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Advantages of Long Arm Lift Kit??

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Old 03-17-2011, 04:03 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by planman
I think that WOL has had more configurations than 4. Keep in mind that project-jk.com is an internet magazine and jk-forum is the magazine's co-business.

The writers/editors of JP Magazine have had their rigs go through several different builds to test a variety of aftermarket parts. Likewise, it makes sense that the self-employed owner of a JK specific internet magazine would go through several builds, do write-ups, test products, etc.

Shock length limits droop (unless you run limiting straps), and bumpstops limit stuff.

The length of the control arms on a JK are so much longer than on a TJ that they have less effect on flex/articulation.

On a TJ, if you ran shocks for a 4" lift or longer on short arms, the top of the control arm would hit the axle bracket before the shock fully extended.

On a JK, a shock designed to handle a 4"-5" lift can be fully extended to full droop with short arms.

On a JK or other vehicle, the amount of extended bumpstopping that is needed is determined by a combination of tire size, fender/flare clearance, and compressed shock lengths.
You almost seem to be arguing in favor of the short arm over the long arm lift?
Old 03-17-2011, 07:39 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by planman
It depends on the lift height and the intended use.

For rock crawling in boulder fields with a lift of 4" or less, short arms are better because they provide more clearance and don't get hung up on the rocks.

For higher speed, desert running, a long arm is better due to improved handling, reduced dive, etc.

For street and highway driving, at 4"+, a long arm is more desirable.

On my 2 dr, I run a 3.5" suspension lift on 40s. It is my daily driver in town. I don't do high speed desert-type driving. What I enjoy are rocks and rock climbing. My skid plates and frame rails have deep rock grooves in several places. For this rig, a long arm would be a hindrance, reduce clearance, and cause me to get hung up on rocks more frequently.

On my wife's 4 dr, she has the equivalent of a 6" lift from Offroad Evolution Coilovers. Her rig has a Teraflex long arm and 37" tires. At 6", a short arm lift would handle poorly on the road and highway. It would be less stable offroad when climbing steep ledges and dry waterfalls. We go on family trips with her rig at freeway speeds. For her rig, a long arm was the best way to go.

So yes. Depending on the circumstances, I do argue for a short arm over a long arm.

There are some long arm designs that do not reduce clearance as much as others. I would be open to a long arm on my 2 dr that stretched my wheelbase back another 5" or so. Maybe a 3 link design with high clearance arms. This would help me on my steep rock ledge climbs.
Wow, very nice post man. Really helps with the decision process. With a 4-door rubi, and the desire to clear 35's and possibly 37's, and on your feedback along with other stuff I have read, I think I am going to stick with the 3" SA lift, probably Teraflex. I will go to flat fender flares if I decide to make the move to 37's. I do think I am going to go with the 8 arms though, just to make sure the angles are correct and the axles are centered, especially with most of these lifts running high by an inch or two.
Old 03-17-2011, 07:56 AM
  #23  
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Sir

The Rock Krawler 3.5" X Factor Mid Arm System is designed to be able to run 37's with only 3.5" of lift. We push the rear axle back one inch so you will not need to trim the pinch weld in the back to clear 37" tall tires. It is a rock solid system. It includes all the control arms, track bars and the lower control arms are all high clearance arms! It is backed by our abuse proof lifetime warranty.

On a 4 door at this lift height this system really seems to fit the bill over a long arm system. The extra wheel base really makes up for alot. On a 2 door, you will notice a big difference between a long arm and mid arm system.

Here is a link to the system if you are interested. Click Here!

Good Luck with your build..

Rock Krawler
Old 03-17-2011, 08:20 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by planman
There are some long arm designs that do not reduce clearance as much as others. I would be open to a long arm on my 2 dr that stretched my wheelbase back another 5" or so. Maybe a 3 link design with high clearance arms. This would help me on my steep rock ledge climbs.
Planman- I thought the new EVO long arm brackets afford more clearance than a short arm bracket because of placement inside the frame instead of below? Either way, your points make a lot of sense to me. I sure wish I could head out to EJS or another big event and get the chance to ride in a few different configurations before making my final decision.
Old 03-17-2011, 08:31 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Flaxbourton
lol, what is that, 4 lifts in 3 years...?

Rubi08, I feel ya man. On one hand people seem to agree that if ever there was a jeep where teh SA might be in the same league as teh LA, then the 4 door JK is it. on the other there does seem to be some consensus that the ride on the highway will be marginally improved with an LA. Even here though, some people seem to imply that if you are getting 8 flex arms then those plus the long wheel base of the 4door JK negates most of that "pro" for the LA.

Also, I have seen many posts of some very serious flex shots from SAs. One recent one that I will go dig up had a guy comparing pics of his OME HD flexed vs. his dads LA (I believe it was a 4" FT) and you couldn't tell which had more flex to save your life.

I just don't know...
flex comes down to shock and coil length. Not short arm vs long arm
Old 03-17-2011, 09:57 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by planman
It depends on the lift height and the intended use.

For rock crawling in boulder fields with a lift of 4" or less, short arms are better because they provide more clearance and don't get hung up on the rocks.

For higher speed, desert running, a long arm is better due to improved handling, reduced dive, etc.

For street and highway driving, at 4"+, a long arm is more desirable.
...
So yes. Depending on the circumstances, I do argue for a short arm over a long arm.
I disagree with a portion of Planman's comments. I have found my long arms to be much more controllable in rock crawling situations. While short arms due provide more clearance (by tape measure), long arms provide the added benefit of using them as a slide point and as a pivot point. In other words with my previous short arm suspension, when I went over a ledge as my front tires lost traction I would fall until I hit bottom. With the long arms as I drop over a steep ledge I will have a controlled slide off of my control arms. Also in tight maneuvering in the rocks I can use my lower control arms as a pivot point much like we use our rock rails as pivot points.

In summary, I have found my FT long arm kit to be better in all respects to the short arms. I would highly recommend them to 4 doors with 4” and over lifts, and 2 doors with 3” and over lifts.


Originally Posted by Full-Traction Suspension
flex comes down to shock and coil length. Not short arm vs long arm
X 2
Old 03-17-2011, 10:05 AM
  #27  
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Sounds like a good way to ruin some arms to me, but to each his own.
Old 03-17-2011, 10:11 AM
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I can see that you might think that from mud country, but in the rocky west a few scratches on your lower control arms doesn't mean a thing. My control arms have groves cut in them about a 1/16" deep, but on an arm that is 1.75" in diameter it has absolutely no impact on strength or longevity.
Old 03-17-2011, 10:50 AM
  #29  
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The mud is the south where I'm from it's still about the rocks.
But I have seen plenty of guys hang up on their LA brackets. Now Saying that if I was going over 4" I would still get a LA kit, just not use it as a skid plate.
Old 03-17-2011, 11:07 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by planman
The long arms took a ton of abuse, but the bushings and flex joints didn't last as long as I would have wanted because I would use the arms to slide over ledges.
exactly to my point.


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