot - what can you do while you are waiting for your driveshaft?
1310 or 1350? I know the 1350 is heavy duty, but will I need this?
Tom Woods and some other custom makers ask you to measure from Lip to Flange, while other manufacturers offer their DS based off of size of lift and automatic vs. manual. Do I need custom?
What is the best way to maintain the driveshaft you choose? Are zerk fittings standard on shafts (I read about people adding these to stock DS to keep them well lubed)?
Do I need to change my rear Driveshaft? 2dr vs. 4dr
What driveshaft should I go with? Please don't flame any particular manufacturer, instead please speak of the reasons why you choose your particular DS.
Thanks in advance
Should I wait for my DS to rip before I change it?
My Jeep is a Daily driver X% and I do light/heavy (choose one) offroading when I can - how long can i plan my OEM DS to last?
Will the aftermarket offer better handling/performance than stock?
Pinch/Rip in the boot - what can you do while you are waiting for your driveshaft?
1310 or 1350? I know the 1350 is heavy duty, but will I need this?
Tom Woods and some other custom makers ask you to measure from Lip to Flange, while other manufacturers offer their DS based off of size of lift and automatic vs. manual. Do I need custom?
What is the best way to maintain the driveshaft you choose? Are zerk fittings standard on shafts (I read about people adding these to stock DS to keep them well lubed)?
Do I need to change my rear Driveshaft? 2dr vs. 4dr
What driveshaft should I go with? Please don't flame any particular manufacturer, instead please speak of the reasons why you choose your particular DS.
Thanks in advance
12-12-2011, 05:11 PM
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Since there is so much discussion about needing to change the front Driveshaft (DS) on a lifted (3" or more) '12 JK/U, I figured I would ask some questions on behalf of all the newbies. I have read enough and have received some answers to the questions below, but let's here from the experienced guys.
Should I wait for my DS to rip before I change it?
My Jeep is a Daily driver X% and I do light/heavy (choose one) offroading when I can - how long can i plan my OEM DS to last?
Will the aftermarket offer better handling/performance than stock?
Pinch/Rip in the boot - what can you do while you are waiting for your driveshaft?
1310 or 1350? I know the 1350 is heavy duty, but will I need this?
Tom Woods and some other custom makers ask you to measure from Lip to Flange, while other manufacturers offer their DS based off of size of lift and automatic vs. manual. Do I need custom?
What is the best way to maintain the driveshaft you choose? Are zerk fittings standard on shafts (I read about people adding these to stock DS to keep them well lubed)?
Do I need to change my rear Driveshaft? 2dr vs. 4dr
What driveshaft should I go with? Please don't flame any particular manufacturer, instead please speak of the reasons why you choose your particular DS.
Thanks in advance
Should I wait for my DS to rip before I change it?
My Jeep is a Daily driver X% and I do light/heavy (choose one) offroading when I can - how long can i plan my OEM DS to last?
Will the aftermarket offer better handling/performance than stock?
Pinch/Rip in the boot - what can you do while you are waiting for your driveshaft?
1310 or 1350? I know the 1350 is heavy duty, but will I need this?
Tom Woods and some other custom makers ask you to measure from Lip to Flange, while other manufacturers offer their DS based off of size of lift and automatic vs. manual. Do I need custom?
What is the best way to maintain the driveshaft you choose? Are zerk fittings standard on shafts (I read about people adding these to stock DS to keep them well lubed)?
Do I need to change my rear Driveshaft? 2dr vs. 4dr
What driveshaft should I go with? Please don't flame any particular manufacturer, instead please speak of the reasons why you choose your particular DS.
Thanks in advance
The rear needs the factory e-vap moved over or replace with aftermarket or it will hit the drive shaft boot and rip it.
12-12-2011, 05:36 PM
#3
I have a 3" on my 12 JKU, and yes I wheel it pretty hard. My front drive shaft is perfectly fine and I do not expect it to fail any sooner than any other drive shaft. My boot does not come in contact with my crossover pipe with the TF spacers. My rear shaft does not come anywhere close to the evap skid, but I see how it could if your rear axle is not centered. I have no plans to replace either of my DS unless they fail. Just want you to hear the other side. There are a lot of people who swear that DS need to be replaced, but this is my 4th lifted JK and I ahve never replaced a DS.
12-13-2011, 05:04 AM
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I have a 3" on my 12 JKU, and yes I wheel it pretty hard. My front drive shaft is perfectly fine and I do not expect it to fail any sooner than any other drive shaft. My boot does not come in contact with my crossover pipe with the TF spacers. My rear shaft does not come anywhere close to the evap skid, but I see how it could if your rear axle is not centered. I have no plans to replace either of my DS unless they fail. Just want you to hear the other side. There are a lot of people who swear that DS need to be replaced, but this is my 4th lifted JK and I ahve never replaced a DS.
