Advice on how to plan my build
09-04-2024, 02:04 PM
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Advice on how to plan my build
Hey, I have a manual 2018 JK that I got with the plan to build it up eventually when life made it possible. After some researching and asking friends, settled on a 3.5 inch lift on 35s. One friend did warn me about different pieces to remember to get like gears and probably a new driveshaft. I have to front Dana 30 and Dana 44 rear. From what I've read, the 44 should be ok for moderate wheeling, so I'd need to swap the front. Also considered adding a truss and gusset to have some extra peace of mind. I'm not quite sure of all the logistics that I need to consider to make that swap happen. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
09-05-2024, 03:21 AM
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No lockers yet. That another thing on the list. Still totally stock at the moment. Just been using it that way as much as I can. As for the extent of my planned use; I don't plan on doing any extreme rock crawling or highly advanced trails. But the typical dirt, mud, sand, smaller rocks and ledges, etc.
09-05-2024, 03:37 AM
#4
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Don't be so quick to worry about swapping the d30 for 35s. I beat the crap out of mine east coast wheeling, no issues on 35s, locked with 4.88 gears (ARB). No gussets, no trusses on the front or rear. That axle is not worth much to anyone, so it's not like you are losing a ton of money if you find a way to brick it. Send it down the trail, and replace if it breaks.
Last edited by cartoscro; 09-05-2024 at 04:19 AM.
09-05-2024, 05:14 AM
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Don't be so quick to worry about swapping the d30 for 35s. I beat the crap out of mine east coast wheeling, no issues on 35s, locked with 4.88 gears (ARB). No gussets, no trusses on the front or rear. That axle is not worth much to anyone, so it's not like you are losing a ton of money if you find a way to brick it. Send it down the trail, and replace if it breaks.
09-05-2024, 06:11 AM
#6
JK Jedi
I will always suggest you lift for tires and nothing more. you don't need 3.5" to accommodate 35s. a good 2.5" lift is going to be plenty, and will likely net you more than 2.5" as it is. going higher isn't better, unless you just really enjoy high center of gravity and complicating running a good caster as much as possible. Staying with a 2.5" lift is going to make life easier on your front driveshaft, steering, and rollcenter.
I'd agree that there's no reason to worry about the D30 up front right now. the biggest issues start to come into play when you lock the front, go with deeper gearing like 5.38 (mainly on the 3.8L engines and pinion teeth getting small), and hard technical crawlin'. For what most people do the D30 isn't a big deal. it's more about how much money do you put into one knowing you still got that D30. The rear D44 is just fine. In fact, i'd rather have that vs. a rubi 44 cuz you have a lot of locker selection you can put back there and upgrade the axle shafts to 35-spline. if you're smart with the skinny peddle you'd be just fine with what you want to do. most people that can break a D30 up front are the type of folks that say "watch this!". I wouldn't bother with a truss. Gussets might not be bad idea, but probably not going to make a huge difference for you. Bent C's can happen, but not like it's an every day thing.....more likely due to accidents.
I'd agree that there's no reason to worry about the D30 up front right now. the biggest issues start to come into play when you lock the front, go with deeper gearing like 5.38 (mainly on the 3.8L engines and pinion teeth getting small), and hard technical crawlin'. For what most people do the D30 isn't a big deal. it's more about how much money do you put into one knowing you still got that D30. The rear D44 is just fine. In fact, i'd rather have that vs. a rubi 44 cuz you have a lot of locker selection you can put back there and upgrade the axle shafts to 35-spline. if you're smart with the skinny peddle you'd be just fine with what you want to do. most people that can break a D30 up front are the type of folks that say "watch this!". I wouldn't bother with a truss. Gussets might not be bad idea, but probably not going to make a huge difference for you. Bent C's can happen, but not like it's an every day thing.....more likely due to accidents.
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09-05-2024, 08:31 AM
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I will always suggest you lift for tires and nothing more. you don't need 3.5" to accommodate 35s. a good 2.5" lift is going to be plenty, and will likely net you more than 2.5" as it is. going higher isn't better, unless you just really enjoy high center of gravity and complicating running a good caster as much as possible. Staying with a 2.5" lift is going to make life easier on your front driveshaft, steering, and rollcenter.
I'd agree that there's no reason to worry about the D30 up front right now. the biggest issues start to come into play when you lock the front, go with deeper gearing like 5.38 (mainly on the 3.8L engines and pinion teeth getting small), and hard technical crawlin'. For what most people do the D30 isn't a big deal. it's more about how much money do you put into one knowing you still got that D30. The rear D44 is just fine. In fact, i'd rather have that vs. a rubi 44 cuz you have a lot of locker selection you can put back there and upgrade the axle shafts to 35-spline. if you're smart with the skinny peddle you'd be just fine with what you want to do. most people that can break a D30 up front are the type of folks that say "watch this!". I wouldn't bother with a truss. Gussets might not be bad idea, but probably not going to make a huge difference for you. Bent C's can happen, but not like it's an every day thing.....more likely due to accidents.
