orig93gt

For those of you who have been following one of my other threads; Advance Adapters gave me one of their upgraded transfer case cable kits. The AA kit replaces the entire linkage only retaining the stock shifter handle, pivot pin, and 4lo spring and bushing. The kit fits into the stock base without any modifications to the factory console, all the upgrades are done out of sight, for a clean look. To give you a run-down on the kit's components i"ll start at the top. The plastic bottom end of the shifter handle is replaced with a two piece metal base comprised of a machined billet block and a 1/4" thick coated steel plate to retain the 4lo spring and bushing. Gone are the plastic eye loops on the factory cable and of course with them went the infamous plastic retaining bushings. The AA cable has heim joints at each end which are secured with bolts and nylock nuts (are you taking notes on this Chrysler). The replacement cable itself is noticeably heavier than the factory unit and has a double layer of sheating in the area that passes through the floor board and runs alongside the tranny. The transfer case mounted actuator is also replaced with an equally stout 1/4" coated steel piece, this end is also secured with a bolt and nylock nut. In the posts to follow I will show pics of the install progression and share any tips I may have for each step.

JKU 4x4

Can't see the pics. :(

JKU 4x4

Ok can see them now. I was reading the thread where they were gonna give a few out free for write up purposes. Don't remember the price on this right now but think it was around $200 ?? Subscribed to see if it is worth the cash for it.

Kojack

Def worth the cash. This is on my to get list.

orig93gt

I installed this kit on a 2011 rubicon with an automatic, wether or not any of these steps would differ for other years or models i cant say for sure. The Advance Adapters kit states that on rubicon models the front yoke needs to be removed to acces the bolt securing the t-case acuator. Once I got under the jeep I quickly confirmed this, as there is only about a 3/8 " between the yoke and the bolt. To remove the t-case end of the front driveshaft use an 8mm socket on a small ratchet, these bolts are not on very tight, so the small 1/4" drive ratchet works perfect for the tight space. Seeing as there are only 4 bolt holding the DS to the front end, it is worth while to just remove it entirely and give yourself some room to work.

orig93gt

Once the driveshaft is off, put the t-case in 4lo, and using a breaker bar romove the yoke nut with a 1 1/4" socket

orig93gt

next using a gear puller, remove the front yoke, its a tight fit between the drivers foot well and the tranny, so use a puller just big enough to grab the yoke, any bigger and you'll be fighting for space. I used an 8" extension and a deep well socket so I could place the ratchet forward of the t-case skid.

orig93gt

with the front yoke removed the T-40 torx bit is readily accessible. you'll need a 2-3" extension to span from the outboard side of the yoke to the bolt. These are set with thread lock from the factory so be prepared for a little fight (not too bad), but make sure you have a quality torx bit, because cheap torx bits often twist and fail on thread locked bolts. The craftsman bit I used worked like a champ

orig93gt

my next step was to remove the stock cable. The plastic bushing abandons its post with a little pressure from a flat head screwdriver, and the cable is released by popping out the orange plastic clip holding it to the tranny mounted bracket, you can toss the clip, but this mounting location will be reused for the AA cable. With the cable and stock arm out of the way secure the new actuator arm to the t-case. Be sure the slot cut into the arm is orientated in the same manner as the stock unit (the AA instruction clearly illustrate the orientation).

orig93gt

Next I moved to the interior to tackle the upper end of the cable. The 4x4 shifter handle must be removed in order to pull off the lower center console. Your handle should already be in 4lo so the angle is just right to grab ahold of it and pull straight back, no twisting or wiggling, just a solid straight pull and its free. I dont know about previous years, as the interior changed, but on 2011s and probably 2012s, to release the lower center console, grab low on each side about where your shin would be when seated and pull straight up, you'll hear and feel the snap clips release. Pull the e-brake handle all the way up and work the console out from under it. The shifter base is now visible, and its curved cover must now be removed as well, this is accomplished by pulling up on each side by the four clips, or lightly prying at each with a flathead screw driver. As with the lower end of the cable, a lite pry on the backside of the cable retaining bushing will free the cable from the shifter.