Adding RK rear lower control arms......
06-08-2014, 12:01 PM
#11
JK Junkie
Also see how close to stock your RE uppers are. I think the RK rear uppers are already longer also. If the RE uppers are adjustable to stock length or below then I would suggest getting the RK lowers made for stock uppers. Then problems solved.
06-08-2014, 12:21 PM
#12
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they are adjustable to stock but i have a aftermarket driveshaft so stock length doesnt work, im going to go and put these things on and see what happens cause im guessing thats the only way ill find out haha
06-08-2014, 02:17 PM
#13
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Well I'm thinking I was panicking for no reason, my stock lowers are roughly 19.75 and the RK's are sitting at about 21 but have a ton of adjustment. Will get them down to about 20 and then just fine tune my uppers as I'm almost positive they still have some room to extend to keep pinion angle in check.
06-08-2014, 02:26 PM
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Well I'm thinking I was panicking for no reason, my stock lowers are roughly 19.75 and the RK's are sitting at about 21 but have a ton of adjustment. Will get them down to about 20 and then just fine tune my uppers as I'm almost positive they still have some room to extend to keep pinion angle in check.
06-08-2014, 03:08 PM
#15
I do have the 2.5" xfactor which might be why I don't have a lot of the issues. Check out the RK instructions for installing the lift. It tells you what size bit to use and what size self threading bolts to use. I used the 1" long ones and have no issues. Can find them at a fastenal.
However I do think you could use the stock hardware. Just drill the hole to fit the bolt and get new nuts for it. My frame has a square cutout in the side exposing the bolts and I think you could easily maneuver new nuts in there.
However I do think you could use the stock hardware. Just drill the hole to fit the bolt and get new nuts for it. My frame has a square cutout in the side exposing the bolts and I think you could easily maneuver new nuts in there.
You can re use the factory bolts but you will need new washers and nuts because the bracket thats already there can not be moved as its welded into place. I used the 3/8 thread former screws and they are snug in there. Later on down the road i might replace them like he did with a grade 8 bolt,nut, and washer set up. As he said the square cut out gives you plenty of room to work with. Ill snap a picture really quick and show ya. Just edit the post.
Guess now you can see how much of a crappy job i did with ensuring its lined up correctly haha. Although its not something im worried about because both brackets are still completely on the frame. I did it from center of eye hole to center of the other. Was this the right way to do it? Idk but i went with it and seems to be fine.
Directly from RK and their lift instructions:
(X-FACTOR/ 3.5” MAX TRAVEL) We require you to relocate the rear sway bar mounting brackets back one inch due to the axle being moved back one inch with the X-Factor kit. Unbolt the rear sway bar mounting brackets from the frame, measure one inch back from each mounting hole, mark and drill 4 new holes with a 5/16” drill bit. Using the (4) supplied 3/8 thread former screws remount the rear sway bar.
Note: Use WD-40 or lubricant on the supplied thread former screws to start them. This will make the process easier. Torque them down to 25 to 30 ft-lbs.
Last edited by mhockey9090; 06-08-2014 at 03:26 PM.