orig93gt

The shofter base must now be removed to replace the plastic lower segment of the handle with the much heavier stell unit from AA. Four bolts, 10mm if I remember correctly, release the base from the floorboard. Once the base is detached set it aside and feed the stock cable down through the rubber boot/grommet in the floor (dont pass the cable through the grommet, just squeeze the side of the boot and push it down through the floor, you'll remove this boot later to be re-installed on the new cable.

orig93gt

Here are a few comparison photos of the stock and AA cables. The AA instructions say that inorder to re-use the floor grommet, the stock cable must be cut in half, I just trimmed the narrowest portion of the grommet and slid it over the new cable. Once the boot/grommet was on the cable i worked it though the floor from above. Its a tight fit but if you feed it through the center console with your right hand you can guide it into the floor board opening with you left hand by reaching around the backside of the dash near the gas pedal.

orig93gt

The transformation of the stock half plastic/ half steel shifter to the stout all steel advance adapters set up is quick and easy. First remove the star washer from the large pin the the handle pivots on in the base, this pin readily sways out the side. pull the handle out and press out the small pivot pin that allows the shafter to lean to the side for 4lo. The instruction say to use a press or a bench vice and center punch. For the sake of saving a few minutes getting set up, I just pressed the pin out with a large pair of channel locks without any trouble. Once the pin is out pull off the plastic component and set aside the spring and bushing. Orient the new billet block according to the picture in the instruction and press the pivot pin back in, as before the channel locks did the trick for me. Check to make sure the handle pivots on the pin, install the bushing and spring into the drilled receiver and secure the coated steel plate with the two black bolts.

orig93gt

The heavily overbuilt bracket that retains the upper end of the cable to the shifter base goes on next. bolt the bracket to the base using the existing hole, using the installation manual pictures to confrim orientation, once in place use the bracket as a template to drill two 1/4" holes and secure with the two remaining bolts. Thecable bracket is shown to the left and the billet lower shifter is visible to the right in the photo.

orig93gt

Secure the heim joints to each cable end and bolt them to the shifter handle and t-case actuator arm with bolts and nylock nuts

orig93gt

Here is the finicky part, adjust the cable to dial-in the throw on the shifter, double and triple check to make sure that you can fully and smoothly engage 2, 4hi, neutral, and 4lo. Take your time, it may take a few tries to get it just right, but when you have it in the sweet-spot, lock the bolts in.

orig93gt

When I had the cable all dialed in, I bolted the driveshaft back up and went for a little test drive. Well guess what- a knocking noise. At first I though "what the hell did I forget to tighten?", as soon as I climbed back under I realized the clamp on the driveshaft boot was tapping the bacle on each turn, and actually knicked the out orange sheath (thanks you advance adapters for overbuilding this thing and outting a double sheath on it). So out comes the driveshaft again and i notice there is an unused tapped hole on the upper side of the tranny. After a little investigating I determine it is an 8mm x 1.25 metric bolt, so I sourced one and used a stainless steel ziptie (100lb rated and good to over 400 degrees F) to hold the cable away from the DS.

orig93gt

Oh, I almost forgot to mention when you put the yoke back on take a look at the seal, if its in good shape you shuould be allset to just bolt it back on, the AA instructions say to apply a bead of rtv on the splines to avoid a leak, but since the seal looked great I just bolted it back up, so far- nice and dry. When your reattaching the yoke dont guess, use a torque wrench, 150lb.

orig93gt

All in all, the install was pretty easy and straight forward. There were no unusal tools required, and it only took a few hours all together. The only part that was somewhat difficult (more akward than anything) was feeding the cable through the floor and getting it dialed in just right. I was concerned about drivetrain noise transmission into the interior, since there would no longer be a plastic barrier to break up the sound and vibrations. Around town I dont notice a difference, on the highway the drivetrain noise is slightly increased, but nothing too noticeable, I was listening for it, so to someone else it may not even be apparent. A liitle increased highway noise is well worth the peace of mind that comes with this kit, by the way the cable is tagged as being tested to 150 pounds push and 230 pounds pull, which far exceeds the pressure I exerted on my stock cable when the plastic bushing blew. I would like to thank Advance Adapters for their help and the opportunity to sample this kit. If anyone has any questions or comments please fell free to ask.

Advance Adapters

Awesome Job , thanks for the write up. We will keep you in mind for future JK products releases from Advance Adapters. Thanks again we hope y