DirtDvl

Hey all,
I'm about to install Metalcloak's six-pack GC under my '14 JKUR. I also want to make some changes to the drive train. I have stock drive lines and axles that I want to upgrade. Problem is I can't afford to replace the axles and drivelines all at once. So my question is, should I do axles first, drivelines first or axle/driveline front, then rear or vice versa? Haven't settled on rear axles yet but will do either Woods or Coast drive lines. Front axles are likely to be RCVs.

I currently run a 4" lift on 35's with 4:10 gears. Live in the northwest and crawl/wheel rocks and trails with lumber falls, roots and holes. It's also my DD. C gussets and ball joints are on the list after the other stuff gets toughed up.

Thanks!

nthinuf

The front driveshaft and the rear axle shafts (flanges) may be what you want to watch. But no real reason to replace any of it until there is a need. Assuming they are all in good shape, I would gusset (possibly with a truss and/or sleeves) before worrying about driveshafts and axle shafts.

aermotor

Your rear shaft wont be a problem really and they are pretty strong. I would change our your front driveshaft and get new front axle shafts if you really want to for around $1100. Adam's Driveshaft makes some of the cheapest aftermarkets and they are great.

Invest2m4

I ran the same lift. Leave the rear driveshaft alone. And don't adjust the pinion angle when you put the lift on to point at the t-case (you want the pinion angle to match the t-case angle, don't point the pinion at the t-case).

Front you need to change to a 1310. It will still contact the exhaust at full droop, but you are hardly ever going to have both front tires off the ground while wheeling. I never had an issue and I wheeled the crap out of mine. Pretty sure I hold the record for most warranty claims on a JK at metalcloak.

I wouldn't bother with RCV shafts either. The Rubicons were given larger front u-joints in 2014. Should be fine with those on 35s.

Don't waste money on axles unless you plan to go over 37" tires. If not, sleeve/truss and gusset the front axle and be done with it.

DirtDvl

I've heard folks say good things about Adams. Is that what you're running now?

DirtDvl

I do plan to go to 37s when my current tires wear out. Sounds like apart from the axle housing, you're thinking the front shafts/u-joints are plenty strong enough even for crawling.

DirtDvl

To be clear, I'm not stoopid with the skinny pedal.

Invest2m4

I blew up my ring & pinion on my D44 slow crawling. I had RCV shafts. I'll never be certain, but plenty of people will say that had a u-joint broke, my R&P would not have. Swapping out a u-joint is easy. I'd run it as is and see how it goes - even with 37s. U-joint failures can often be avoided if you understand what is likely you cause it. For example, when dropping down off a rock, don't crank the wheels and get them wedged, etc. U-joints are weakest when the wheels are not straight. If you do have issues, I'd suggest looking at chromoly shafts and u-joints. Unless you plan to keep the 4.10 gearing, in which case you will probably be ok with RCVs. Although, 4.10 and 37s would bring the suck drivin on the road...

Stubicon

Would you say the RCVs, although stronger then say ten factory or others, are too strong for the D44? Thus causing a RP failure where an upgraded shaft like the ten factory or others would break the u-joint before the RP?

aermotor

I'm running a Tom Woods 1310 front and an Adam's 1310 rear with solid spicer joints on 37" tires.

There is no certainty when talking about what is stronger or the weak link: chromoly shafts vs u-joints etc. Every situation is different. You can try and plan where you want it to fail but I don't really it will always work out that way. You can mitigate risk with strong parts, but just because everything is strong does not mean something won't break.

Too much thinking make Hulk head hurt.