I'd agree that there's no reason to worry about the D30 up front right now. the biggest issues start to come into play when you lock the front, go with deeper gearing like 5.38 (mainly on the 3.8L engines and pinion teeth getting small), and hard technical crawlin'. For what most people do the D30 isn't a big deal. it's more about how much money do you put into one knowing you still got that D30. The rear D44 is just fine. In fact, i'd rather have that vs. a rubi 44 cuz you have a lot of locker selection you can put back there and upgrade the axle shafts to 35-spline. if you're smart with the skinny peddle you'd be just fine with what you want to do. most people that can break a D30 up front are the type of folks that say "watch this!". I wouldn't bother with a truss. Gussets might not be bad idea, but probably not going to make a huge difference for you. Bent C's can happen, but not like it's an every day thing.....more likely due to accidents.
From what I have read on another thread somewhere, is that a front locker probably isn't necessary for my intended use. Like you said, no need to put money into the D30, just add a locker to the rear D44 and should be fine. And do you mean upgrading the rear to 35-spline axle shafts?
09-05-2024, 08:45 AM
#9
JK Jedi
it's always best to at least budget along the way for a new front driveshaft. I've seen the front shaft go on a jeep with 2.5" budget boost that never left the pavement even. the problem is always just that the boot protecting the CV joint by the transfer case will rip, allowing grease to escape and lead to a dry joint that will eventually wear. never a huge deal, and always plenty of warning signs so always just something to keep in the back of the mind.
any traction control is good, so if you lock the rear that is going to be a big improvement, and if you do lock the rear then there is no sense doing a 30-spline locker, so you go up to 35-spline (rubi lockers are 32-spline). It just means that you'd have to replace the axles shafts to a chromoly 35-spline shaft, but you're going to be replacing rear shafts anyhow at some point cuz the factory shafts are just weak at the flange and will bend with the added stresses of large tires. SOOoo, you just upgraded them as you put the locker in....35-spline and be done. Up front, you could always do an LSD if felt like you'd need something but didn't want to lock it, or you can lock it and just use your noggin. if you ever DID consider a front axle swap, the real benefits are 1) additional built in caster, and 2) thicker brackets, axle tubes and Cs......but a new aftermarket front axle comes at a pretty steep cost.
one other thing i didn't mention above, you need to plan on some good ball joints. 35s is where you'll start to eat through some BJs.
any traction control is good, so if you lock the rear that is going to be a big improvement, and if you do lock the rear then there is no sense doing a 30-spline locker, so you go up to 35-spline (rubi lockers are 32-spline). It just means that you'd have to replace the axles shafts to a chromoly 35-spline shaft, but you're going to be replacing rear shafts anyhow at some point cuz the factory shafts are just weak at the flange and will bend with the added stresses of large tires. SOOoo, you just upgraded them as you put the locker in....35-spline and be done. Up front, you could always do an LSD if felt like you'd need something but didn't want to lock it, or you can lock it and just use your noggin. if you ever DID consider a front axle swap, the real benefits are 1) additional built in caster, and 2) thicker brackets, axle tubes and Cs......but a new aftermarket front axle comes at a pretty steep cost.
one other thing i didn't mention above, you need to plan on some good ball joints. 35s is where you'll start to eat through some BJs.
09-05-2024, 09:18 AM
#10
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it's always best to at least budget along the way for a new front driveshaft. I've seen the front shaft go on a jeep with 2.5" budget boost that never left the pavement even. the problem is always just that the boot protecting the CV joint by the transfer case will rip, allowing grease to escape and lead to a dry joint that will eventually wear. never a huge deal, and always plenty of warning signs so always just something to keep in the back of the mind.
any traction control is good, so if you lock the rear that is going to be a big improvement, and if you do lock the rear then there is no sense doing a 30-spline locker, so you go up to 35-spline (rubi lockers are 32-spline). It just means that you'd have to replace the axles shafts to a chromoly 35-spline shaft, but you're going to be replacing rear shafts anyhow at some point cuz the factory shafts are just weak at the flange and will bend with the added stresses of large tires. SOOoo, you just upgraded them as you put the locker in....35-spline and be done. Up front, you could always do an LSD if felt like you'd need something but didn't want to lock it, or you can lock it and just use your noggin. if you ever DID consider a front axle swap, the real benefits are 1) additional built in caster, and 2) thicker brackets, axle tubes and Cs......but a new aftermarket front axle comes at a pretty steep cost.
one other thing i didn't mention above, you need to plan on some good ball joints. 35s is where you'll start to eat through some BJs.
any traction control is good, so if you lock the rear that is going to be a big improvement, and if you do lock the rear then there is no sense doing a 30-spline locker, so you go up to 35-spline (rubi lockers are 32-spline). It just means that you'd have to replace the axles shafts to a chromoly 35-spline shaft, but you're going to be replacing rear shafts anyhow at some point cuz the factory shafts are just weak at the flange and will bend with the added stresses of large tires. SOOoo, you just upgraded them as you put the locker in....35-spline and be done. Up front, you could always do an LSD if felt like you'd need something but didn't want to lock it, or you can lock it and just use your noggin. if you ever DID consider a front axle swap, the real benefits are 1) additional built in caster, and 2) thicker brackets, axle tubes and Cs......but a new aftermarket front axle comes at a pretty steep cost.
one other thing i didn't mention above, you need to plan on some good ball joints. 35s is where you'll start to eat through some BJs.
I assume I can upgrade the rear axle shafts along with the lift and tires, then add the locker a bit later.
If I planned to do the lift, tires, axle shafts, ball joints, and new gearing all at once, along with bumpers and whatnot that I have no problem doing myself, I should be in decent shape for a bit at least. Then add in the rear locker in a bit later. Or is it worth it to just get it done together since the shop will already be regearing?