Aftermarket bumper, rake elimination options
#1
Aftermarket bumper, rake elimination options
Hello! Will be purchasing a full width front bumper this month(e-autogrilles 51-0358), and want to eliminate the factory rake. I am curious on what is the most cost effective and efficient way to do this, and what my options are. I will be on the farm and beach a few times a week, not on trails, so I'm not too worried about the "what will happen at full flexion" because I am sure I will never even see 75% flex. Currently I have a 2" Zone coil spacer lift in front and rear with extended bump stops, and run 315/75/r16 Duratracs.
Should I remove the 2" coilspacer in the back and put in 1" to "level" it, or should I be looking into new front coils to raise it to the height of the rear? I have not the slightest idea where to begin with the coils for I seem to get lost in the tech and jargon, so please the more information/size/stiffness/brand recommendations the better. The goal is to be level after the bumper is installed.
Any pros and cons or notables I should be aware of? Thanks!
2013 JKU
2" Zone coilspacer lift
315/75/r16 Duratrac
Procomp7069(bs= 4, os= -12)
Should I remove the 2" coilspacer in the back and put in 1" to "level" it, or should I be looking into new front coils to raise it to the height of the rear? I have not the slightest idea where to begin with the coils for I seem to get lost in the tech and jargon, so please the more information/size/stiffness/brand recommendations the better. The goal is to be level after the bumper is installed.
Any pros and cons or notables I should be aware of? Thanks!
2013 JKU
2" Zone coilspacer lift
315/75/r16 Duratrac
Procomp7069(bs= 4, os= -12)
#2
When you're dealing with spacer pucks, it's a bit easier from the standpoint you know the actual amount of lift you're adding. When dealing with new springs......no telling what the actual net lift will be until you do it. It sounds like you'd be better off removing the rear puck and replacing with a smaller spacer to me. Rake sure bothers some people.....I guess it doesn't bother me that much. Top on/off, doors on/off, tools and spare in/out....it's a constantly moving target on mine.
#3
When you're dealing with spacer pucks, it's a bit easier from the standpoint you know the actual amount of lift you're adding. When dealing with new springs......no telling what the actual net lift will be until you do it. It sounds like you'd be better off removing the rear puck and replacing with a smaller spacer to me. Rake sure bothers some people.....I guess it doesn't bother me that much. Top on/off, doors on/off, tools and spare in/out....it's a constantly moving target on mine.
I think your right though, even though I really hoped to lift the front to align to the rear and not drop the rear to align with the front, going the 1" spacer in the rear instead of the 2" is going to be much less of a head scratcher than hoping I purchase the proper front spring that will raise her level to the height of the rear
and ya it's defntly a looks thing for sure, love the appearance of leveled compared to factory
Last edited by vonlupus624; 04-10-2018 at 03:50 PM.
#4
Y, springs vary from manufacture to manufacture, type of spring, weight of jeep, etc. Often times you net more actual lift vs. what is stated. Throw a 2.5" spring on a light jeep, you could easily see 3.5" of lift. Anyhow, when trying to dial in rake like you are, a new spring is going to add a huge X factor, whereas you slide a 2" puck on current springs, you can expect to see 2" of lift and so on and so forth.
#5
Hey hope you got your all the answers to your question. I see that you are interested in one of our bumpers. Give us a call and we can help you out with special pricing. Just say to get the forum discount!