Accusump pre lube oil system for 3.8
#13
JK Newbie
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Location: Wesport, MA
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I think the issue was that the hydraulic lifters were bleeding down overnight while the Jeep sat. When the temperature dropped below 20F the oil couldn't get there as quickly and the lifters filled late. That was causing a tapping sound.
I have read some threads regarding filter drain back valves and I guess a bad filter could have a similar result.
Before I set this system up I tried a number of different filters (fram tg, Bosch, k&n, mopar), but none caused a change for me. That's why I decided to go with a pre-lube system. A little extra protection is icing on the cake.
I have read some threads regarding filter drain back valves and I guess a bad filter could have a similar result.
Before I set this system up I tried a number of different filters (fram tg, Bosch, k&n, mopar), but none caused a change for me. That's why I decided to go with a pre-lube system. A little extra protection is icing on the cake.
#14
I think the issue was that the hydraulic lifters were bleeding down overnight while the Jeep sat. When the temperature dropped below 20F the oil couldn't get there as quickly and the lifters filled late. That was causing a tapping sound.
I have read some threads regarding filter drain back valves and I guess a bad filter could have a similar result.
Before I set this system up I tried a number of different filters (fram tg, Bosch, k&n, mopar), but none caused a change for me. That's why I decided to go with a pre-lube system. A little extra protection is icing on the cake.
I have read some threads regarding filter drain back valves and I guess a bad filter could have a similar result.
Before I set this system up I tried a number of different filters (fram tg, Bosch, k&n, mopar), but none caused a change for me. That's why I decided to go with a pre-lube system. A little extra protection is icing on the cake.
#16
JK Super Freak
Pre-lube systems are great if you go for a few days without running your engine. they can definitely extend the life of your rod and main bearings along with cam and cam bearings. You have to look at the expected life of the engine and expected extended life and calculate a cost per mile value to see if it actually saves money though. If you change vehicles or the engine before you recover that value you may have been better off spending the money somewhere else.
Like I said I believe in them, but I think it is a better option/add on for a diesel engine you are expecting more than 350,000 to 400,000 between rebuilds or if you often let it sit for days before starting.
Like I said I believe in them, but I think it is a better option/add on for a diesel engine you are expecting more than 350,000 to 400,000 between rebuilds or if you often let it sit for days before starting.
#17
JK Enthusiast
Good job. One of two sure fire ways to beat the oil drain back problem. I looked at this solution also but couldn't decide where to put the pressure sump, so I used an electric pre-lube gear-pump. Your way is simpler! Whatever works is good.
#18
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Originally Posted by HankFard
Good job. One of two sure fire ways to beat the oil drain back problem. I looked at this solution also but couldn't decide where to put the pressure sump, so I used an electric pre-lube gear-pump. Your way is simpler! Whatever works is good.
#19
JK Enthusiast
I have not posted this much because it took some custom work to design the plumbing and mount the pump. But it was fun to do. Here's part of my post:
"This is a 12v marine gear pump designed for pumping lubricating oil. It has custom bits such as Earl's AN fittings and lines, a check valve, an oil filter sandwich, and a Fumoto F106 drain valve with a custom Tee from the sump. Everything can be unbolted and returned to stock in about 30 minutes. " I operate it from a remote attached to my ignition key.
My iPhone app doesn't let me attach a photo but I can send you photos later if you're interested.
Last edited by HankFard; 01-14-2013 at 05:44 PM.