gnarly_mike

I want to put together RK 3.5 Springs, RK adjustable trackbar up front, synergy 3" raised TB bracket in back, and some extended sway links up front.

I do not want to "HAVE" to purchase control arms up front right away, because I have not yet decided what brand(or type of joints rather) I want to use.

I am wondering if anyone can offer any thoughts on these.

I know I'll lose a little belly clearance at the CA mounts but it'll be on 37s with 3.5 springs so I'm not too worried about that.

Ideally, I want to get Synergy/RK drag link flip/high steer kit BEFORE I decide on and purchase control arms. This leaves me with the idea of geometry correction brackets to get back as much of the stock feel and geometry as possible.

I haven't really searched but these are only made for the front CA's, correct? Are they not "needed" for the rear since it doesn't do any steering(less bump steer reaction)?

I know there are other brands also, is there another brand that is superior in design to the AEV?

Does anyone run the brackets WITH adjustable control arms?

Thanks

Albino Lizard

I believe 3 companies make geometry correction brackets ( aev, rancho, metal cloak). Of those I believe Rancho is the strongest. Everything is welded together.

I have a new philosophy on the brackets after looking at things a bit. I like the idea and think it is a good alternative to a long arm kit. If you look at long arm kits, they essentially do the same thing. The idea is to get the lower control arm back to as flat a position as possible to aid in on road performance.

Before everyone starts hating and screaming about ground clearance, consider this: a long arm will pass through the same area of space that the drop bracket occupies.

I say go for it. Its way cheaper than after market control arms and about 1/25th the price of a long arm kit. What do you really have to lose?

LidLess07X

If you are not concerned about the little bit of ground clearance you lose, then I would highly recommend the brackets over sdjustable control arms. In some ways, brackets are superior to adjustable control arms and not just a cheaper alternative.

gnarly_mike

So am I correct in my a assumption as to why I'm not seeing brackets for the rear control arms? I didn't do more than a quick 5 minute search while sitting on the porcelain throne haha....but I didn't come across any for the rear.

Does it not matter back there? Does anyone offer them for the rear too?

I noticed the ones for the front aren't just for the LCA's anymore but also the UCA's. If I remember I used to see them just for the lowers. Maybe I didn't pay attention enough

I agree with the comparison vs a long arm kit. I would love to have the money to spend on a set of long arms and brackets, I would not even be on this forum asking questions about anything. But..reality.

So, anybody know anything about brackets for the rear? Any thoughts on grinding off stock mounts and moving them backwards a tad to move the rear axle back instead of doing so with control arms? Is this opening a can of worms for when I actually have adjustable arms?

DunnyBunny

There are no brackets for the rear. If anything I would recommend rear upper arms at least if you do not want to get the full kit. If your not having clearance issues at the pinch seam them it's not really a huge deal.

For the front I believe the always both the upper and lower frame side of the arms. I've had the AEV and they work as they are intended to.

When you look into the control arms I would look into Metalcloak, Synergy, or even to proven and trusted Currie. All great companies and great joints.

gnarly_mike

Yeah Currie is high on my list due to the Johnny Joints, and I've been hearing good stuff about Metalcloak's new style, duroflex joints I believe is what they are.

If I can get away with lifting it to my desired height without buying control arms, and not come away with absolute trash ride quality, I will be saving for a long arm kit probably. I know some think it's a waste but I just feel like it is the "best" way to lift a fatass JKU at 3.5in+
And I will be using RK springs most likely so I may or may not get up to like 4in of lift. I have PSC bumpers, skids, and frame mounted rocker knockers though so idk. Maybe I'll get the advertised 3.5 height. All I know is I like the way they sit on RK 3.5 springs. And the cost is lower than say, Synergy's 3in ones. I do love Synergy's quality though.

Nobody really uses Currie much as far as I can tell unless they're professionals or shop owners really. Is it just because it's so much more pricey? I plan to eventually use their Anti-Rock swaybar systems in the end phases of the build. They make great products

DunnyBunny

Have you considered metal cloaks 3.5"? Both RK and MC advertised heights are with a loaded heavy jeep so you will likely get that height for sure if not more. MC has the longest free length which means you can run some longer shocks and get more travel without the spring unseating. For long armsRK, Synergy and even EVO are a good choice. EVO uses the Johnny joints but like Currie are expensive. You could always build your own for much cheaper and use any joint you want. Talk with invest2me as he built his own arms using MC joints.

gnarly_mike

MAN I have wanted to find someone who's built their own arms for the longest time! I've considered asking places around Central Texas from Dallas to Austin to Houston about making some for me, but figure I will end up at the same price as marketed/branded arms by asking some random shop to do something custom like that and adding in the cost of 8 joints on top of it.

I was also asking in another thread, albeit less specifically, about which springs were the "best" basically wondering which had the most free length and would allow the most travel, but didn't get any answers. My buddy has RK 2.5 and the times I've ridden in it/driven it they felt good. But I didn't have anything to compare it to except Mopar(teraflex) stage 3 or stock coils. Both of those setups also are running fox 2.0 remote reservoirs for shocks too so that has a bit to do with the feel obviously.

I am definitely not afraid of going the custom route, as that can be tailored to your needs/likes and can easily end up superior to anything offered on the market if you know what you're doing.

Thanks for pointing me in his direction. I'm sure it's only a matter of time before I annoy him with questions haha.

gnarly_mike

I guess I'm now looking at MC coils...

DunnyBunny

The resi shocks really aren't needed unless your driving fast off-road for extended periods of time or cycling your suspension a lot rock crawling. Fox can tend to be a little stiff but I actually liked mine. MC recommends the BDS tuned Fox shocks for their coils as they and a lot of customers have found those to be the best MC and Fox pairing as far as ride quality. Actually I want to say it was customers who recommended the pairing to MC based of their experience and MC tested it out, agreed, and now offer them with their lifts as a package.

The cost of joints isn't too bad actually. For the MC forged ends, they are $60 a piece. So about $360 for the threaded ends. Another $240 for the other ends with housings. Well maybe not much cheaper but cheaper none the less when you add in the cost of DOM tubing and some labor. Johnny joints are about the same cost. You can source brackets. Synergy long arm kit is about $2500. EVO is about the same price and uses JJ and are adjustable while bolted in. So it's really up to you.