jnabird333

That may be the difference, I have a Rubi so the T-Case is a 4:1. Adding better gearing is the better way to handle the inertia issues than to add inertia to the flywheel. More inertia means the engine will not be as dynamic and can't rev as quickly.

It depends on the reasoning for replacement on warranty coverage. While you are correct that the clutch is considered a wear item , mine does not need replace due to wear. The bearing is bad. Additionally my transmission has already been out at 1800 miles to fix another issue so I can argue the damage was caused by improper alignment when reinstalled. (This is actually what I think the problem is.)

alects

I just replaced my clutch in my 2012. After all my research I found the spec stage 2+ is the way to go paired with a national TOB. Even my friend that installed mine at the dealership said the clutch looks and feels like a huge improvement over stock, same with the TOB. This was only a few days ago when I bought the clutch and I called centerforce to ask when their clutch for 2012s was coming out, the guy on the phone made it sound like it would be a while until they distribute them...
For you guys with the squeaky TOBs I would suggest the national bearing. It's like $35 and it's great!
Overall I spent $650 on the clutch and TOB off some good deals on the internet. Not sure how the clutch compares to the new centerforce though because I didn't even know they came out with it already


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sgtkersh

It's only wear after 12k miles, until then unless there's obvious abuse, like mud, it's a warranty claim. My TOB was shot at 11k miles and the dealer replaced the entire clutch under warranty. I'm now over 25k miles and no issues. I think the 12-13s had some really bad TOBs. They are normally bad, but there seemed to be a run that was really bad. They said mine basically fell apart when they tried to take it out.


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hieneken49

does anyone know if that will fit on a 12? Centerforce only lists the complete kit for the 12s and i dont want their heavy flywheel