Additional items needed with 35's
#1
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Additional items needed with 35's
I got a 2.5" readylift SST lift last month and now I am looking to go to 35's. The lift came with springs, bump stop extensions, shock extensions and new sway bar end links. I got right at 3" of lift since I don't have new bumpers.
It says it is designed for 35's but I want to make sure I don't need to price anything else out.
Going with the following:
Procomp la Paz series 29. 17x8.5, 5 on 5 bolt and 4.75 back spacing.
BFG T-A ko2 315/70/17. 34.4" tire
Smittybilt spare tire relo bracket and a 3rd brake light extension kit.
From what I have read the 4.75 back spacing should be fine and not rub but want to be sure.
Any additional parts for the suspension? Brake line extensions? Tail gate hinges? Etc?
No rock crawling, so no big flex happening, just going up local San Diego trails. 90% daily driver.
It says it is designed for 35's but I want to make sure I don't need to price anything else out.
Going with the following:
Procomp la Paz series 29. 17x8.5, 5 on 5 bolt and 4.75 back spacing.
BFG T-A ko2 315/70/17. 34.4" tire
Smittybilt spare tire relo bracket and a 3rd brake light extension kit.
From what I have read the 4.75 back spacing should be fine and not rub but want to be sure.
Any additional parts for the suspension? Brake line extensions? Tail gate hinges? Etc?
No rock crawling, so no big flex happening, just going up local San Diego trails. 90% daily driver.
#2
JK Super Freak
Some type of castor correction would greatly improve your ride . There are several ways to accomplish this. Relocation brackets, adjustable control arms, or shims. I went with relocation brackets because the ride is superior over control arms. Control arms don't lose and ground clearance which is big if you rock crawl. Shims are generally frowned upon.
re centering your rear axle with either a bracket or an adjustable track bar.
For your spare, you want to at least keep it from vibrating which can crack the spot welds on your tailgate. Simply slip some radiator hose(cut to length) OVER your existing isolators. I like the Teraflex hinge for it's ease of opening the tailgate.
Good Luck
re centering your rear axle with either a bracket or an adjustable track bar.
For your spare, you want to at least keep it from vibrating which can crack the spot welds on your tailgate. Simply slip some radiator hose(cut to length) OVER your existing isolators. I like the Teraflex hinge for it's ease of opening the tailgate.
Good Luck
#3
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Was thinking I may need to adjust with the additional height.
So if I add some AEV geo correction brackets and a JKS rear track bar relo bracket, it would help with handling and lining everything back up.
So if I add some AEV geo correction brackets and a JKS rear track bar relo bracket, it would help with handling and lining everything back up.
#4
Super Moderator
Need is all relative but doing little pieces as funds become available is the best way to prevent issues down the road. I'm on 35's with 2.5"- metalcloak rear tb relo bracket, front adjustable track bar, longer rear sway bar links, extended brake lines f&r, upgraded hinges/ carrier/ tailgate reinforcement, aev drop brackets, upgraded tie rod, upgraded drag link.
Mine is also a DD so the reliability in the steering and ride was paramount for me. Adding the longer links will put the sway bar back where it should be to get the stock anti-sway characteristics back. Steering is self-explanatory. The ride was fine without the aev brackets but adding them really changed the ride drastically, even at 2.5". The brake lines were one of those things that I got a good deal on stainless so added them but they're certainly not "needed" until you start articulating the axle.
Mine is also a DD so the reliability in the steering and ride was paramount for me. Adding the longer links will put the sway bar back where it should be to get the stock anti-sway characteristics back. Steering is self-explanatory. The ride was fine without the aev brackets but adding them really changed the ride drastically, even at 2.5". The brake lines were one of those things that I got a good deal on stainless so added them but they're certainly not "needed" until you start articulating the axle.
#5
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Thanks for the info. I figure if I am spending the $2k on wheels and tires an extra $200 on the correction and relo brackets is a no brainer if it helps.
I was concerned about stretching the brake lines too far and again if it's less than $100 and gives me piece of mind, I will look into those as well.
Trying to keep this round of upgrades around $2500, hoping I can get some credit or sell my Sahara wheels and tires to offset it a little.
Wasn't really planning on wheels and tires yet only 5k miles on them but when the wife says they look small with the new lift, it opened the door 😄
I was concerned about stretching the brake lines too far and again if it's less than $100 and gives me piece of mind, I will look into those as well.
Trying to keep this round of upgrades around $2500, hoping I can get some credit or sell my Sahara wheels and tires to offset it a little.
Wasn't really planning on wheels and tires yet only 5k miles on them but when the wife says they look small with the new lift, it opened the door 😄
#6
Super Moderator
Yes, the drop brackets make a ridiculous difference- most notably when you hit those holes in the road or expansion joints. It brings it closer to a 'stock' feel instead of being harsh.
Brake lines are one to watch. I found a stainless set for $40 new. Once I saw how well they fit for the rear (previously had rear drops), I ordered an extra set for the front. I haven't seen them at that price point for a name brand and DOT approved line since that point in time.
At this point with everything I've got, I don't see the need for any further suspension upgrades aside from maybe a nicer shock down the road. "High clearance" control arms would be nice but the price doesn't make sense for a vehicle that handles this well on the highway.
Brake lines are one to watch. I found a stainless set for $40 new. Once I saw how well they fit for the rear (previously had rear drops), I ordered an extra set for the front. I haven't seen them at that price point for a name brand and DOT approved line since that point in time.
At this point with everything I've got, I don't see the need for any further suspension upgrades aside from maybe a nicer shock down the road. "High clearance" control arms would be nice but the price doesn't make sense for a vehicle that handles this well on the highway.
#7
The Duelers on the Sahara for just the 5 tires alone, I believe I was able to get about $300 for them. There's several other vehicles that use them. I sold mine to a PT Cruiser owner. If you sell on Craigslist, I would add the following "hit" words:
"Mazda PT Cruiser Tahoe Avalanche Envoy Highlander CX-9 Traverse Mercedes ML350 Land Rover Discovery Sienna Silverado F150 Touareg Volkswagen Nissan Murano"
The Sahara wheels on the other hand are a different story. If you have the set with the ovals in them, you pretty much can't even give those away. If you have the 7-spoke version, you'll have better luck. I had the 7-spoke version painted gloss black and mounted with some larger KM2's. I had no problem selling those for $2k.
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#8
JK Enthusiast
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Location: Michigan
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I went with the rubicon express lift. I had to add front and rear adjustable track bars as even with the bracket my back was still off center about an inch. I put caster brackets on because it was recommended here. I also added brake line extension brackets and an exhaust spacer