aftermarket transmission questions..
#1
JK Super Freak
Thread Starter
aftermarket transmission questions..
ok--my transmission failed after a mud run at Rausch Creek. yes, it was my fault, i should know better.
i already had my transmission rebuild at 65K miles, i'm about 85K now. i'm afraid to have it rebuilt again.
my two options are rebuilt transmission from Jaspers or something called a Road Ripper 1000.
Jaspers seems like a basic replacement, the Road Ripper claims to be a stronger build.
both have comparable warranties, and are within the same price range.
any feedback or suggestions?
the two codes that show up are
P0732
P0841--i think 841 is a bad solenoid.
i already had my transmission rebuild at 65K miles, i'm about 85K now. i'm afraid to have it rebuilt again.
my two options are rebuilt transmission from Jaspers or something called a Road Ripper 1000.
Jaspers seems like a basic replacement, the Road Ripper claims to be a stronger build.
both have comparable warranties, and are within the same price range.
any feedback or suggestions?
the two codes that show up are
P0732
P0841--i think 841 is a bad solenoid.
#2
JK Freak
What failed on the 65K mile one? Broke a shaft? Clutch failure? Planetary? Pump went to shit? O-ring failed and bled pressure that wiped out a clutch set?
Do you know what failed on the rebuilt one (other than the solenoid?)
I used to rebuild my own as well as other folks auto transmissions in race/sled-pull diesels and there were hydraulic upgrade kits (Trans-Go, SONAX and others) as well as billet 300M shafts, custom reprogrammed valve bodies, triple disc billet convertors, multiple brands of upgraded clutches and steels, billet planet assemblies.... and on and on.
If I were to waste/kill my trans, I would want to know exactly why, perform a post mortem and decide what needs changed. Pressures? Hard parts? frictions and steels? Dirt/water/contamination caused the failure?
An automatic transmission is a fairly simple device at the mechanical level. The hydraulic programming side of it is a rubics cube.
If the failure from your mud run was related to the mud/water getting in, then even a Titan 10.27-million would still have failed. Just fix what broke and move on. If you over powered your clutches and smoked them, I would look for a Trans-Go update kit that can bump pressures and go for upgraded clutches and steels.
Get the ATSG book for your transmission, buy a master kit, and go for it! You'll have to make a couple "special tools" to push/compress the stack, but it's not that bad.
Do you know what failed on the rebuilt one (other than the solenoid?)
I used to rebuild my own as well as other folks auto transmissions in race/sled-pull diesels and there were hydraulic upgrade kits (Trans-Go, SONAX and others) as well as billet 300M shafts, custom reprogrammed valve bodies, triple disc billet convertors, multiple brands of upgraded clutches and steels, billet planet assemblies.... and on and on.
If I were to waste/kill my trans, I would want to know exactly why, perform a post mortem and decide what needs changed. Pressures? Hard parts? frictions and steels? Dirt/water/contamination caused the failure?
An automatic transmission is a fairly simple device at the mechanical level. The hydraulic programming side of it is a rubics cube.
If the failure from your mud run was related to the mud/water getting in, then even a Titan 10.27-million would still have failed. Just fix what broke and move on. If you over powered your clutches and smoked them, I would look for a Trans-Go update kit that can bump pressures and go for upgraded clutches and steels.
Get the ATSG book for your transmission, buy a master kit, and go for it! You'll have to make a couple "special tools" to push/compress the stack, but it's not that bad.