As for the 2012 auto i don't know how the manual is, The issue is not the rubbing of the drive shaft boot. That can be solved for 60 bucks and a couple washers and it does not hit the boot on the tranny on the 2012. The issue is where the drive shaft comes out of the transfer case the boot that covers the cv-joint gets pinched will rip and let dirt and water in to the joint which will lead to the joint to fail might last for ever might not. The motor is tilted way back compared to the 07-11
Like mattgt5 said run it if starts making noise then replace it might be fine for a life time depending on your driving.
12-13-2011, 05:21 AM
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Originally Posted by ssach
Since there is so much discussion about needing to change the front Driveshaft (DS) on a lifted (3" or more) '12 JK/U, I figured I would ask some questions on behalf of all the newbies. I have read enough and have received some answers to the questions below, but let's here from the experienced guys.
Should I wait for my DS to rip before I change it?
Yes, don't spend money you don't need to.
My Jeep is a Daily driver X% and I do light/heavy (choose one) offroading when I can - how long can i plan my OEM DS to last?
On road you'll never have a problem. Issues occur when your disconnected offroad. If you wheel with the front sway bar disconnected, your risk for contact and damage is higher, and an aftermarket one will be in your future. But even then, it's not gatenteed you'll damage the stock.
Will the aftermarket offer better handling/performance than stock?
No, you won't notice a difference (unless it is installed or balanced improperly, then you might feel vibes)
Pinch/Rip in the boot - what can you do while you are waiting for your driveshaft?
It depends in which boot. The boot over the shaft splines is not overly detrimental, and almost all aftermarket shafts don't even have one. What they do have, is a grease fitting to grease the spline, factory does not. I have read instances where people have tapped a fitting in for the splines, allowing them to grease it and keep it functioning after the boot rips.
If its the flange boot that rips, on the joint, now you have more of a problem. It will sling all the grease from the flange out, eventually causing the bearings inside to fail. When mine tore I packed grease in there once a week till my new DS showed up.
1310 or 1350? I know the 1350 is heavy duty, but will I need this?
1310 is really all you need. 1350 is for if your going to run over a 37" tire, tho there are quite a few who run 40's on 1310's without problems.
Tom Woods and some other custom makers ask you to measure from Lip to Flange, while other manufacturers offer their DS based off of size of lift and automatic vs. manual. Do I need custom?
My coast shaft is JK specific for the front, there were no measurements needed. I have not had a problem to date. I haven't seen much for people needeing to measure on the JK unless their drastically shifting there axle position.
What is the best way to maintain the driveshaft you choose? Are zerk fittings standard on shafts (I read about people adding these to stock DS to keep them well lubed)?
I stated this about the stock above. As for aftermarket, any good shaft will come with them.
Do I need to change my rear Driveshaft? 2dr vs. 4dr
Totally dependent. I have a 2door and my stock has been perfect, because I have my pinion angle set to zero. But 2doors have a very very short rear shaft, an are usually more problematic.
What driveshaft should I go with? Please don't flame any particular manufacturer, instead please speak of the reasons why you choose your particular DS.
I chose coast because they are highly recomended, American made, and come with spicer joints from the factory at no extra cost.
Thanks in advance
Should I wait for my DS to rip before I change it?
Yes, don't spend money you don't need to.
My Jeep is a Daily driver X% and I do light/heavy (choose one) offroading when I can - how long can i plan my OEM DS to last?
On road you'll never have a problem. Issues occur when your disconnected offroad. If you wheel with the front sway bar disconnected, your risk for contact and damage is higher, and an aftermarket one will be in your future. But even then, it's not gatenteed you'll damage the stock.
Will the aftermarket offer better handling/performance than stock?
No, you won't notice a difference (unless it is installed or balanced improperly, then you might feel vibes)
Pinch/Rip in the boot - what can you do while you are waiting for your driveshaft?
It depends in which boot. The boot over the shaft splines is not overly detrimental, and almost all aftermarket shafts don't even have one. What they do have, is a grease fitting to grease the spline, factory does not. I have read instances where people have tapped a fitting in for the splines, allowing them to grease it and keep it functioning after the boot rips.
If its the flange boot that rips, on the joint, now you have more of a problem. It will sling all the grease from the flange out, eventually causing the bearings inside to fail. When mine tore I packed grease in there once a week till my new DS showed up.
1310 or 1350? I know the 1350 is heavy duty, but will I need this?
1310 is really all you need. 1350 is for if your going to run over a 37" tire, tho there are quite a few who run 40's on 1310's without problems.
Tom Woods and some other custom makers ask you to measure from Lip to Flange, while other manufacturers offer their DS based off of size of lift and automatic vs. manual. Do I need custom?
My coast shaft is JK specific for the front, there were no measurements needed. I have not had a problem to date. I haven't seen much for people needeing to measure on the JK unless their drastically shifting there axle position.
What is the best way to maintain the driveshaft you choose? Are zerk fittings standard on shafts (I read about people adding these to stock DS to keep them well lubed)?
I stated this about the stock above. As for aftermarket, any good shaft will come with them.
