GJeep

Let's see...
I agree with your choice of 4.1 for 90% of your driving.

As for the 10% offroading:
I think that a decision should be according to the 90% of the driving, and not according to the 10% of the driving.
Especially so, when those 10% are on easy-moderate trails.
I drove across some pretty difficult obstacles with 4.1 . Not having 4.56 gearing didn't make me feel limited.

For typical, relatively slow offroading, what we look for is more torque rather than more hp.
The change from 3.21 to 4.1 means 28% more torque. That's a meaningful increase.
The next step, from 4.1 to 4.56, is just 11%.
That's 11% more rpm during 90% of the driving, and not enough torque increase to be justifiable for the 10% of the driving on easy-moderate trails.

The bottom line with Jeeps is that driving skills typically are more important than the Jeep.
I've seen many cases when a driver with a "lesser" Jeep smoothly drove though, while another driver with taller lift, good 37"s, etc', struggled a few times before managing to cross the very same obstacle.
Gaining experience and improving the driving skills contribute much more than the 11% of gearing difference.

Tough obstacle?, need more torque? -- that's what the 'Low' is for, and it gives plenty.

Also, I'd rather have lockers on both axles, than go from 4.1 to 4.56.

That's how I see it...

twoxstreem

I have 4.10s in my 12 auto w 35s. It's perfect for a DD and drives nice on the highway and around town. It doesn't down shift often at all on highway hills at 70.

I have a small M416 trailer and when it's loaded It pulls fine except on long climbs and then it's just drops out of overdrive which is no big deal.

But 90% of the time 4.10s are great for a DD.

4.56 are considered by most the perfect gear and next time I will try then but 4.10 are ok for a DD.

Just make sure to buy quality gears from Spicer. I bought Nitro gears and they were a disaster and exploded after only 2500 miles. It was an expensive mistake and Nitro customer service was terrible.

GJeep

Yes, many would prefer 4.56, but then, many also prefer way too much - or too many - extra lights, which they usually don't use on roads, which shed light half a mile ahead instead of on the trail right in front of the Jeep, and the too bright light prevents the driver from seeing anything outside the light circle.
'Many', or 'most', do not convince me, definitely not when it contradicts with my own experience.

Da10A

If I decided to go from 33 inch tires to 35s, I would definitely go with 4.56 on my '13 10A.

northlander

I also went back and forth on this decision for months, literally. Had 3.73s originally which were just barely OK. I had myself convinced that 4.10s were the right decision, then I changed my mind and did 4.56s.

Mine is a 2013
3.6L Auto
2.5" AEV lift
LOD mid width front bumper and winch
34" Duratracs

I have to say that I am completely delighted with the choice of 4.56s. The driveability is way better in town and my fuel mileage increased a bit. On the highway, I am getting around 18mpg at 55-65 MPG and 16.5-17 range at 75+ mpg. I am plenty happy with that!

Germ

Awesome post! By the way when I say 90% DD.... That is only because I have to work all the freaking time to pay for this stuff. I get out anytime I have free time.

Also I don't just ride gravel roads... I've went down some trials I probably shouldn't have before like hells revenge,top of the world, 7 mile rim, in Moab... Try that on 35s with 3.21 and 15psi... Almost didn't have a clutch left when I got off that trail.

On 4L, I don't want to have to "ride the clutch" to take off on a hill or over a rock... Are the 4.1 good for that?

Germ

What rpm are you turning @ 70-75?

Germ

Great post!! Thanks

GJeep

You're welcome.
So, the "10%" are "Big 10%"?
And no, I'm not going to try '35s with 3.21 and 15psi'...

After the big improvement from 3.21 to 4.1, the next step from 4.1 to 4.56 is smaller, just 11% increase in torque and rpm.
I don't think that there would be a meaningful difference between 4.1 or 4.56, re' the clutch.
It's usually too much rpm when releasing the clutch, rather than the 4.1 vs 4.56, that wears it.

It's also slower, or faster, by 11% for the same rpm.
When crawling, that's, for instance, 3mph vs 3.09mph, which is negligible.

With 4.56, 90% of your driving will be at unnecessarily higher rpm and lower mpg.
The advantage of higher gear ratio would really materialize at the toughest or most extreme offroading, and as you know, the vast majority of your offroad miles aren't extreme.
With 4.1, you'll have better gearing for roads. Offroad, the "loss" is more theoretical than real. I have yet to see 4.1 fail where only 4.56 can cross...
The little bit less torque on steep inclines, or the little bit less engine stopping on steep declines, IMO, simply isn't worth it, on a DD.
4.56 also causes somewhat higher strain on the drive system.

Germ

I have a 4.10 ring and pinion out of a 2014 rubicon sitting in my garage with less than 1000 miles on it. Will that work on my 2013 rear non rubicon carrier or true trac locker?