The D30 has a smaller ring and pinion than D44, and a D44 has a smaller ring and pinion than a D60 ect. So with the D30, has you go numerically higher in gears (I'd recommend 5.13's for you and 37's), the ring and pinion gets weaker and more prone to breakage. Doesn't mean it's a toothpick, but you don't wanna wheel a D30 like your in the KOH lol. I'm usually pretty crawly on the throttle and don't like to hit stuff all spinny and bouncy like.

If it were me, I would put a truss (I'd recommend artec) and gussets on it and wheel it along with the regear. I'd also recommend trying to make some jeep friends who could weld that stuff on for you vs paying a shop to do it. Labor turns my $130 truss/gussets into a job that's a few hundred. Do your research before anything. Don't take my word for it

 

As an alternative, you can do the Nitro hammer-in sleeves. $110 and a few hours of labor. The truss is arguably better than sleeves, but you better know someone who welds or you are looking at a huge labor bill (I've personally been quoted $700 just for labor).

In terms of sleeves, I actually prefer the Nitro. Tighter fit (can't get any tighter) and no welding on the axle tubes.

Just take it easy on the skinny pedal when on the trail. $400 or less for sleeves and gussets is not a significant investment. I wouldn't do much more than that though. Gears + lockers +.... Then you should look at a PR44 or used Rubicon axle.

 

I just bumped up to 37's and just sleeved my d30 to hopefully make it last until i can afford the PR44. So maybe not go all out but enough to get you by until you are ready to buy a PR

 

Even better question is do you (not you YOU, I have seen your build I think and you have the skill for sure ) have the skill/time/etc to do this swap?


Thread that Smashboogie mentioned.

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...-build-274896/

 

Yep, it's all about the total cost. If you can do the work yourself, building a stock housing can make a lot of sense. But if you are paying labor and the final cost is well over 4k, why would you not look at an aftermarket 44 or 60?

Don't know that you 'need' the strength of an aftermarket axle, but just from the parts list in post 1, the price is likely to end up in that ballpark...

 

There is a lot of confusion as to the difference between Rubicon and other JK(Sport, Sahara etc.) model axles. In principle, I agree with what has been posted previously but will add that one has to know what is planned for their vehicle to make an informed decision as to getting D60's, Rubicon axles or upgrading other model axles.

Most everyone knows the basics such as the Rubicon comes stock with lockers. Rubicon axles ARE different in other areas as well. You have no doubt noticed that all parts are NOT interchangeable between Rubicon and non-Rubicon axles. Some reasons are as follows:

The non-Rubicon D30 has a 7.2" Ring gear, 27 splines on the axles and has an axle diameter of 1.16".
The non Rubicon rear D44 has 8.5" ring gear, 30 splines on the axles and has an axle diameter of 1.31".

The D44 Rubicon Front axle has 8.5" ring gear, 30 splines on the axles and has an axle diameter of 1.31"
The D44 Rubicon Rear axle has 8.8" ring gear, 32 splines on the axles and has an axle diameter of 1.41"

(For reference, the D60 has a 9.75" ring gear, 35 splines on the axles and has an axle diameter of 1.50")

As you can see the Rubicon axles are stronger than other JK axles, However, BOTH Rubicon and non Rubicon axles have weak front (especially upper) knuckles. This is particularly a problem when running larger tires..... Sort of like using a hammer with a longer handle.

Many elect to not only reinforce the knuckles but also sleeve the axle as well. Axle sleeve reinforcement kits come in three flavors. (I have more info on sleeves/ gussets/trussing if there is interest)
(1) To be installed on the outside of the axle sleeve and plug welded to the axle sleeve.
(2) Installed on the inside of the sleeve and plug welded through holes drilled into to the axle sleeve.
(3) I believe NITTO is the only manufacture that offers a press fit reinforcement that is inserted inside the sleeve and driven/pounded in place instead of being welded. For reference, NITTO sleeve reinforcements are not as thick but have clearance to accept a 35 spline front axle. Many prefer NITTO because of this capability.

There are also manufactures out there that make a truss to reinforce the D30 and the D44.

In other words, one can significantly increase the strength of either Rubicon or non-Rubicon axles. If it were me, I would get Rubicon axles that already had lockers unless I wheeled pretty heavy....then I would do the D60.

Didn't mean to get this wordy but hope this helps to understand differences and similarities.

My $.02 worth....Aw what the heck, make it a nickle.

KG6SLC aka Eugene

 

Too funny.

 

Junkyard or takeoff D44 with the mods you planned doing to the 30..