Do I need to change my rear Driveshaft? 2dr vs. 4dr
Totally dependent. I have a 2door and my stock has been perfect, because I have my pinion angle set to zero. But 2doors have a very very short rear shaft, an are usually more problematic.
What driveshaft should I go with? Please don't flame any particular manufacturer, instead please speak of the reasons why you choose your particular DS.
I chose coast because they are highly recomended, American made, and come with spicer joints from the factory at no extra cost.
Thanks in advance
12-13-2011, 05:24 AM
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don't see any reason why not. heck, you can even wait a bit longer but, it will need to be replaced sooner than later.
assuming you take measure to prevent the slip shaft boot from tearing, it'll last as long as the cv boot on the output shaft stays intact. being that it'll be in a constant state of pinch, it'll most likely fail sooner than later. over the years, 2-door rear shafts saw the same pinch and most people were about to get about a year before needing to replace it. it all depends on how much you drive and how much you wheel more than time.
an aftermarket will be narrower in diameter and will have a double cardan at the output shaft. both will help prevent contact with the exhaust cross over and failuer of a cv boot.
on the slip shaft boot, you don't really need to do anything and can drive with it torn for a while. at the cv boot, not a whole lot but, once that happens, you really need to get a replacement soon. once the bearing inside fail, you are done.
not unless you're planning to wheel really hard with 37's or bigger. 1310's are fine for most applications.
it's a great sales pitch that gets people to think that they're getting special treatment but the reality is, unless you're installing a set of dana 60's or have some other special application, any off the shelf shaft like a coast or je reel will work just fine. trust me.
for one, make sure you get spicer or neapco u-joints rather than the piece of crap chinese joints that some popular shafts use. that will go a long way to keeping your shafts working well for a long time. ALL u-joints should be replaced about 2-3 years (approximately 40,000) as a part of routine maintenance. a lot of high quality u-joints are serviceless meaning you don't need to grease them and they will be just fine as is for the duration of their service life. once that have zerks on them should be greased as needed especially if you live in the rust belt - maybe once every other oil change. the shaft itself and double cardan should be greased as well.
on a 2-door, yes. on a 4-door, no. the later is long enough to prevent a severe angle at the cv boots and it'll work just fine for a long time.
so long as it's balanced well, a drive shaft is pretty much a drive shaft. the biggest difference between one from the next is in what u-joints are used. some popular brands use cheap chinese joints and i have seen these break all the time on the trail. i prefer brands like coast and je reel because they use high quality joints like spicer and neapco right out of the box and offer them at the same price as the other popular shafts with the chinese joints. regardless of who you go with, just make sure you get good u-joints.
My Jeep is a Daily driver X% and I do light/heavy (choose one) offroading when I can - how long can i plan my OEM DS to last?
Will the aftermarket offer better handling/performance than stock?
Pinch/Rip in the boot - what can you do while you are waiting for your driveshaft?
1310 or 1350? I know the 1350 is heavy duty, but will I need this?
Tom Woods and some other custom makers ask you to measure from Lip to Flange, while other manufacturers offer their DS based off of size of lift and automatic vs. manual. Do I need custom?
What is the best way to maintain the driveshaft you choose? Are zerk fittings standard on shafts (I read about people adding these to stock DS to keep them well lubed)?
Do I need to change my rear Driveshaft? 2dr vs. 4dr
What driveshaft should I go with? Please don't flame any particular manufacturer, instead please speak of the reasons why you choose your particular DS.
12-13-2011, 05:26 AM
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I have a 3" on my 12 JKU, and yes I wheel it pretty hard. My front drive shaft is perfectly fine and I do not expect it to fail any sooner than any other drive shaft. My boot does not come in contact with my crossover pipe with the TF spacers. My rear shaft does not come anywhere close to the evap skid, but I see how it could if your rear axle is not centered. I have no plans to replace either of my DS unless they fail. Just want you to hear the other side. There are a lot of people who swear that DS need to be replaced, but this is my 4th lifted JK and I ahve never replaced a DS.
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12-13-2011, 05:38 AM
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if you are still running factory shocks or new shocks that are short enough to limit the amount of droop you have, you will not need to replace your front drive shaft on a 2012. at just 2", the cv boot will still be pinching a bit but, it'll most likely last for a while.
12-13-2011, 07:55 AM
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I have a 3" on my 12 JKU, and yes I wheel it pretty hard. My front drive shaft is perfectly fine and I do not expect it to fail any sooner than any other drive shaft. My boot does not come in contact with my crossover pipe with the TF spacers. My rear shaft does not come anywhere close to the evap skid, but I see how it could if your rear axle is not centered. I have no plans to replace either of my DS unless they fail. Just want you to hear the other side. There are a lot of people who swear that DS need to be replaced, but this is my 4th lifted JK and I ahve never replaced a DS.
moving the exhaust cross over with the TF spacers will help prevent your slip shaft boot from getting damaged but your cv boot at the output shaft will still be in a constant state of pinch. stock, this boot will last a very long time but, in this state, you may only get about a year or so before it fails.
