jayrav

Hey Chuck!

One question: The AEV HS kit raises the trackbar from the axel end right? I ask since I was under the impression that raising the TB on the axel end on a lifted JK could break. The guys at AEV are very smart and put alot of thought into their products before releasing them to the public, but they have been questioned before about their suspension kits like the cam bolts and the front shock relocation. What are your thoughts? Anyone else can chime in as well. An engineer maybe

Littlejon

They locate their braket off of the stock bracket, but they don't acutally use the factory bracket to attach the track bar. Their new bracket uses heavier gauge metal, and also has u-bolts to spread the strain of the track bar similar to the way many other kits are going in the rear now.

ScottK

I'm in the middle of installing the AEV high steer, along with a Currie lift. The bracket not only uses the u-bolts, it also attaches to the lower sway bar link bracket. I'm no expert, but it seems extremely strong. I'm also installing the rear trackbar tower.

ScottK

They have since came up with a bracket for relocating the front shocks. They were included in my High Steer kit.

chuck45

The front track bar is very well attached and braced. I don't think it will break. The rear track bar is extremly well braced and looks bulletproof. I was one of the ones very critical of their use of cam bolts. One of the reasons Jim Frens took me on the Banzai off road run was to show the abuse the cam bolts can take. By the time I went on the run he had taken quite a few others; such that they brand new the day before Goodyear MTR's had the outside tread shreaded. The cam bolts seemed to hold up ok; but I still don't like them. I think the AEV kit with Currie or Clayton arms would be ideal. They did tell me that they were going to offer adjustable arms to satisfy customer demands. I don't know if they plan on a complete set or just adj lowers or uppers.

RedneckJeep

I agree.....I don't like them, either.............HOWEVER, there is a trick that will make cam bolts damn near IMPOSSIBLE to slip. Before you install them, take a center punch and dimple the insides of the cam bolts. Also do this with the mating surface where the cams will seat. It gives some "tooth" for the cams lock down on to. This will ensure they will not move. I used to do this on the '88 and up GM trucks that needed cam bolts installed. It works very well.

chuck45

I think my prejudice against cam bolts comes from Suburbans I've owned that had knockouts and cam bolts. The dealer killed you on the first alignment. As I recall the trick was to complain before the warranty ran out so they would cover the initial alignment under warrantee. But they did slip.

RedneckJeep

They damn sure did. They were bad about it, too. But I got the bright idea of dimpling a set that I had trouble with, and it never came back. I always really wondered about those trucks. I mean, These Jeeps come caster and camber non adjustable from the factory, and they seem to have very little trouble. I can remember when I worked for GM, we got them in all the time that needed cam bolts to get them in spec. That's quality for you.

chuck45

I don't think there would be any problems with the Jeep having non adjustable camber and caster - IF people left them stock. Of course people aren't going to do that.................well, at least nobody on this list.

jayrav

YOU GOT THAT RIGHT