AEV geometry correction brackets?
01-11-2014, 08:50 PM
#21
JK Freak
Thread Starter
Rancho Part No. RS6250B - Lower Control Arm Axle Mounts
People I know on WF called QT and they price matched the $120
People I know on WF called QT and they price matched the $120
01-11-2014, 09:52 PM
#23
JK Junkie
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Quinlan, TX
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I personally love my Rough Country geometry correcting brackets. Been using them over a year and they costed less than $100 shipped to my door.
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Sent from my Samsung S4 Active using telepathic dolphin fingers.
01-12-2014, 05:35 AM
#24
JK Junkie
In order to install the bracket on the passenger side you will have to pry away the exhaust Y-pipe. The easiest way to do so is to put the factory scissor jack between the pipe and the frame. The strain on the Y-pipe will stress your exhaust manifold which has the potential to crack. It happened to me. If it happens to you, you will hear a ticking noise from the engine especially when the manifold is still cold. In the meantime I have installed stainless steel headers and next time I would opt for adjustable LCAs. No hassle with the Y-pipe and more ground clearance.
I personally would not do this. Don't want to damage your stuff. Better and safer choice is to undo the pipe from the manifold or just cut the damn bolt and get a replacement bolt. The latter is by far the easiest. I wouldn't do something that has potential of damaging important components of your engine
01-12-2014, 06:48 AM
#25
In order to undo and reattach the Y-pipe from the manifold you have to remove the entire front fender flare with the fender liner and you will most likely break some plastic clips by doing so. I agree that this would have been better for the manifolds though but not as easy as it seems.
Cutting the bolt may be a start but you wont get that replacement in there either because of the Y-pipe.
My manifolds were slightly cracked before the install of the correction brackets. So the cracks only got worse from prying the Y-pipe out of the way. I didn't mind replacing the manifolds as it was about time to do so anyway.
Cutting the bolt may be a start but you wont get that replacement in there either because of the Y-pipe.
My manifolds were slightly cracked before the install of the correction brackets. So the cracks only got worse from prying the Y-pipe out of the way. I didn't mind replacing the manifolds as it was about time to do so anyway.
01-12-2014, 07:20 AM
#26
JK Junkie
In order to undo and reattach the Y-pipe from the manifold you have to remove the entire front fender flare with the fender liner and you will most likely break some plastic clips by doing so. I agree that this would have been better for the manifolds though but not as easy as it seems. Cutting the bolt may be a start but you wont get that replacement in there either because of the Y-pipe. My manifolds were slightly cracked before the install of the correction brackets. So the cracks only got worse from prying the Y-pipe out of the way. I didn't mind replacing the manifolds as it was about time to do so anyway.
But yes you can get a new bolt in if you cut the factory one. I did it. You can't put it in like the factory had it but you can from the other side. If you look there is an access hole through your frame that you can stick the bolt thru from the outer part of the vehicle. Just use some long needle nose to do it. You can maybe find the boot at hardware store but just go to dealership and but a new one before the install.
01-12-2014, 07:23 AM
#27
JK Enthusiast
I installed these (AEV Brackets) a few weeks ago. I did only have 2.5" lift, but there was a very small difference in performance. Not the night/day that others refer to. For $100, I would do it again though. Also, I did not have to move any exhaust components to accommodate the install, but it is a 2014.
01-12-2014, 07:30 AM
#28
Alright so if you ever lookup a install thread on these almost all of them discuss that one bolt. And most of them cut it. Yes I'll agree taking the y pipe off is not ideal and a pia but it's safer. I personally wouldn't do it either.
But yes you can get a new bolt in if you cut the factory one. I did it. You can't put it in like the factory had it but you can from the other side. If you look there is an access hole through your frame that you can stick the bolt thru from the outer part of the vehicle. Just use some long needle nose to do it. You can maybe find the boot at hardware store but just go to dealership and but a new one before the install.
But yes you can get a new bolt in if you cut the factory one. I did it. You can't put it in like the factory had it but you can from the other side. If you look there is an access hole through your frame that you can stick the bolt thru from the outer part of the vehicle. Just use some long needle nose to do it. You can maybe find the boot at hardware store but just go to dealership and but a new one before the install.
01-12-2014, 08:23 AM
#29
JK Junkie
Alright, if you can install a new bolt from the other side, then AEV should include a new bolt in their geometry correction kit just in case you have to deal with the Y-pipe of the old 3.8L. I would definitely prefer to cut the bolt instead of risking the integrity of the exhaust system.
I have chopped fenders so pulling the fender liner was easy but the 2 bolts were so rusted and seized I wasn't chancing breaking them on the y pipe to manifold.
I would say AEV needs better install instructions and a warning or caution on there product description of the possibility of having issues with that bolt.
01-12-2014, 08:51 AM
#30
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Locust Grove, Arkansas
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Just installed these (AEV) brackets on my 2012 and I'm very pleased with the improved ride and handling. I'm running a procomp 2.5 in lift. I didn't have to cut or pry the passenger side bolt just remove the bolt on the upper control arm on the front axel it will give you the slack you need on a 2012 anyway. Be sure to chock the wheels to prevent the axel from shifting forward. Easy to correct if you forget just roll it back with your hands and kick a board under the tire to chock it in place.