suicideking

I see no reason to replace the stock lockers unless they are actually failing. They work just fine. Wait until/if they start to show signs of failure. Plus, if they did fail, it's not likely that both front and rear would fail at the same time. So you'd still have a locker. Unless you're doing SUPER hard core stuff, you'll rarely need both lockers. On most obstacles, you'll want to use the rear only so that you can still steer with ease.

My vote if you're on a budget, would be to get the Rubi axles. You can get the choromoly shafts later when you budget allows. Or sleeve the front and be done with it. I'd also add the gussets which are inexpensive.

v8zracer260z

Having just replaceing mine I went with a Pro Rock 44 unlimited in the front and a used factory rubi in the back. It was 5k for the front with RCV, ARB and Synergy joints and 900 for the rear assy. I was lucky and had 3k from the insurance company to help offset the cost so for me it was a no brainer to go pro rock and run the factory locker till it fails then go ARB and Crome shafts in the back. I would go with the Rubi axles gusset them and replace parts as budget allows or as they fail if they do. The factory rubi stuff is more than enough unless you like the rocks or are heavy on the skinny pedal.

Hammerstien

The problem with the 30 is this...

tiltz

I would get the Rubi Axles. The front can be made plenty strong with the addition of inner/outer sleeves or a truss (or any combination) and C gussets. The axle housing will no longer be the weak link at that point and will be comparable in strength any of the replacement housings.

You can get lockers right away and upgrade as necessary.

Before I bought my Rubi, I had a sport. I spent $3500 on ARBs front and rear with 4.88s (that is parts and diff install only - i installed compressor, switches, etc.). If I was in your position, I would spend the $3500 on the Rubi axles (I would try and get them cheaper).... And then:

Beef up the front end as funds allow.
Regear if necessary
Change out shafts if you wheel hard
And all of the other odds and ends as you desire

And last point - I have heard of Rubi-Lockers having issues. I have also beat on mine quite a bit and wheel with others that have beat on theirs for years without issues. In any case, the issues i have heard of have always been engagement issues (not grenaded diffs). Although, that is annoying, it is not like it would keep you stuck on the trail. You can slide the locker engagement disk with a screwdriver through the diff filler hole with careful maneuvering (or removal of diff cover if necessary). Or have to drive a bit on the street locked up if you are mechanically challenged.

Sgt Mack

Sounds good guys thanks. I think I'll do the rubis and just build up a bit. I really just need equal gears and better then stock setup.

Redman333

I've see this before. I'm curious what a stock 3.73 looks like in comparison. I plan on running my stock 3.73 Dana 30 until it breaks with 37" mud grapplers.

suicideking

Sleeve, gusset, and truss and it won't break.

Blakspire

That won't help the ring and pinion gears on the 30. The Rubi axles are fine, beat the hell out of mine and never had issues. I sleeved, gusseted, and replaced the ball joints with some aftermarket units. Do that and you will have a fairly bulletproof axle for under a thousand bucks, after you get it that is.

Redman333

I know when you go up in gearing the pinion gets pretty small but how is it in it stock 3:73. I don't plan to regear since I have a 2012 auto.